Aesthetics of mixing FasTrack and Real Trax on the same layout

I found this in an older post, but it would be useful to see actual photos.

https://ogrforum.com/t...nd-fastrack-switches

I haven't seen it in person but I have seen pictures and I think it's fine if it represents 2 different railroads. For instance, the FasTrack could be NYC track and the Realtrax could be Erie track. I used FasTrack for my last layout. I have some Realtrax that I probably will use on my next layout for a separate line. 

I don't have any Realtrax switches so I don't know how good they are. I have seen layouts that use them so I would think they are OK.

Found this pic in another post:  https://ogrforum.com/t...onel-track-and-power

 O36 FasTrack and O31 RealTrax

How does the tie size and spacing scale out? I'm thinking the FasTrack ties look too narrow and too close.

PLCProf posted:

I am not big on Realtrax, I used it and tried very hard to like it, but eventually went to Fastrack.

Here's an idea, Fastrack O-60 22.5 degree curves intermixed with O-48 15 degree ones. Comes out to about O-56. Would be interesting to see if your loco would navigate the O-48 half-curves.

 

I've done similar with other diameter track but to make it larger than standard, not smaller.  I have several engines that require 054 minimum.  I will see if I can get my local dealer to setup an 048 loop to test with.  The engines that require 054 are MTH.  MTH doesn't offer 048.  I've successfully run engines that say 042 minimum on 036, so maybe I will get lucky and the 048 will suffice for the 054 minimum.  

Thanks for the idea and feedback!

Tony

Joe and Ace,

Thank you both for the replies.  Joe, that is something I hadn't thought of.  My holiday layout is typically PRR on the outside loop and Polar Express or some other Christmas themed railroad on the inner loop so your thought makes sense.

Ace, I don't think it looks great, but the angle of that photo is about worst case.  Angled from the side more and I don't think the difference will be as pronounced.

Thanks again!  I will post pictures of what I come up with.

Tony

I figured tie spacing from photos:

12 ties on RealTrax 10" straight (10" across 13 ties) is about 37" spacing for 1:48 scale
24 ties on a FasTrack 10" straight (10" across 25 ties) is about 19" spacing for 1:48 scale

19" spacing would be appropriate for American mainline practice, but I'm thinking a somewhat wider spacing with slightly wider ties might look better with the oversized rails. 37" spacing is definitely wide compared to prototype, but somehow it doesn't look so bad for 3-rail track (maybe because I use lots of old-style tubular track).

RealTrax has a solid T-rail profile that looks better. The black center rail is well camouflaged.
FasTrack has a modified tubular rail which joins with solid pins, maybe better connectivity.

I have done this long ago by using both of the MTH and Lionel Transition pieces which have their unique connection on one end and the typical pin connection on the other.  It worked great for a table layout.

However you mentioned a holiday layout.  It this going on carpet on the floor?  Do yourself a huge favor and stick with the fastrack for the carpet.  You will be very glad you did.  I'm not a Lionel guy, but the fastrack is the best stuff on carpet flooring.

Have Fun! Ron

I have both and aesthetically, I just don't feel they mix well at all.  I would follow the above suggestion and make one appear to be a more realistic RR for your T1, then have more of a "toy" feel for the Fastrack on the inside loop, Polar Express or even a Santa Claus or Christmas train.  What may look even better if you have a Tinplate for the inside. 

I do something similar where I have O72 for my Steam engine, and O60 for my tradition sized Christmas train.

Ron045 posted:

I have done this long ago by using both of the MTH and Lionel Transition pieces which have their unique connection on one end and the typical pin connection on the other.  It worked great for a table layout.

However you mentioned a holiday layout.  It this going on carpet on the floor?  Do yourself a huge favor and stick with the fastrack for the carpet.  You will be very glad you did.  I'm not a Lionel guy, but the fastrack is the best stuff on carpet flooring.

Have Fun! Ron

 

Ron, My holiday layout is built on a table, 5x8.  I use 4" styrofoam over 1/8" plywood for the base to lay track on.  It's not carpet, but you also can't anchor track to the styrofoam like you can with other materials.  I use 6d finish nails through the track to keep thinks from sliding around but that is nothing like screws.  Do you think Real Trax will deal with this?  

BTW, the 2 types of track will never be joined.  I just need the 054 diameter because that is the max I can get away with on my outside loop.  

Tony

Below is the last rendition.  I tried Gargraves track and while I like it, it's too much work for a holiday layout.

Ironhorseman posted:

I have both and aesthetically, I just don't feel they mix well at all.  I would follow the above suggestion and make one appear to be a more realistic RR for your T1, then have more of a "toy" feel for the Fastrack on the inside loop, Polar Express or even a Santa Claus or Christmas train.  What may look even better if you have a Tinplate for the inside. 

I do something similar where I have O72 for my Steam engine, and O60 for my tradition sized Christmas train.

Thanks for the input.  I don't think I will go the tinplate rout simply because what I have would require a fair amount of reconditioning or I'd have to buy new.  If I go the new route I will just purchase some 042 Real Trax for the inside loop and be done with it.  My thought here was to not spend any money on the second loop as I have plenty of FasTrack.  

072 and 060 on your holiday layout?  That's a nice problem to have :-).

Tony_V posted:

I am looking for opinions on mixing FasTrack and Real Trax on the same layout.  I am rebuilding my holiday layout and can at most fit an 054 loop in the area I have (I have am MTH T1 that requires 054 min).  I have quite a bit of FasTrack 036 and I was thinking I could use Real Trax for the 054 outer loop and the FasTrack 036 on the inner loop to save a few bucks.  I am just wondering if anyone has ever done this and if so how does it look?

I've never used Real Trax either.  Are there any pitfalls to watch out for?  The 054 loop design will also have 1 switch for a siding.  Are the Real Trax switches reliable?

Tony

I don't think it the mixing is a visual problem for a holiday layout.

RealTrax has a trick that you must learn to connect them. The problem is when you try to close loop, the last piece.

You need two lock-ons, one on each side of RealTrax, to get both outside rails connected to common. The Lock-Ons have big ugly lights . One has to solder leads to wire for power without using the Lock-Ons.

The switches are annoying the way that they are wired for non-derail and the fact that they have power hog motors that attach to the sides like the big ugly lock-ons. They should be powered separately from the track transformer or on a fixed AC port.

I recommend building the O54 loop in MTH ScaleTrax. It's in stock, at least for now, at most MTH retailers. You may want some cork or vinyl roadbed also.

You need two lock-ons, one on each side of RealTrax, to get both outside rails connected to common.

Moonman posted:

Tony_V posted:

I am looking for opinions on mixing FasTrack and Real Trax on the same layout.  I am rebuilding my holiday layout and can at most fit an 054 loop in the area I have (I have am MTH T1 that requires 054 min).  I have quite a bit of FasTrack 036 and I was thinking I could use Real Trax for the 054 outer loop and the FasTrack 036 on the inner loop to save a few bucks.  I am just wondering if anyone has ever done this and if so how does it look?

I've never used Real Trax either.  Are there any pitfalls to watch out for?  The 054 loop design will also have 1 switch for a siding.  Are the Real Trax switches reliable?

Tony

I don't think it the mixing is a visual problem for a holiday layout.

RealTrax has a trick that you must learn to connect them. The problem is when you try to close loop, the last piece.

You need two lock-ons, one on each side of RealTrax, to get both outside rails connected to common. The Lock-Ons have big ugly lights . One has to solder leads to wire for power without using the Lock-Ons.

The switches are annoying the way that they are wired for non-derail and the fact that they have power hog motors that attach to the sides like the big ugly lock-ons. They should be powered separately from the track transformer or on a fixed AC port.

I recommend building the O54 loop in MTH ScaleTrax. It's in stock, at least for now, at most MTH retailers. You may want some cork or vinyl roadbed also.

 

I had Realtrax and the locking connected both outside rails.  Has something changed?  I screwed mine into 1 inch foam to make it secure enough but easily remove.

I have and use Scaletrax for my permanent layout.   DO NOT USE SCALETRAX ON A TEMPORARY LAYOUT!!!   It does not come apart and go back together well on a continuous basis.  You will not be happy with it over time.

Ron