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I recently received some MEW replacement drive wheels that I'll need to install in a BAL motor, and wanted to hear people's thoughts on doing it properly.

 

For starters, given that all 4 drive wheels are being replaced, is it worth the trouble to reuse the original axles or should I just cough up a few more bucks for a fresh repro axle? Originality is not big deal for this particular piece, given the number of other bits being replaced already. If I do reuse the old axles, is there an easy way to get the old wheels off without damaging the axles?

 

As for actually getting the new wheels on, I gather there are several approaches with varying costs and precisions. It sounds like the cheapest, least precise approach is just to squish the wheels on in a vise (after checking bore/axle tolerances, of course). The issue there would be whether the vise will exert force perfectly square to the axle. Correct? Then the next step up would be an arbor press or the more specialized press system made by TTRP (which also does lots of other things). If one were to use a plain arbor press, is there some makeshift way to hold the wheels in place or do you really need one of those wheel cup installation tools?

 

Then there's the whole quartering issue, which I know I've read about but don't recall all the details of at the moment.

 

I've managed to survive without a vise so far, though it would have been useful from time to time. I'm sure that would be the cheapest option, but even a mediocre vise that's large enough to fit an axle won't be that cheap, and it's not the best tool for the job anyway. Perhaps I'd be better off investing in a more specialized setup if that would be easier and more effective? I'm not planning to go into the toy train repair business or anything like that, but I would still like to tackle the occasional restoration project in the future just for fun. Otherwise, I'd just have sent the whole engine to a professional to fix, as that would surely be cheaper and less time-consuming than acquiring the tooling and know-how to do it myself.

 

Thanks for any advice you can provide.

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The most difficult part of this is getting the new wheels straight on the axles. Also if you have a steam locomotive you will need to quarter the wheels so the siderods dont bind. A press will make this much much easier. It can be done with a vise but i would at least buy a wheel puller from Jeff Kane. The cheap ebay ones made out of battery clamp pullers do not work well.

 

  You will need a wheel puller as they probably will not go on straight the first time. I can survive without most of my tools but the wheel puller is not one of them!

 

  Good luck, just takes some patience to get it right, then it is easy!

I'd re use the axles since most likely, the bearings are in place. There are many ways to do this, none more correct than the others, it's just what works for you.

 

I use a drill press. I put the axle into the chuck and then put the wheel on the table and press it into the axle. If done right, everything should be square if done correctly.

 

I mark the axle where the eccentric is aligned, and then put a mark 90 degrees out from that on the opposite end. Put the second wheel on the table, and align the other end of the axle with the eccentric, and with the chuck fully closed, press down on the center of the wheel at the axle. This will drive the first wheel and axle assembly into the second wheel.

 

Repeat for the second axle, making sure that the eccentrics are aligned the same as the first axle.

 

Also, use masking tape to protect the wheel faces, and I use a penny on the center of the wheel as well.

 

This probably sounds confusing, but think it through and it should become clear. I've used it dozens of times on both O gauge and Standard gauge. It's also pretty easy.

 

I did recently buy the TTRP press, but have yet to get the wheel cups, which are supposed to make things very easy as far as keeping things square and getting the quartering right.

 

 

   If you are going to buy an arbor press spend the money and buy one made to do trains. Although the ttrp press is more expensive, it is machined to do trains and comes with tools. With the wheel cups this job takes about 10 minutes. There are quartering pins in the cups for steam locos. It costs a bit, but is the easiest way and you get it right every time. If you buy a generic press you will have to have it machined to accept the tools from ttrp and hobby horse. I know Vic who owns ttrp very well and he went to great lengths to put out a well engineered quality product.

I don't check this forum much but I have replaced the wheels on many engines including standard gauge, never heard of a "BAL" before. If it has spoked wheels a wheel puller may be of little use as the spoks will not take the strain. You will need to use a punch and a hammer. I normally use a pin punch in stead of a center punch, causes less damage to the end of the axle.

 

For putting the new wheels on an arbor press is best but only if you have the PROPER cups for the wheels. The cup must support the center of the wheel at the axle as well as keeping the wheel streight. If you do not have the correct cup an arbor press is a poor investment if you do not have the need. Just in case you have one, the next best thing is a lathe but very few have access to a metal one. The next step down the line is a good drill press that has a strong table that is square to the arbor. This will allow you to put pressure on the center of the wheel at the axle. At the bottom of the list is the vice. Use a good bench vice that has jaws that stay parallel to each other as pressure is applied. Use shims as necessary to insure that pressure is applied to the center of the wheel slightely more than the rims. What you are trying to do is not put pressure on the spokes of the wheel.

Good Luck,

Al

Like I said, I have the TTRP arbor press and tool set. It is well worth the expense. You buy it once, and find a lot of different uses for it. Some not train related.

 

I have the smaller one, which I bought because the larger one was out of stock at the time. It does about everything, but I think I may have liked the larger on better.

I purchased a similar arbor press from Harbor Freight Tools, years and year ago, I have, as someone mentioned above, used it for many different things.

 

When you press the wheels on, may sure that you apply pressure to the hub of the wheel, not to the circumference or tire.  The metal is fairly soft and you can deform the spokes if you are not careful (when I was first doing this, I converted one wheel to an umbrella shape, accidentally).  The axle will usually protrude slightly from the wheel hub-using a socket will help to allow the axle to protrude a bit when pressing the wheels on.

 

Pressing the wheel a bit, then rotating the wheel/axle assembly about a quarter turn and observing the results will help make sure the wheel is going on straight.

 

Not all repro wheel are created equal.  The O.D. of the wheel, the width of the tread, the diameter of the flange, is different, depending on the brand of the wheel.  It is a very good thing you are replacing all four.  The Bowser and MTH wheels seem to be the closest match to the originals, IMHO.  The flanges on McCoy wheels are deep enough that they bump the ties on Gargraves track, if you should happen to use it.  M.E.W.  wheels (from quite a while back) were a bit thick and caused issues on a 408E where the motors rotate in the frames (the wheels had to be turned in a lath to reduce their thickness or they rubbed the inside of the frame).

 

I have had to use shim washers in order to get the gauge set properly, on some wheels.  Standard Gauge is not all the critical, but it is nice to get it as close as possible.

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