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Last month I posted photos of the MTH station I modified to serve the junction town of Tyrone, PA.     I have a variety of ready made,  kit, and  scratch built structures ready to use in the town.   With the station done and the street & building sites set its time to get on with construction of the town. Below are several photos of the town site.   

 

 

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Tyrone is located on the end of a layout lobe at the entrance to the room and can be viewed from three sides (no cheating on the backside of the buildings).  The major construction challenge is that main street down the center of town  is largely beyond arms reach.  Anticipating this I built the benchwork  strong enough for me to kneel or stand on when necessary.   When laying out the street and building site plan I spent quite a bit of time up on the layout - using kneelers it wasn't too bad.   My approach to building the town will be to fully install and detail the streets (while kneeling), and then later slide sidewalk/building modules  against the streets working from far to near.

For ideas and inspiration I began by reviewing OGR Forum posts related to modelling streets and sidewalks - very helpful.  For sidewalk and a stable base for the structures I plan to use 1/2" MDF.  To achieve 6" high sidewalks I'll use 3/8" hardboard for the streets.  The hardboard will be glued down with yellow carpenter's glue and sealed with spray primer.  Following Tom Yorke's approach for modelling asphalt streets I'll spray paint them using Krylon stone gray for texture, and and then brush painted, striped, and weathered/. The structure/sidewalk modules will be detailed off the layout on 1/2" MDF modules of various lengths up to 30" long.  As others have recommended, for a uniform look I'll remove any existing sidewalk on ready built structures (like the MTH bank).   To accommodate building/street lighting wiring plugs, holes will need to be cut through the 3/4" plywood layout top in alignment with similar holes in the base of the modules.   The modules will be screwed in place from below the layout.  To avoid unsightly cracks between modules I plan to fabricate and test fit all the module bases before detailing the sidewalks and mounting the buildings.  In modelling concrete sidewalks I plan to follow Clifford's approach starting with Rustoleum Sand Texture spray on the MDF.  One intriguing idea a woodworking friend  proposed is to under cut the sidewalk edge of the MDF with a router so that it slightly overrides the hardboard street.  The advantage being that the radius of the street corner cut won't have to perfectly match that of the sidewalks and the sidewalk will tightly fit to the road surface.  Before committing to this approach I'll do some tests with scrap pieces of hardboard and MDF as it impacts the width of the street.  

Question about hardboard -  for maximum stability should I use tempered or non-tempered hardboard (smooth on both sides or rough on one side) for the streets??

That's the outline of my proposed approach - before I start construction your comments/suggestions are welcome.

 

 

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Last edited by Keystoned Ed
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Ed

This sounds like a good plan. Let us know how it goes.  I definitely like the idea of building it on the bench first.  My only comment is I would consider an alternate approach and make the sidewalks from 1/8" MDF, and make the streets as wide as the roadway plus the sidewalks plus the building base.   Glue the sidewalks on the streets after painting both.  Then glue the structures on that.   The building wiring bus can be two strips of copper tape stuck to the underside.  That way you don't have to align anything, and you can make slight adjustments if you need to.

Your way may work out better, but I'd experiment with both.  

I get my 1/8" masonite/hardboard mostly from Home Depot in handy panel (2'X4') form. They used to carry it smooth on both sides, but now seem to have the stuff that has one smooth side and one rough/perforated side. Either style works, seems to be just as stable, and takes to the same cutting methods. Menard's carries hardboard handy panels that are smooth on both sides, but seems to be a little more brittle than the stuff HD carried a few years ago.

Here are some concrete streets and sidewalks I did recently. I now mostly stack 1/8" hardboard instead of using different thicknesses. Sorry for the awful image quality.

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Norm - your streets and sidewalks look fantastic -  hope my results come close to yours.

PRRHOESESHOECURVE - while a trolley down main street would be interesting, I'll use the excuse that Tyrone didn't have on in the 1950's (but Altoona did!)

Norm - If I had another 100 square feet (and a longer expected life span) modelling the Tyrone's paper mill would be neat - but then I'd have to generate that pungent paper mill odor)

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