Benchwork - Wiring - adding elevations

Sorry for being absent, been working on the lift bridge mounting base. The more I think I know in fusion360, the humbler it makes me. I have a quasi-parametric design for the hinge base of the bridge. It will put the track height at 4 inches. I wanted it to scale height wise and also allow different size "bricks"  to make the walls. I'm  happy with the look, and it appears I can change the height without breaking the design. However the brick work still needs some revising. I started the print, which will take 2 days and 22 hours to finish! OMG! So here is a fusion "pic" of what is printing as I am typing this post. I'll work on a couple of faux bolts to use as screw caps for the six mounting holes that are countersink for mounting the base to the table. I have at least until Sat. before the printer is free to print again... lol

Update - Have finished printing out and testing the hinge support for the lift bridge. Works well and now the task of cutting track rails at proper angle to allow bridge rails and track rails to have as small a gap as is possible. Also have printed and checked the landing pad of the bridge with guide pins. That also aligns well and I am awaiting the track support for that side of bridge to finish printing. (two day 6 hour print time) In the landing/alignment pin area, I have used stainless steel pins and allowed for a spring to be put in alignment pin receptacles allowing them to be wired, to be used as an electronic flag that the bridge is in place or not. Not sure what I'll do just yet but that is down the road.

Now to figure if I use cookie cutter and raise rail elevations or some other supports. If cutting the plywood/homosote base is the preferred direction, then the width of the road bed needs to be determined, and do I use both the plywood and homosote on the grade?  All suggestions are always appreciated. Thanks in advance. john

John, I'm glad the lift bridge hinge supports, etc are working out well.  I see that I read your last post, but forgot to comment that the support drawings look great!  My brain hasn't been working well lately.  I think I have a screw loose. 

I used plywood and Homasote on the grades and throughout except for a couple places I miscalculated and didn't have room to match the track heights up.  There I tapered the Homasote (not fun) to match up and I have one 2-foot stretch where it was easier to lay the track right on the plywood.  I'm not saying what I did was best, just saying that's what I did. 

@Mark Boyce posted:

John, I'm glad the lift bridge hinge supports, etc are working out well.  I see that I read your last post, but forgot to comment that the support drawings look great!  My brain hasn't been working well lately.  I think I have a screw loose. 

I used plywood and Homasote on the grades and throughout except for a couple places I miscalculated and didn't have room to match the track heights up.  There I tapered the Homasote (not fun) to match up and I have one 2-foot stretch where it was easier to lay the track right on the plywood.  I'm not saying what I did was best, just saying that's what I did. 

Good to know you used both where possible and adapting where needed. I can't imagine the snow storm that ensued tapering Homosote! wow wam! what a mess!

John, I’m still trying to recover! 😄

John, those sure look great, I am glad to hear things are moving along in the right direction. I am wondering where did you order or buy the brass pins and receivers for them?

@Richie C. posted:

Not over a river, but I used some pre-wired 12-18 volt (ac and dc compatible) led strips that I glued in place under a bridge to illuminate a hobo camp underneath. They already have the correct resistors on the strips. I ran the wires through the bridge piers to under the layout in order to hide them from view. Being 18acv compatible, you can connect them directly to track power, if needed.

You should be able to find some on the 'bay in a light range that is not too bright. If they turn out too bright after you get them, you can always paint the lights with Tamiya Clear Orange, which will tone them down substantially.

Your backdrop looks wonderful! You did a great job with it. If you're running wires for LED Lights with the resistor and they happen to have a red wire, you can hide your wires by running them through black heat shrink tubing and attaching them to other material with either black silicone sealer, hot glue, or for more permanent drops of super glue. I prefer the black silicone sealer as it's easily removable in the future. You can find rolls of the heat shrink tubing on the Bay, A**zon, or other foreign sites like Ali Express for example, cheaply in all kind of sizes.