Application of ballast

First, I put the respective liquids in a medium size squeeze bottle. I think this is faster and easier to apply than with eye droppers and way more easier to control than a spray bottle. I personally use 50/50 isopropyl alcohol (although many swear by "wet water" like you're using which of course is also cheaper). I then use diluted Elmer's glue (approx. 3:1). IMO, the squeeze bottles let really let you soak the ballast fast without getting it all over the tracks. The next a.m. everything is dry and rock hard. I do wipe the track after application with a blue work paper towel wrapping it around my finger and running it a couple of times along the newly ballasted section. I'd estimate that the whole process for an 18" - 24" section can be done in about 10-12 minutes. I run two rail which may be a little easier (one less track, of course), but it's probably all about the same. BTW, after application of ballast with a small/medium size measuring spoon, I use a 1/4" - 3/8" brush to remove all unnecessary ballast before applying the liquids. 

If you're having drying problems, maybe you're not applying enough glue solution and the glue isn't getting all the way through the ballast to the bottom. For what it's worth, you can get Elmer's in a gallon jug for less than $20 online and diluting it makes it incredibly inexpensive to use. Works like a charm. Hope this helps.

I found for whatever reason the wet water didn't work well for me. I used 90% isopropyl alcohol first, then followed with Elmers Glue diluted 50/50 with water. Drying can sometimes take up to 24 hours, but is usually completely hardened overnight. I used a small Elmers Glue bottle to dribble on the alcohol, with the cap only partially unscrewed. Immediately after applying the glue, I wiped down the three rails.

The ballast looked a little light to me, so I added a wash of diluted India Ink.

I have success using wet water sprayed on the ballast, track and all. I then use a 50/50 glue and water mix applying it by squirting with a turkey baster. I then clean the top surface of the track. It may take two days to harden completely. 

Rick

Our tried and true method for both HO and O Scale track & ballast applications:

1) First apply a layer of cheap dried sandbox sand. This saves  a LOT of money on expensive ballast, no mater WHAT brand you use.

2) Spread enough actual ballast to cover the sandbox sand, and make it look EXACTLY as you want it to look when glued.

3) Using pipettes, moisten good sized areas with the cheapest alcohol you can find.

4) Using Matte Medium, diluted with warm water to about the consistency of whole milk, again using the pipettes, carefully flood the ballast areas that you moistened with the alcohol.

In about a day, the Matte Medium will be set (it never actually gets 'hard' like Elmer's glue) and appears dull, like there really is no glue there. Matte Medium also tends to add some sound deadening to your track. Should any touch-up be necessary, simply re-moisten the small area with alcohol, and then apply more diluted Matte Medium.

Our whole layout, ballast and scenery, is done using this method.

Water and Isopropyl with some india ink to give it some character in a spray bottle first (after carefully apply ballast and using a soft brush to shape the pile), then use straight W-S Ballast Cement in a squeeze bottle. Before cement dries, go over track running surfaces with a soft rag (old t-shirt) to remove any glue residue before it dries. It's takes overnight to cure. Don't move anything until it does. I use roofing granules. Cheap! 50 pounds for 20 bucks. It's slightly magnetic SO DON'T USE IT WITH ANYTHING WITH MAGNA-TRACTION. 

For my ballast and scenery I take a bottle of water and add dawn to it. I have been using a bottle of Elmer's glue for years that has a screw tip that tapers to a point. It has worked for me for a long time. By turning the cap I can get the flow I want. I used to do a 50/50 mix but lately I have been leaning to more water and less glue. Like a 60/40 mix now. It seems to work just fine. I also use Brummys rubber ballast for my track figuring rubber would not damage gears if accidentally getting into them. I'll try to post a pic of the bottle I use..............Paul

3) Using pipettes....

Like these,

Here is a pic of what I was talking about. The one on the left is what I have been buying at Home Depot. The one on the right is what I bought many years ago. It gives me the ability to do drops or a small steady stream. I probably try looking at different stores to see if they may have the older top on the glue..............Paul

Lots of water being poured.

If your Gargraves is not stainless steel, but tinplated steel, I'd be concerned about.....rusty rails.  ....For which a quick andthorough drying of the water-based processes in bonding ballast would be prudent.....IMHO.   It's one of the issues where HO experience....involving typically nickel-silver rail, not plated steel...would not be a predictor of results.....long term, especially.  Water soaking into those soft wood ties would add to the concern of residual moisture causing future dismay.....IMHO, again.  I know that excessive basement humidity, alone, has caused similar problems on unused/stored Gargraves..........School of Hard Knocks graduate, here.

I know, I know.....I'm just being paranoid.....everyone does it this way....'No problems, Joe!'.   Right.

So, I have to ask...will this be a permanent layout, or seasonal?  If permanent, of what value is gravity, alone?  IOW, why bond it at all?  The 1:1 railroads don't bond theirs.  If vibrations and other extraneous agitations occasionally cause some wandering stones, do as the 1:1's do.....re-dress the ballast....in this case with a soft bristle brush, maybe?  Besides eliminating rusty rail concerns, should the re-routing of right-of-ways be necessary in the future, the ballast can be recovered, the track/ties will not have bonded crud attached and be ready for re-use, etc., etc., etc.. 

Of course, if you have a track maintenance crew consisting of one or more felines in search of litter-like material in which to relieve, this might not be a prudent choice.   And Gargraves stainless steel rails with plastic (non-absorbent) ties is premium-priced, I do believe.

BTW...I also have used Gargraves track and Ross Custom switches throughout on my layout.   All trackwork is laid on cork roadbed having a beveled edge.  No, I haven't reached the ballasting stage of my layout construction, yet.   For me it will be the last thing I do because it will not be bonded anywhere it is in contact with the track.  The ballast will, however, be bonded to the beveled edge of the cork roadbed, ONLY.  This will also serve to 'contain' the loose ballast between and surrounding the ties.  This bonding step will simply be using a 3/8"-wide flat bristle brush to paint a coat of glue to the cork bevel, sprinkling a generous covering of ballast over the wet glue, letting it dry undisturbed, and recovering the loose remainder for further use. 

Ballasting around switches can also be tricky.  You really don't want any bonding...or ballast, for that matter....getting into the moving points and throw rod channel.   Another reason to avoid bonding around track.

So, it's just a different perspective on this O3R railroady step.   Not for everyone.  Works for me, though.  FWIW, always.

KD