Upgrading a 3rd Rail SD40-2 - Wisconsin & Southern

I was just waiting for somebody to have the stones to renumber a $780 engine and report back with the results. Since this worked out great for you I decided to renumber my Wheeling & Lake Erie #7011 to #7016 using the same method, except that I used Microscale Microsol and a cotton swab for the cab #s. There was some residue that I gently wiped away with a citrus cleaner degreaser. I'll run down to Hobby Lobby this week to get the eraser pencil to do the number boards.

Thanks for sharing this tip! I'm really satisfied with the results so far.

@catnap posted:

I was just waiting for somebody to have the stones to renumber a $780 engine and report back with the results. Since this worked out great for you I decided to renumber my Wheeling & Lake Erie #7011 to #7016 using the same method, except that I used Microscale Microsol and a cotton swab for the cab #s. There was some residue that I gently wiped away with a citrus cleaner degreaser. I'll run down to Hobby Lobby this week to get the eraser pencil to do the number boards.

Thanks for sharing this tip! I'm really satisfied with the results so far.

Be careful on the numberboards as they are just thin pieces of clear plastic that have been painted.  They will come loose if you rub too hard.  Not to worry though, clean the gasket area and then reattach.  I used IPA to clean around the back of the clear plastic numberboard and then the gasket around the numberboard housing before applying a couple dots of adhesive.

Great job, Mike! Looking forward to seeing the finished project!

@catnap posted:

I'll run down to Hobby Lobby this week to get the eraser pencil to do the number boards.

BTW, Hobby Lobby has these pencil erasers in 2-packs.

Looking forward to your progress Mike

Before and after…Thanks again for the tip.

Wow... While I do not have a 3rd Rail SD40 to renumber, I do have some other equipment I would like to try.  Thanks for sharing this method of re-numbering @Mike DeBerg.  I will try this method.

@catnap  So glad to hear you're having great results from this method.

So here are a few updated shots of the modified air reservoirs extended out away from the center of the frame.  While not perfectly to scale, using the original castings, this looks 1000% better.  At least you can see them

Thanks Mike!  Reusing the stock air reservoirs is great for those not wanting to color match factory paint, which is what I prefer to do with my Mopac SD40-2s.  I don't remember if we talked about this at STL RPM, but I'd also like to add deeper radiator grilles.  Jim suggested only printing the grille section as they could fit over the flat 3rd Rail detail slightly recessed within the existing mounting flanges and batten strip.  It would be less material to paint, and most of the grille would be weathered anyway.

The height is 1.1mm, which should work as the part made for my GP38-2s is 1.3mm including the mounting flange (based on Des Plaines Hobbies GP/SD38-2 screens).

I'd also like to improve the air filter grilles, but haven't drafted a replacement grille yet.

~Tim

Tim, yes we did.  There are certainly different phases and features on SD40-2s since they were produced for like 17-18 years and close to 4000 units.  Not sure if I have that correct, but I know it was a long time and a lot of units for the time.

Over those years I know the earlier units had more of a chicken wire radiator grill. open cage design which is closest to what 3rd rail did, IMO. While later units had the more corrugated style radiator grill with more depth and cooling efficiency.

Mike, thanks for the tip to remove cab #

@harley rider posted:

Mike, thanks for the tip to remove cab #

Let me know how the method works for you