Which switches to use?

The widest ones that you have room for- realizing that as the turns get wider, the length of the switch increases dramatically.  ( I used (on a similar small yard - Ross #4 switches, which are about 042.)

And I used Caboose Industries Operating Manual Ground Throws as manual switch stands- they look and work great.  If you are standing at the yard anyway- why run all that wiring?  Just throw them manually.

"curve those spurs back left"

That makes an "S" bend which most people avoid. I use O72 Fastrack track switches and avoid "S" curves and have zero derailments.

Like this:

Download some free track planning software (either SCARM or AnyRail) to test your ideas against the space you have using a variety of switches and track.  Both of these programs will let you use them for free up to a maximum of fifty pieces which should be more than enough for your purposes.

Two things to remember about yards.

1. You will want (and probably need) a run-around track (a double ended siding, either near to or in the yard) and a yard lead.  The former will allow you to push or pull cars into you yard tracks while allowing your mainline loco to go to the engine house.  The latter will allow you to shuffle cars in the yard (to "make" or "break" trains) without stopping mainline trains.  Of course, both are optional.

2. Most yards are built with a combination of right-hand and left-hand switches, and I would highly recommend using "numbered" switches (#4, #6, #8, etc.) if at all possible.  For example, in tight space situations, start with a right hand #4 switch, and at the end of the "turnout" part, not the straight thru part, place a #4 left hand switch.  You now have a 2-track yard as well as one "thru" track; just remember to add a curve track at the end of the last switch to have all yard tracks run parallel to your thru track.

Finally, if you want more than 2 tracks in the yard, just keep adding left handed switches to the ladder you're creating noting that each switch just adds one more track to the ladder.

Hope this helps.

Chuck

Don't forget to build a switching lead.

Yard tracks should not connect directly to the main line. That really hampers operation.

If using tubular track I would use post war O22 switches. The more modern switches by Lionel have many issues and I would avoid them at all costs. You can make a nice yard with O22. Also avoid S curves.

Dave

There are switches that build a yard,  without a lot of length.  This was done on a 6ft module.

Another project with a Curtis 4 way switch, a couple of 100 switches, and two double slips. All used switches and track pictured. Two additional 6 ft, track only, modules complete this storage yard area.  One way in, as Rich noted limited access, and uses. 

@Coca Cola guy Here is a picture of our industrial area that might give you an idea of what you are looking at. These are 022 Switches within an 031 oval.  The longest siding here is a little under 30 inches.

Keep in mind that the switch machine takes up room, whether you keep it on the siding side, or swap it to the non-siding side.  For me it worked out to keep them on the siding side as I needed spacing for the accessories anyway.  If you are trying to fit more sidings, you can move it to the opposite side if you are able.

Also, the 072 switch is longer (14.5inches on the straight section) compared to the 022 switch (10inches on straight section).  Theoretically, you would be able to get a longer siding if you used an 072 switch, but using the 072s will limit the number of sidings you can fit in a given space.

Lionel 022 switches, being discontinued will likely only be available used or "refurbished".  They will cost less than any company's new switches. 

You might be trying for a "traditional" look.   But if not- Ross Custom Switches' #4 RossPlate Tubular line will match up in height with regular tubular track O gauge (not O27) tubular.  The RossPlate line is catalogued with Z Stuff switch machines as 072, same as Lionel's switches.  They will be a lot more money- new plus they are just more expensive.  But you are doing this one time.

Ross switches for tubular track are shown only with the Z Stuff switch machines.  But by using a transition piece (sold by many including Lionel or Ross) you can use any Ross switch and many are available w/o switch machines at about $75 each. 

This all seems complicated to a newbie (as I was) but Steve is a big help if you call him.  But you are only doing this one time, might as well understand and consider all the options.