6-38017 2-6-0 questions

Manual.

https://www.lionelsupport.com/...ents/73-8017-250.pdf

This engine has an Odyssey on/off switch. Make sure its on though I am not sure how well it works in conventional.

There are a number of ways to get 4 chuffs. I replace the two lobe cam with a 4 lobe. Searching the forum you will find other ways to do this.

Pete

Thanks for the link!!

I’ll have to look into the 4 lobe cam…

@Steaming Jon posted:

Thanks for the link!!

I’ll have to look into the 4 lobe cam…

You could also consider the Chuff-Generator.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

You could also consider the Chuff-Generator.

Your C-G is climbing to the top of the list… I want to get the Oddessey straightened out first before I go after the missing chuffs…

Odyssey I in conventional doesn't work all that well, never did.  If it runs properly in command with cruise, the Odyssey is working.  You can consider the ERR Cruise Commander M to replace the Odyssey DCDS.

Thanks for the help! Of course the manual says the Oddessey system provides consistent speeds regardless of load/grades/curves in command and conventional environments, but apparently that was a bit optimistic...

I'll have to decide if I want to go ahead with the upgrades... I have spent a considerable amount of money on trains recently, so it might be a while before I can justify replacing electronics that aren't broken... The chuff generator might get by the CFO, but the ERR board probably won't right now, especially since I'm on the hunt for a nice CN wood caboose (or one to re-letter) to match this engine...

Jon, have you tried the Odyssey switch in both positions? It should be pushed towards the front of the engine. The marking is a bit ambiguous as it can appear like Odyssey ON when it really says NO Odyssey.

I also recently acquired this same engine though its for another project, converting it to a Strasburg 2-6-0.

These are sweet runners with TMCC. Very well made. I used my last 4 lobe cam on it or I would have sent you one.

Pete

I did notice the ODY/NO ODY markings, it’s set to ODY. I didn’t try it the other way though… will give it a shot and see what happens…

It is a great runner aside from the speed fluctuations…

It does run slightly better with the switch set to “ODY”…

Any thoughts on improving signal reception?

I’ve found that this engine has issues with stalling, blinking headlight, and skipping chuffs that go away if I put a finger on the handrails (not a fun or easy way to run trains, and doesn’t work in tunnels, bridges or other inaccessible areas). This is at the club, so I’m not sure how much I can do on the layout side of things, so I’m wondering if there’s any tricks or mods I can apply to the engine?

@Steaming Jon posted:

Any thoughts on improving signal reception?

I’ve found that this engine has issues with stalling, blinking headlight, and skipping chuffs that go away if I put a finger on the handrails (not a fun or easy way to run trains, and doesn’t work in tunnels, bridges or other inaccessible areas). This is at the club, so I’m not sure how much I can do on the layout side of things, so I’m wondering if there’s any tricks or mods I can apply to the engine?

The handrails at both end fit into plastic insulating grommets. Make sure one hasn’t fallen out or the TMCC signal will short to ground. If all four are intact then maybe the antenna wire has somehow gotten disconnected from the radio board. Removing the shell on this engine is a delicate operation. Its pretty well packed in there, pay special attention to the headlight bulb are wires.

Pete

I’m not convinced that the engine actually has a problem, I think it’s more of an issue with dead spots on the club layout… it’s definitely tied to certain spots on the layout… I can’t make it to the work nights at the club due to scheduling conflicts so there’s not much I can do on that end…

Could I check for a short between the handrails and the shell with a multi-meter without disassembling the locomotive or do I need to unplug the antenna wire from the TMCC board to get a good reading?

You can check for a short without removing the shell but it should be obvious if a plastic grommet is missing from one of the handrail ends at the boiler or pilot.

Pete

I’ll give it a good visual inspection and hit it with the meter just to be sure…

I might prefer real coal loads…