1033 transformer and modern trains

A 1033 will run just about any modern train except a few with their multiple smoke units. You will want to to add a TVS spike suppressor though when you run your Legacy engines.

Pete

What @Norton said. Don't fall for the myth of modern trains necessitating a modern transformer. All transformers and all trains should have appropriate over current and over voltage protections from strategic breakers/fuses and TVS diodes.

I'll have to disagree with Bmoran on this topic. I don't recommend a 1033 for modern trains for several reasons. When you blow the whistle, the engine will slow to almost a crawl, if not stopping. No bell control without a separate button. Circuit breaker issues. A 1033 transformer has the old thermo type breaker designed to protect the transformer core, not the trains. Opens way to slow for modern trains. You can use TVS diodes and such, but the hassle of wiring them in along with a bell button, you will still get better control with a NEW CW-80 or MTH Z1000. On the other hand, older trains like the 1033 over the modern electronic types.

For what the OP said he needs right now for his Christmas layout the 1033 is perfect.  He asked if down the road he could use it for Legacy.  Down the road he may change his mind.

John

@Chuck Sartor posted:

When you blow the whistle, the engine will slow to almost a crawl, if not stopping.

The 1033 is essentially equivalent to the CW-80 in output power, and unlike the CW-80 or Z1000, has a ~5VAC boost circuit to prevent the slowdown. Otherwise, there is a great lack of maintenance occurring that first needs to be addressed or all of the aforementioned transformers are undersized.

@Chuck Sartor posted:

No bell control without a separate button.

Correct, an external 6-5906 can be added if desired. Modern transformers do usually have this integrated.

@Chuck Sartor posted:

Circuit breaker issues. A 1033 transformer has the old thermo type breaker designed to protect the transformer core, not the trains. Opens way to slow for modern trains. You can use TVS diodes and such

Re-emphasis added:

@bmoran4 posted:

All transformers and all trains should have appropriate over current and over voltage protections from strategic breakers/fuses and TVS diodes.

In other words, proper circuit protection dialed to a layouts needs almost always goes beyond whatever internal protections a power source itself provides.

@Chuck Sartor posted:

older trains like the 1033 over the modern electronic types.

It sounds like you are referring to the pure vs modified/chopped sine waves of the delivered AC power. Anything will run very well off of the pure since wave such as a 1033. The modified/chopped such as the CW80, Z1000 - well, there are documented comparability problems.

Again, the 1033  can be a safe and quite adequate supplemental transformer for trains of all kinds, modern or not just as @Csxcellent has asked of it. Would it be my first/top recommendation? Probably not. Would a CW-80 or Z1000 suffice as well? Sure, but again not my first/top recommendation. I would lean into recommending a serviced ZW as at $125-150, it is the best bang for ones buck. Might be overkill now, but can supply more power than a PowerHouse to a Legacy system just fine.

Chuck, the 1033 does have a boost winding for the whistle. Two step lever. First step sends the DC offset down the track to trigger the whistle relay, second step engages the booster winding.

FWIW a 1033 was my only transformer up to about 5 years ago when I upgraded to a LW and now a Z4000. Ran my Vision 700E with it and a few other Legacy plus PS2 and PS3 engines. No problems using it along with my TMCC Lock On fast breaker and TVS.

I upgraded when I got my Vision Niagara and found it didn’t have enough reserve current for the tender water overflow effect. Other that it should work just fine for a small layout.

Pete

A 1033 would work for what you want to do, with the addition of a circuit breaker and tvs.  You don't have to settle for a 1033 though, I have seen used transformers of all types are reasonable prices, have seen even kw and zw for well under 100 bucks, you could possibly find a modern transformer like a z-1000 for relatively inexpensive cost. The other thing you have to be careful about (which others have mentioned) is if you are going with an older transformer, it may need work, unless you know it has been serviced things like the power chord, the rollers, the rectifiers in it might be old, and you might end up spending more money getting that fixed.

There has been some problem with engine compatibility with transformers that put out clipped sin wave, but I don't think you will have that problem.

Guys, it's not the boost voltage that is the issue. The electronic whistles need 1.5 volts to operate. when you move the whistle handle all the way, the DC voltage drops to .5 volt. Too low to operate modern whistles. If you operate the whistle only half way, The DC voltages between the transformer rectifier and the diodes in the electronic reverse unit buck each other and hence the near stall. Try operating a modern train with a older transformer and see what happens. Feel free to post a video! A 1033 will operate the train, just not very well.

Chuck, I just ran my 6-18056 scale Pullmor powered Hudson and 6 illuminated passenger cars with a 1033 on a 30+' loop of FasTrack and had no issues sounding the whistle. The 1033 has the original style rectifier disc.

Do you have a DC motor engine to try? The OP didn't state what specific engine he had.

I have a tiny docksider which has a can motor. Far from what I would consider objectionable with regards to the whistle/horn. But of course it just had to throw a traction tire. Now, I'll be the first to admit that I usually am running a bank of ZWs. They use the same rectifier disc setup as the 1033 and I don't recall ever having an issue triggering an electronic horn as long as there is enough current draw for a sufficient DC offset. Are you saying that there is something particular to the 1033?

Not a 1033 in particular, Any transformer with the rectifier disc.