What track to use with post war?

If you can afford them, Gargraves/ Ross would be the way to go. There is, of course, Lionel tubular,too. It will be cheaper, but it's still a good choice.  Never been to York, so can't say what deals may be available. As to software, since you want a program that has the accessories/buildings, I suggest RR-Track. It is expensive-- about $80, but it will do everything that you can envision. It takes time to learn all the ins and outs, so start with something easy-- like a simple oval. 

I run all my post war locos on Lionel tubular

O gauge track. works good and you can dress

it up if necessary by adding wood/rubber ties

under the rails. AND your magnatraction will stick like glue.

It is also heavy duty and will give years of service.

I think RR-Track has the best track and accessory libraries for track planning. It is a bit pricey and then you have to purchase some of the libraries separately in addition to the program itself.  SCARM is another one that is popular around here. It is free. It doesn't have as many track and accessory libraries available, but might be a good starting point for you. If it doesn't meet your needs, you can always switch to RR-Track or something else later.

I only have modern diesels and am using Atlas track. I am also a fan of Fastrack and I think it is a very nice track system. I am not as experienced with it, and don't know about the problem you are having. Maybe someone using Fastrack will be along that might have a solution for you with your problem engine. There are lots of folks here on the forum that are using Fastrack.

For prewar I think a lot of folks are also using the original Lionel O or O27 track. That might still be one of the most popular track systems out there. I think it is also the least expensive. Gargraves and Ross are good also and are magna traction compatible. I think both of those systems have pre-made curves and sections along with Gargraves flex track. There is MTH Realtrax also, I am not sure what the rails are made of though?

It all depends on what era/look you're wanting. If you have the room go with the original Lionel O-Gauge. You can use the original for almost anything and everything. If your trains are slipping?? Ease off on the throttle. Not every train is a bullet train. When you run your trains to fast it's going to be expensive. As they do not bounce when they hit the floor.

The reason train engines are slipping is because fastback rail height is too short and the wheels are hitting the rail bed.   I am wondering if the other track options have a higher rail height?

I use gargraves and all of my post war run very well.I use the black center rail and tin outside rails. I was told that magna-traction did not work on gargrave but that's not true.I have a GG1 and a FM that feel like they will pull the track off the roadbed even my steam run well.

rboatertoo  I believe it depends on how you wish to finish your layout.  If you want detailed scenery then you want to use Gargraves/Ross.  If you want the feel of a 50's layout from when we were all kids the tubular would be best.  I ave a decent sized mostly prewar layout and I wanted to build a toy train layout not a model railroad, so I used tubular track and am pleased.  I am planning an additional layout which will be hi-rail and for that I will use Gargraves/Ross

Al

I want to use gargaves and ross, but I want to make sure the height of the rail is as height as Lionel O guage so my prewar will work.  I am having problems finding the rail height for Ross and gargaves.  If some has postwar and maga trans and has been having no problems I would like your advice!!!

Thanks

Gargraves/Ross is 7/32" tie to railhead. Atlas O is also 7/32". Thats why so many people use Atlas track and Ross switches. The ties of Ross are .25" tall, Atlas is a smigen less(.245"). I don't have Lionel O tubular to measure.

If you decide to go with Gargraves contact them ahead of time that you'll be in York.  Typically you can work something out on track pricing if you're buying in bulk and have them bring it to the meet.  If nothing else you'll save on shipping which can be expensive in and of itself.  I was with a friend a few years ago that picked up a box of flex track at a 25% discount, no tax and no shipping.

Okay gargraves!  Now whats the diffencence between tinplate and stainless?   The layout will be in the attic above the garage so I am thinking I could get away with tinplate.  Will that be good for maga traction?

Stainless is probably not good with magna-traction. It's non-magnetic, at least the better grades are anyway. My refrigerator is supposed to be stainless steel, but magnets stick to it just fine. Either not stainless or a poor grade or just a thin coating with steel under it?

Use tinplate with magnatraction.  Stainless is meant for outside, as in a garden railroad setting.  I believe the ties are plastic with stainless versus wood with tin plate.  I would further suggest phantom tinplate which gives you a black center rail.  Unless you want the look of traditional tinplate tubular in which case get the traditional gargraves tinplate.  Hope this helps!