What size and type screws and drill bit to fasten down ROSS Track and ROSS Switches?

I use Atlas Track Screws and a 1/16" drill bit.  Never have a problem doing it this way.

Just a note. When fastening the DZ1000 switch machine down. Use a smaller profile head screw similar to what Allen is showing above than what is supplied. Otherwise, certain equipment with hit the head of the screw and derail.

Just to add to this topic, where do you get the small screws to fasten down the switch controllers and other items that need very small screws.  Thanks Tstark

I split some ties but it didn't have anything to do with screw size. I was using a powered driver to tighten the screws and didn't stop soon enough..1" Gargraves track screws and 5/64 bit through 1/2" Homasote and 1/2 plywood

I use what is called a "trim head" screw. get them at Home Depot. They are 1 5/8" long and have a very small beveled head and use a #1 square drive. I need these longer screws because they have to go through the 1/4" tie, the 1/2" roadbed, and into the 3/4" plywood. Unfortunately they only come in the one length that I've found. The nice part is the top of the head sits flush with the top of the tie. I use a combination pilot / countersink to drill the ties. Sorry to say, I don't think it's possible not to split some ties when building a layout. It's no big deal though.

1/8" drill and a #4 screw. Ross sells them in 250 count bags. Gargraves sells them, or you can probably just google #4 x whatever length screw and get back countless results. 

Just snug the track down, dont crank them super tight. 

For Ross Switches and Gargraves Track we use either Gargraves Track screws or an electric brad gun.

#4 X 5/8" or 3/4" flat head black.  The drill bit is as wide as the screw including threads so you don't split ties.   The screw head will hold down the track and you won't split ties unless you over screw, which you will at times.  You can buy them at any hardware store.    

Let's not forget:

1 - hardware stores - many screws

2 - black/dark paint on shiny screw heads, if you have those; countersink the heads

3 - your layout will not be in hurricane winds; don't use Big-Ol-Screws; in fact, hot glue works well

4 - if you don't screw your track down - into the layout wood top - the layout will be quieter (see "hot glue", above) - or - drywall screws (short ones; drywall screws have very deep, sharp threads) will typically hold track just fine in dense foam - and far less train noise will get to the wood - which is literally a sounding board

5 - the glue used in ballasting, if you do that, will contribute to track stability

6 - common sense

Hello,and thanks guys for all of the knowledge!!I was out today at Homo Depot and Lowe's and their selection is slim on #4 screws.I bought a package of #4-1/2 inch screws,but they are silver,which sucks.I can touch them up with Old English,furniture touchup,but I think I'll go further out of town tomorrow or just order some within the next day or two.I just bought the pack of silver ones to see how things are gonna work out.

The 1/2" screws might work after I counter sink them,my top boards on my layout are 3/16" so if they grab onto the top board I should be alright. I don't know if these are gonna grab good enough,but I'll give a couple of them a try,and if they don't work,I will try,try,try again!

Building the benchwork for this was one heck of an experience for me,since I have NO carpentry skills,and have never constructed anything out of wood in my life.It took me three times to realize that my roundhouse and turntable were not going to fit,I just don't have the room right now.So I've got a 10'X 20' rectangle,and it is finally starting to look like a layout. Thanks Again-KennyB

That hot glue idea sounds pretty good,but is it gonna stand up to those big ol'heavy prewar and postwar trains?I think I should give that a try! I Hate the thought of putting screws into that beautiful double crossover!!

Sears hardware has #4 screws. I buy 1" and 1.25" size. I countersink the ties and the DZ switch machines. 

Big layout equals many screws. If you have figured out the size, length and head type, your local Ace Hardware or similar, can order large quantities in bulk pack. Much cheaper than the smaller quantity pre-pack. The big stores have no procedure for this.

Pat Kn posted:

For Ross Switches and Gargraves Track we use either Gargraves Track screws or an electric brad gun.

D500 posted:

Let's not forget:

1 - hardware stores - many screws

2 - black/dark paint on shiny screw heads, if you have those; countersink the heads

3 - your layout will not be in hurricane winds; don't use Big-Ol-Screws; in fact, hot glue works well

4 - if you don't screw your track down - into the layout wood top - the layout will be quieter (see "hot glue", above) - or - drywall screws (short ones; drywall screws have very deep, sharp threads) will typically hold track just fine in dense foam - and far less train noise will get to the wood - which is literally a sounding board

5 - the glue used in ballasting, if you do that, will contribute to track stability

6 - common sense

Thank you for all the responses to Kenny's question!  

Having come from HO scale myself, I was first surprised to see that the normal method of fastening down O-Gauge track is with screws.  Having come to my senses, I finally thought, "and why not?"  I have also wondered if anyone uses brads or glue.  As Pat suggested, the club uses a brad gun, a lot quicker for a club layout.  

D500, I think all your points sound good.  In HO, the method I read about many places and used on plastic ties was to use HO track nails to hold down glued track until the glue sets good, then remove the nails.  Do you use any weight to hold the track down until the hot glue sets?  Of course that isn't very long at all.  I like the idea of not making a sounding board with screws into wood because I want to be able to hear the expensive sound systems in my locomotives.    I can't run my trains too loud, or the dog takes a fit.