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Don, got the K-line switcher{no plow though}.

As for guts, there ain't much in there...pics I saw last night shows a large weighted block that holds the 3 axles and motor. The motor is grounded thru the block assy as well as the lights too, so the most I figured was a center rail p/u or two, under the coupler pockets. Add either a bridge rectifier for forward only{under AC usage only} or the spare williams E-reverse board to control things.

According to the pics I saw, this guy from Australia, shortened a 6 wheeled version like the one I'm getting down to a 4 wheeled shorty engine with a new cab - I want to rebody mine into something of a GE 23 tonner on steroids{3 axle}. Since the bottom gear drive cap is made out of plastic I can attach the needed center rail roller pick up and just do a little bit of a rewire....that's the plan at least. 

The Williams reverse board might be a bit difficult to squeeze in there, but a miniature non-shorting DPDT toggle will give you manual reverse with a minimum of effort. You can hide the switch in the cab. I did that with a Merkur steam engine that came to me wired for European 3-rail DC. In that case I had plenty of room for a reverse board, I just didn't feel like going to the trouble of installing it and making a tether. 

1.  Back in '79 I see I bought most of mine for $ 4.99 each -- or one could buy four for $ 17.99....

 

2.  Converting these to 3 rail was not as easy as converting the F9 because of the wheel/axle fit on the switchers.  I recently ran across some of the remnants of my partially completed converted switcher, "partially" because I lowered the river instead:  I converted to layout to run either 2 rail scale or 3 rail hirail, AC or DC....

[ and yes, it had turnouts -- lotsa them.]

 

Best, SZ

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