Cutting curved track to length

Fit it into the spot it's going to go into and mark it and then cut it.  Don't count on the layout design program to get it exactly right, that's a sure recipe for wasting track!

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

Fit it into the spot it's going to go into and mark it and then cut it.  Don't count on the layout design program to get it exactly right, that's a sure recipe for wasting track!

Good point, seat of my pants is the way I always did it in the past, fit it together, cut as needed. Fortunately most of it doesn't require sophisticate cutting and most of the cuts are on straight pieces.Also figured out measurements in inches makes no sense with this kind of thing, it is where metric works better. 

I just did a ton of Gargraves flex track, I never counted on the track layout software to get the cuts right.

Make the marks slightly larger to account for the cutter angle and track fit.

Good point Alan, I should have mentioned that I cut slightly long and finish with the Dremel.   You can cut twice, but you can't cut longer.

This thread was moved to the proper category since it is a discussion about track and layout planning....not about a traditional sized toy train.

Using RR-Track, the best measurement I have found is to measure, in the program using the measurement tool, the distance from the outside rail to the opposite inside rail.  This comes closest to the RR-Track properties' length value.

I actually measure, using the measurement tool, center rail end to center rail end for curved pieces.  I then make sure my marking are such my cut is correct.  I  cut the straights to fit.

Lately I've used flex track more.  Sometimes for complex areas I use cut sectional track to define the track placement, then use flex track for the final install.  Cuts down on joints which I think DCS likes.

What is this "Layout Design Program" you all are talking about? 

Custom fit piece are a part of any layout.

Custom adjustment done with a disk sander. 

Mike, everything you do is just so neat.  Nice work there!  Especially the fitter piece of curve between the RH switch and the diamond.  Nice work.

So something to be aware of with Ross track is that no 2 pieces are exactly identical. Its basically made by hand (with jigs and other repeatability assistance).  Most pieces, in my experience, run a tad long (sometimes 10" straights are 10 3/8" long). Lay everything in except the piece to cut, then I would suggest fitting and marking, then cutting the track a bit long and adjusting it back until you get it right.

I've seen that the Gargraves sectional track has a lot more variance than the Ross track.  I have a bunch of Ross O72 curves, they're all exactly the same as near as I can tell holding them up against each other.  OTOH, the Gargraves sectional curves frequently have different lengths.

My layout design program is rail modeler pro, it runs on a mac and I was actually able to figure it out.  I agree about cutting a bit longer, I'll probably do that. I am sure I am going to find pieces that will need to be adjusted once I have it laid down on the table, it is inevitable. It is also why I am going with a Dremel and a cutting disk, trying to do this with a fine tooth hacksaw or something else would be a nightmare.