Creating trailing turn-out with RealTrax switch

These switches are sometimes cranky. 

Are you powering the switch from rail or from the transformer via the fourth post? There is a switch you may need to turn on or off. 

You may also want to check if you need to add a new power connection past the crossover.  Place a jumper from your middle rail before the crossover to after  the crossover and see if that fixes your problem.  If not try one after the other of your outside rails with a jumper to the other side and see if that fixes it.  If so, than simply put in a connector between the rail that is without power.

Sorry, forgot to mention that I am powering all the switches from the track at this point.  I did run a separate bus line under the table to ultimately power all of them (over 20) via another post from the transformer (Z-4000).

Thanks, I'll try your suggestion.

Running that jumper for track power might not be needed depending on where or if you tie in your other end. (and if there is anti collision block action on those turnout legs?) 

That said, with what I see, add a lot of power drops for track power too if you haven't. Ideally one between each switch set, and every 4 or so tracks. That set up looks huge  

Hi Abuelogauge,

Nice to hear from you. I hope all is well with you and the family.

You can try to turn around one of the power lock-ons close to this switch complex. Alternate which side they on.

The other option is to use a 40-1068-2 Ground Track on the main just before the first switch to this complex. This has both commons (outside rails) jumpered. it's a good idea to use a couple of these around the layout.

The Real-Trax lock-ons only provide common to one outside rail. Turning the switch around causes the track power jumper common to be on the rail without common, so it does not work.

of course, you can solder some jumpers on the rail contacts of the outside rails on a few tracks , too.

Thanks, Carl (Moonman), for your suggestions.  As EML also mentioned, a jumper will be a quick fix so I'll try that first.  I'm trying to do another trailing turnout in the south dogbone as well.

Adriatic, yes, I have a number of power lock-ons "strategically" placed around the layout and eventually will get them isolated.

Carl, yes progress has been made.  I'll try to put up some pictures and videos in the old thread to give you an idea of how far I've come. 

It's all still very much a work in progress with much masking tape covering exposed wires that I've not connected to my underside bus(ses).  BUT, I can run trains, often 3 at a time, so even though it isn't scenic-ed and some would say I have way too much track I do get a kick out of running the trains and doing some little switching exercises with a train buddy.  Moreover, with all the track I have I can park some "made-up" trains on sidings or in the yard and have them ready to run whenever I want without having to pull them down from wall mounted shelves.  There are now 5 yard tracks along the sofa instead of the two in this video and the four in one of your last iterations of the RR track plan.

I'll include a video of the layout just before I took it up off the floor so as to get started on the benchwork. This floor track plan is pretty much what I have up on the benchwork but I'll put pix and videos of that on the other (old) thread.

Carl, and everyone, thanks for your help and support over the past few years.  Cheers

PS The eerie blue light over part of the south dogbone area is not a spectral presence but from a weird track light on the ceiling (since replaced).

So, do you have the alligator clip jumper sets for test and troubleshooting? Just clip them on the two outside rails near the stubborn switch and determine if it is a common rail missing problem.

Just an "oh, by the way" - it is good that you have Z-4000 with the accessory terminal. When you power the RealTrax switches with accessory power, only the 'Hot" wire is required. Remove the track power jumper, of course.

The switch will get it's common from the track power common, which in this case with a Z-4000, is already the same common as the accessory port internally.

Yes, Carl, I used a jumper "set" and it does seem to be common rail missing problem.

BTW, which of the accessory track posts should be used for powering the switches, the 10v or 14v?

Is the lower voltage one used for lighting buildings?  Thank you.

AbuelO_gauge posted:

Yes, Carl, I used a jumper "set" and it does seem to be common rail missing problem.

I discovered that working on the museum layout. Now you can fix the power issue.

BTW, which of the accessory track posts should be used for powering the switches, the 10v or 14v?

I believe MTH states 10v is adequate for the switches in the manual.  Try it, if you think it needs more, the 14v is available.

Is the lower voltage one used for lighting buildings?  Thank you.

No.  I have used 14v for most AC accessory power needs.