Removing MTH Factory Lettering

I used Deluxe Materials, 'Strip Magic' to do the exact same thing, in my case re-lettering for Strasburg.  My local hobby shop had it in stock and recommended it, so went with it.  I have used brake fluid on some things.  Seems to be available at online hobby shops but not Amazon.

I start with a plain ol' pink eraser and then move to Testor's ELO (Easy Lift-Off).

Can't speak to MTH specifically, but a Q-tip in 91% isopropyl alcohol worked on some Lionel and K-Line pieces.

If you can find Un-Du at a craft store, Amazon or other reliable source, it will lift decals without damaging either plastic or the decals. It stinks but it incredibly effective. No residue is left behind. Closeout at Joann Fabrics is about $8 a bottle, Amazon is a little over $12.

Beware of resellers

The types of paints used varies between die cast & plastics. For die cast, I have been very successful using lacquer thinner on a q-tip. Just barely damp, and wipe numbers & letters away. Trick is do not get aggressive, and use it sparingly, changing the q-tip frequently to mop up the smears. Do not flood or puddle! ….after you’ve been successful, allow the area to “heal” for 24 hours.……I’ve never had any luck on plastics doing a successful letter & number wipe away, so I can’t speak on those materials. Try the suggestions above for plastics…..

Pat

For plastics. I’m not sure of any method that won’t involve touching up the painting if it’s pad printed lettering. The lettering seems to be imbedded in the paint. Really fine sandpaper and the use water. Like wet sanding an auto will work. Problem is any lettering that’s placed over or near a rivet will probably need to be touched up with the base color.
If you have a compressor. I’ve had good results using a Paasche air eraser and a very mild abrasive. Has the fine control of an airbrush and you can mask around around the area. It does make a mess but on most cars you can remove the lettering and leave the paint under it intact if your careful.  Will leave a dull finish which you maybe just be able to hit with some gloss and decal. The last thing you want is to apply heavy coats of paint to try and cover up what was there.

Thanks all for your replies. It appears there are several techniques to remove factory lettering except for those on painted plastic car bodies. I have on the shelf lacquer thinner, acetone, brake fluid & 90% alcohol to experiment with.  I am purchasing Micro Sol to try. Scratching the lettering with an eraser is a good idea, so I will do it. I will post the technique that works the best on my MTH trains.

Brass models I’ve changed numbers on need wet sanding & paint.  Then apply new.  

Zero success with methods mentioned above.

Hi Bobby,

If you are REALY  careful try GOOF OFF. It works good on most paints, but don't rub to hard with the Q-tip because, as you know if it takes off the top coat it is sure to take some of the bottom paint too. Test it out first.

Gene

I would strongly advise against using lacquer thinner on plastic!

For those using an air eraser, what grit do you use and where do you get it.  Can my LHS get it from most standard hobby suppliers?

I use the Paasche 240 grit. They also offer a 400 grit. It removes lettering with no damage to the plastic or underlying paint other than fading it a bit. I bought it for renumbering cars. But have used it to remove cars with minimal lettering for re paints. I’ve also used it to give brass some tooth prior to painting.

I purchased the air erasor from Amazon and it came with a small container of abrasive. When I ran out I purchased a 5 lb. container also from Amazon.

You folks should read this thread.  Good info with pics.

https://ogrforum.com/topic/upg...sconsin-and-southern

@Dave_C I had never heard of the air eraser until your post on this thread. I bought the same one you have. Wow. I used it for the first time today. I was able to remove the ACI labels from a car without removing the underlying car color, and the numbers from an MTH loco cab without damaging the paint underneath.

I also tried using it for paint removal on a brass tender. I learned it's not the right tool for that.

Thanks for the idea and information!