Converting from Lionel O-72 Switches to RCS O-72

I run Ross turnouts and either ground throws or Tortoise switch machines so I can’t really comment on DZ switch machines. As far as your O72 turnout. Ross also has a Tinplate line that has an 072. The rail profile will match your Lionel track. A friend use to run exclusively standard Ross turnouts with traditional Lionel 072 track. It worked flawlessly. But you had to shim the Ross turnouts to match the height of the Lionel track and use a transition pin. The Tinplate switches I assume will mate perfectly.

The shim height to use under a standard Ross switch is Midwest Cork O scale roadbed.  It comes in a 072 switch footprint.

The tinplate switch is the same dimensions as the lionel one and will drop in place with no mods.

@Darrell posted:

The tinplate switch is the same dimensions as the lionel one and will drop in place with no mods.

Fantastic! Will it need the transition pins?

No, it is in fact tubular just like the lionel track.

I recently installed some and they are flawless. I did have to cut some of the tubular track to fit.

In final testing my layout with the modern Lionel O72 switches, my 783 Hudson would jump going through the switch from time to time.  Enough that about one out of 5 times it would derail the rear truck.  Switched them out with a 711 prewar set I had using Postwar O22 motors and the 783 is running through the 711 switches with no derailing, even with many years of wear on them.  They are still noisy, but no jumping.    I agree, the modern Lionel O72 may not work out of the box.

I think the Ross RTP125 looks great.  The DZ1000 or 2500 is a much simpler switch motor to work with than the Postwar Lionel.

This is the 711 in the straight position, notice the outside rail.  It is strong with a short, small indent.

Looking at the modern variant, the indent is deep and long.  The cut weakens the rail.  Mine would flex outward with a little pressure.  It even buckled there during assembly pressing in the pins.  I had to open it and reset the flange holding the track in place.   I am thinking  the heavy drive wheels would drop in the cut when it flexed and then bump back up to regular height causing the problem.  Maybe putting a shim between the straight side rail and the nameplate would help.   The other side or curve rail should be stronger with the bend in it.   Also the track "height" through the switch is much deeper on the 711.  Prewar engines should not have a problem.   The 5165 is closer to O27 depth in places.

Time to update my switch notes.   

I have my 783 50 times or more throught the 2 prewar switches and no derail.   It is cranked up to high speed for the 783.   The 783 did more than 30 laps running the engine and tender backwards around the track without derailing. 

I have all Ross switches with Z-Stuff DZ-2500 switch motors. They work great and reliable. All are also non- derailing.

My experience echoes yours and Mr. Hubbard's.  Please do others in this hobby a favor, and just throw your 1990-vintage 5165 and 5166 away!!  That's exactly what I did with mine.  There are enough challenges in this hobby, without a newbie thinking they are getting a bargain, buying these turkeys for cheap.  Thou shalt not suffer a witch to live!

My history with switch tracks: Started with 027s, changed to 022s, added Lionel 072s, changed to K-Line Super Snap 072s (later K-Line by Lionel) and FINALLY Ross Plate with first DZ2500 motors and later changed to all DZ1000 motors.

The Ross switches are absolutely the best IMO.

I only wish I had started with them! I would have saved alot of money and aggravation, LOL!