American Flyer engine Sparking to much

If it's Gargraves tinplate make sure the rails are clean. Critical to keep the tender pickup wheels and if equipped with sliders clean as possible.

Rich

I am making the assumption you are running Gilbert post war engines. If you have a steam engine (other than a Docksider), the engine should never spark at the wheels since all power pickup is in the tender. If the tender has 4 wheel trucks cleaning the pickup wheels (and track) should eliminate the sparking. If the tender has 6 wheel trucks it is possible the axle holes in the sideframes are worn and the truck frame is dragging on the rails. If so, take out the wheels, bend down the copper axle wipers to increase the tension, then reinstall the wheels. This usually works as a temporary fix. If the engine drivers spark then a tire has come loose at the whitewall insulator. Reattach it with a drop of superglue.

If you are running a diesel then a careful cleaning of the wheels (and sliding pickups if present) should eliminate all sparking. All engines will spark if the track is not clean.

Yes their all Gilbert S Gauge trains, I did clean them tonight and it's better. So would original Gilbert track work better?

Tin 

It has been some time since I used GarGraves flex track. It was not more prone to sparking than the Gilbert track. I have not used either GarGraves sectional track or their stainless steel rail track so I cannot comment on those products. 

The Gargraves track that I have see, I do have some on my layout does not have the flat top on the rails as does the Gilbert track. I don't know if that would make for any more sparking or not. It is not unusual to have some sparks but they should be almost not perceptible.

Ray

I've had Gargraves stainless and never had sparking. Gargraves steel is similar to original Gilbert and will spark if not clean.

Rich

Hi Folks,

I have used Rail Zip to eliminate tender wheel sparking on my S gauge track:

http://www.supergluecorp.com/?q=zap/zap-rail-zip

I apply it sparingly with a q-tip, let it sit on the rails overnight, then wipe it off with a piece of old t-shirt.  I also use it on the metal tender wheels and axles.  It hasn't hurt the plastic wheels, either.

Hope this helps!

Take care, Joe.

P.S.  It also reduces sparking on worn tinplating (3 rail O gauge track) and improves conductivity.   J.

Joe, thanks for posting, I had forgotten about this product. I also want to try it on the sectional track pins in place of the electrically conductive grease I am using. 

Have you used it on NS rail such as SHS track or just the Gilbert track. If so how did it work and how long between applications? 

Hi Tom,

I have used the Rail Zip on original Gilbert, new S gauge track (same look, size, etc.), and 3 rail tinplate, but others have used it on nickel-silver HO track.  I'd say you can go several months before re-applying.  But I'd work on the tender wheels first, let the product sit overnight, then hit the wheels lightly with a little piece of Scotch-Bright pad if there are any rough spots.  Remember, and there will be a difference of opinion here, Scotch-Bright pads are abrasive and I never use them for regular cleaning, only to remove stubborn  rust.  The naphtha in the Rail Zip is a great cleaner and should penetrate any dirt. 

Without the Rail Zip, my AF e-unit would need to be locked into the forward position for the train to make it around the layout.

Good Luck!

Take care, Joe.

I remember cleaning the driver wheels on my Northern excessively and come to find out they were insulated and not supposed to pick up power.  Only the tenders on some steam engines have eletrical pick up.

There is no problem using ScotchBrite pads on Gilbert track. It is an unplated steel alloy so the rails will not be damaged.

The GarGraves rail is formed from slightly thinner steel and the profile is not the same as Gilbert track. GarGraves has a more rounded top. There is no operating difference with PullMor engines but the link coupler engines without PullMor had less traction on grades on my layout. 

To keep track clean it is better to clean all the car wheels, not just pickup wheels. A consist with dirty plastic wheels seems to redeposit the dirt on the track. The best way I have to clean all these wheels is to couple in a Centerline track cleaning car for multiple laps around the layout. 

Hi Tom,

Actually, any cleaning method that is abrasive will cause fine scratches that collect dirt and invites oxidation.  I was warned off of using anything like a "bright boy" or Scotch-Bright on any track, solid or plated.  But everyone has their own opinions.  I know from personal experience that a solvent, like 91% isopropyl  alcohol, is best for cleaning non-problematic track and wheels.  The Rail Zip seems to leave a film that prevents oxidation with these temperamental situations.  I don't want to start a debate, but I am only saying what I recommend, and I always err on the side of caution.  When I have to clean heavy gunk off of metal wheels, I use a plastic fast-food knife, never a metal knife or screwdriver, or anything metal or abrasive, because they cause the fine scratches. 

Take care, Joe.

I have the same problem with my 322 Hudson,,,the tires on the wheels can be loose,,,has nothing to do with the track,,,,,pat at patricks trains told me bout this,,,think he used some super glue on the tires,,,,never did it again,,,,hope this might help ,terry

Joe, your comments on the ScotchBrite are of course correct, I was just commenting that Flyer track has no plating that can be damaged or removed. I clean my track and pickup wheels with electrical contact cleaner on a cloth. This also works well on the SHS rails. I am anxious to try the Rail Zip. Your comments on the affect of fine scratches is mindful of a series of posts about burnishing rail heads. Those who were able to burnish the rail reported better electrical contact and a much longer interval between cleanings.