2 Inch Foam (Blue Board) for Layout...

that's what i more or less did.  i used 1 x 4's and put supports across so that the 2" foam would "drop in" and be level with the frame.  i used the white board which isn't as dense as the blue board. i'm into the winter scene so that worked great.  i filled in cracks with duct tape and/or drywall mud.  i put them on old crappy tables that people have given me.  i've been using this for 3+ years now.  every time i change my layout, i mud over old holes and don't miss a beat.  mine is about 5' x 12'.  jeff

I don't know if this will help, but I've been using a 6x8 table comprised of a 1' grid of 1x3's supporting a 1" foam base with RealTrax for the past year and it works fairly well. I move it from the dining room to the garage and back once a year for the Holidays and it's light enough for me to move myself. However, it has no scenery and it can be noisy. Currently, the table is covered with a thin layer of quilt batting to simulate snow and my 34 structure Bedford Falls collection and assorted figures suffices for scenery. The simple addition of the batting reduced the noise from the RealTrax a lot.

My grid is 12" squares, not the standard 24" joists on 16" centers, but I have no reason to think 2" foam wouldn't hold with the standard configuration, unless you park a heavy PW loco for months where there is no support, if then. And, I'm quite sure adding a layer of roadbed, be it the Woodland Scenics stuff or cork, would do a lot more to reduce the noise than the batting does.

That said, I've decided against using foam for the base of my eventual garage layout even though I might move it to a bedroom in the future. The main reason is I've decided to go with a cookie-cutter style base and I don't think the 1" foam would hold up bridging the risers. The 2" would also affect my grades. 2" might work for you, but I'm also not happy with what I had to do to cut 1" holes for the light cords. Granted, I'm a novice, so I now know I used the wrong tools, techniques, etc. If this were a "real" layout, I'd have added a regular roadbed, cut the batting to fit around the track where I could lift it up to cut the holes and probably cut the plugs off the cords so just the wire had to go though the foam. I would have designed a decent junction box too rather than use a series of extension cords made for Christmas lights.

I do plan to configure my new layout in modules, but they will be smaller that 6x6. I think modules with using a standard 1x4 grid with 1/2" plywood and 1/2" sound deadening board will be light enough and quiet enough. Most scenery will be on pop out platforms to make things even more light. Like you I'm going for mobility, but I tend to side with others who say foam is for scenic elements, not a base.

Thanks for the replies guys.  I am still debating Fastrak or Tubular for the PW look I want.  Certainly Tubular would be most appropriate.  But I have seen photos of some nice PW style layouts using Fastrak.  For Tubular I would want to use plywood.

Anyone else have comment?

Thanks again.

Go to your local hobby store and roll some equipment on both tubular and Fastrack to see (hear) which you like best. Fastrack will give you scenic road bed instantly, tubular track will be cheaper, but you will need roadbed. Fastrack also offers handheld remote control of switches.

Fastrack will spread your engine weight for you as well. Tubular will not do that as well.

Gong with 12" grid for support even with 1 x 2" lumber should eliminate the sag issue.

BUT, Fastrack is NOISY and the type of foam you are using is not much good at damping sound.

Add a layer of Soundstop or Quietbrace under the track - Major Improvement.