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The main enemy for most electronics is heat. Older 5V PS2 boards tend to run pretty warm anyway, and this can cause premature failures. Capacitor explosions and other burnout issues are common problems. This is perhaps not so much of a problem on a smaller home layout with short run sessions, but it can be a serious issue on a larger club or modular layout scenario, especially if you are pulling large consists for long sessions. So anything we can do to keep them cooler is liable to help with the longevity of these somewhat fragile boards.

To help with cooling I bought a 4-pack of small 25m x 7mm computer-type 5V cooling fans, cheap on Amazon. They are the perfect size to be mounted up under the roof of most any diesel, exhausting upwards through one of the roof cooling fan outlets, fittingly. They are only 7mm thick so they fit inside most any diesel shell, positioned right over the board stack to effectively draw cool air up through the boards. This is especially effective if the boards are vertically mounted. They glue up against the roof easily using something like Goo; a small dab on each of the 4 corners.

PS2-5V boards maintain the 5 volt regulator chip active and powered anytime there is track power present. The TO-220 device is remote mounted off the board, usually fastened with a machine screw to the engine frame for heat sinking. This makes it easily accessible for connection, and avoids any modification of the boards themselves. The supplied fan power wire comes with a JST-XH 2-pin female connector, which mates nicely with a pre-wired 2-pin XH header plug, for connection to the Vreg plug. It can also be re-wired with a JST micro 1.25 M/F pigtail which is more compact than the XH series. The connections are fan black to Vreg black, and fan red to Vreg yellow (not red).

The fan runs anytime there is track power, but power consumption is only 150 ma, so the load impact on the electronics is minimal. This can be handy if the engine is parked on live track after a running session; the fan will continue to run and cool things down. Make no mistake this little fan is not going to blow your hat off or anything. But within the confined space of an O scale engine it moves lots of air. The published sound level is only 26 db; almost unnoticeable.

Pretty easy mod and only takes about an hour to complete. The first one I did is a Premier F3 lead A unit. The shell internals are pretty crowded in F units with the 5V boards and a smoke unit stuffed in there. The fan is mounted under the twin screened louvres right behind the cab, which puts it conveniently right over the front end of the board stack. After 15-20 minutes run time you can definitely notice the warmer air being exhausted by the fan. And the plastic engine shell is noticeably cooler with the fan running. So far I've done two F3's and an SD-40; all PS2-5V and working fine. It’s a win for sure. Some installation pictures below:

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Rod

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Alan, John; your points are well taken and noted. There is no way that adding a fan will be the magic cure-all for older 5V boards! All I am trying to do is tip the odds, if ever so slightly. Preemptive if you will. What I know is hood units like F3/F7's with 5V boards seem to run noticeably warm, probably because there is limited open air space in those shells and lots of heat being generated. Things like E6/E8's, Dash 9's, SD-60/70/90's, not so much. There is acres of space in those longer shells and over-heating seems to be less of an issue as a result.

So my plan is to eventually add fan cooling to all the 5V F units on the roster. If none of them ever fails, there will be  no way to know if the additional cooling made any difference or not, but who cares? And certainly if/when they do fail with something more serious than a cap or fet problem, it's time to move on, as many here have said. That's a given.

Last edited by Rod Stewart

I did the same thing on a Kohs GG1 that had been retrofitted with PS3. The current draw was enough to occasionally cause a (fortunately) temporary stopping.  I mounted twin fans below the boards.  And like yours, my fans are on when track power is applied

Here is are some photos:

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Not only did this solve the problem, I now have bragging rights that my GG1 blowers are on all the time

A detailed thread can be found here:

https://ogrforum.com/topic/ps-...3#162757710114124463

Scroll  half way down on the second page untilyou get to my post beginning with the words "I eliminated the stop/start cycling of my dual Pittman driven Kohs GG1 by...

Note also I added cooling fins to the major heat producing components, and positioned the fans  sure they were in the airflow

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Last edited by John Sethian

I understand why a cooling fan can be needed. Other brands of decoders get hot when trying to handle higher powered G scale stuff. That's a reason I stayed with MTH in my stuff.

I have run in the hot summer outside with my G scale. I've never had a problem with overheating even in the sun. Maybe I've just been lucky. I do run extra engines on heavy trains.

I would think engines like the MTH G scale Triplex might have this issue. I haven't seen it personally.

So, I just wonder if it's needed in O scale very often? I can understand it when needed.

I remember some posts on a G scale forum about MTH changing a solid motor mount cover (GS4?) to allow for better cooling of the motors.

I would recommend in my limited experience, that any future installs like this by members to look at the 1 gauge board sets when a bigger current draw is expected.

I used one in a USA Trains SD70MAC for example. It draws some serious power under load. I've never had it kick out even in the summer.

This is a post in the above link by GGG about these 1 gauge boards:

MTH one scale that use larger motor have the rectifier heat sunk.  In addition, when they used PS-32 board they added brass heat sink to the motor fets.  PS-3 boards do a have a temp thermistor sensor that will kill power if temp gets too high and it is possible the Flash code may have a temp setting.

A lot of info to read above.  Are you saying this worked fine since 2019 and just started to act up?  If the engine stop but lights and sounds remain on, and you have control which I think you said you do, then the board still has power and I believe the motor fets are overheating, or some component related to motor operating.  That is shutting down the motor and you get the abrupt stop.  G

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Last edited by Engineer-Joe

I did the same thing on a Kohs GG1 that had been retrofitted with PS3. The current draw was enough to occasionally cause a (fortunately) temporary stopping.  I mounted twin fans below the boards.  And like yours, my fans are on when track power is applied







Not only did this solve the problem, I now have bragging rights that my GG1 blowers are on all the time

A detailed thread can be found here:

https://ogrforum.com/topic/ps-...3#162757710114124463

Scroll  half way down on the second page untilyou get to my post beginning with the words "I eliminated the stop/start cycling of my dual Pittman driven Kohs GG1 by...

Note also I added cooling fins to the major heat producing components, and positioned the fans  sure they were in the airflow

John, that’s a very comprehensive mod project. Nice work! I like the heatsink added to the bridge rectifier. Did you consider mounting the board stack on its side, so the air could easily flow up between the boards? It’s nice that the air is forced upwards from below.

One idea I considered was mounting a fan in an existing underslung fuel tank, using the speaker slots as air intake. This would work pretty well and you could fit a 40mm or maybe a 50mm fan. Often there are large openings in the frame plate right above the fuel tank, which would make for great airflow. Trouble is that in a powered unit you already have a speaker mounted in there! Darn.

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