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If cost is not an issue, you'll get quite a few good opinions here. I initially had used Fastrack but recently made the switch to Gargraves w/wood ties and Ross Custom switches. For me, it was the best decision I could have made. I would highly recommend both. You'll also get votes for Atlas and MTH Scaletrax, but both those are a little harder to come by (inventory seems to be low).
I would go with Gargraves track and Ross Custom switches. You will have less problems with this combination then any other track system.
Lionel's Fastrack is horrible! Lionel tubular switches made since 1994 are also horrible.
MTH's Realtrax and Scaletrax are both DUDS!!
Lee Fritz
Keying off of the phrase "to start with", I'd suggest Lionel FasTrack. It's an easy starting point and you'll most likely end up with some of it if you buy a RTR set. Long term, I concur that Gargraves track with Ross switches is hard to beat.
Gilly
A quick note about both Fastrack and Realtrax; you are limited by the size of the plastic pieces these systems use. Also cutting any plastic based system is not easy.
I used Fastrack once and almost threw the track away as it was a night-mere and a half to work with, also has bad electrical connectivity.
With scaletrax from what I read here on the forum the switches burn-out quickly.
Another thing is that Gargraves and Ross have more curve radius to choose from and more switch choices with Ross Custom switches then any other company, and you can custom fit the track very easy.
Lee Fritz
RoughRider1,
Lee 1st this all depends on how much realism and rivet counting you plan to due with your layout. It also depends on what trains you are planning to run, if you plan to get into Tin Plate, Conventional Tubular, FasTrack, Atlas Industrial Rail, RealTrax and RMT SS are definitely the way to go, these tracks will all run all the different Tin Plate trains. At one time Phillyreading had a point about FasTrack limiting your building due to the availability of certain small custom FasTrack pieces, now however with the advent of the Rockwell X2 portable table saw, you have the ability to make any custom
FasTrack piece you desire, in any length and any angle you might need. All my FasTrack and RealTrax has never had any conductivity problems and it works perfectly with both DCS & Legacy. The new FasTrack Command Control switches are completely wireless and controlled from either the Legacy Cab2 or the TMCC Cab1, IMO they are the best remote control switches on the market today, they work great!
PCRR/Dave
I've used FasTrack, tubular, and Atlas. I use FasTrack for the floor and one small layout. I've used tubular for another small layout. But the two major layouts I'll build will be with Atlas.
But in the end, this is a personal taste question, just like "What's your favorite pizza joint?" is. The only way you are going to get the best answer is to try out the different track systems and pick the one you like the best to work with, which a "cost is no issue" person can do.
Lee,
I agree with Sinclair on this, there is no real best kind of track, there is however a personal choice you will need to make, as to what you plan to run and how realistic you plan on making your layouts.
Have fun and welcome
PCRR/Dave
All the track systems available now are good systems. There are advantages and dis-advantages to all the track systems. Everyone here will have a different opinion on 'The Best' track system available. I have one too, but will leave it out of this post so you can choose. Only think I will say is if you are just starting out, the sectional track (as opposed to flex track) might be a better choice and less frustrating for you, depending on how mechanically inclined you are.
Track is really a personal preference, just like picking out your first Amtrak train set. I would suggest finding a train store, going to it and studying all the track available to see which one you like and will be comfortable using. I would not let the store employees influence your decision, take their advice, but make your own choice. If you don't have a train store you can visit, Trackwork for Toy Trains by Peter Riddle is a pretty good book explaining most of the different track systems available today. Track from RMT might be the only one missing? Been a while since I read the book and I think the book came before the RMT track?
I started with MTH Realtrax, then tried Lionel Fasttrack....finally settled on Atlas O. I wanted realism with real ballast so that meant (to me) either Gargraves or Atlas O. Settled on Atlas O and I have never regretted it. Just my opinion. The look of the track was what was important to me. All tracks have issues with conductivity if you read this Forum, so I went with what I thought looked the most real. Again, just my opinion.
The other thing I have found with Fastrack is that you must have a track plan and stick to it! Free lance design is almost impossible with Fastrack as the plastic base doesn't give and won't always line up correctly unless you use a pre-approved track plan.
I had to provide two power hookups for a 3 ft. by 9 ft layout of Fastrack.
That's been my experience with Fastrack.
Lee Fritz
What's the best track to start off with?
What size layout? Size is always a concern even if money isn't.
Are we talking a table in a bedroom? Or through the living room-kitchen-out the patio door (switch to GG stainless) past the BBQ once, around the yard, and into the garage stuff or what?
As Lee points out "plastic roadbed" has its limits in a way. And a different sound.
I see ties in cement when I look at it, unless lots of detailing in done to it.
(I like tubular & Super O looks best, nostagia)
GGrvs seems to be about the only company you can get non-roadbed track from right now. So if the track plan (do you have one?) is in place, and your ready to order......
A nickel/silver, or stainless grade might be more available from all, because its pricier. If you don't mind shiny rails, and cleaning track a bit less, its a good choice.
If you've got the bankroll, buy a starter set* &/or small loop, or two**, of what's out there that interests you. Used stuff is all over, and you can sell it one day, save it for younger company to occupy themselves with, give it to the neighbor kids to shut them up for a day. Or run on yourself while your choice track dream "dream" is being built/worked on.(a carpet layout will keep you from rushing things).
**Find out what the minimum turn size for your locomotive choices! Don't build too small a curve, for a long locomotive.
*Seldom do people only want one train. A cheap starter set isn't too much...
Waiting to buy your choice locomotive might not be wise if you have your heart set on a certain model.
Fastrack user here, and have never had an issue with it. However, my layout is (gasp) walked over regularly. It is tough enough for my extensive 200ft. carpet layout. I'd use Scaletrax or Atlas for a more permanent setup... but it would not survive for what I have now.
I've found it easy to work with and will adjust a few degrees on longer runs and wide curves. I have a power drop every 6-8 feet. Also, it is quieter once it settles into the carpet... LOL
RoughRider1,
As you can see opinions are like something else, everyone has one. Your best bet would be to read and read some more and come to your own conclusion. What's right for one person may not be right for you.
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