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I am thinking about purchasing a Dremel Tool or something similar that will do small grinding and shaping projects.  I am not sure what these things actually are capable of doing, and, if Dremel is the end-all tool, or, if others work the same.  Also, what about battery powered versus corded?  Most of my hand power tools now are DeWalt 18 volt battery power, and they work just fine for almost everything I want to do.  

This has probably been discussed before, so, I apologize for asking again.

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There are dedicated power-carving tools available - depending on the amount of work you plan to do, they might be worthwhile.  I use a corded Dremel, but the cord would get in the way for delicate work.  I've thought about a cordless version, but haven't done anything yet.  I don't think comparing it to your 18-volt DeWalt tools is valid - the battery for the rotary tool will be much smaller, which means less power and runtime.

I have several Dremel tools, the one I reach for most often is my cordless 8220, love it.  It's larger than many of the cordless models, but it has power to burn, and the batteries last forever.  Not having to deal with the power cord is very nice I have to say.  I have two batteries, so one is usually in the charger, and the other in the tool. When You're chewing through diecast with a carbide bit, more power is always handy.

I have a model 4000 as well, it's feature, besides plenty of power, is that it has speed control.  For some heavier tasks, this is a handy option.

I honestly don't know how I'd work without the Dremel, I use if for all sorts of tasks.

I do have the flexible wand, the 90 degree cutting head, etc.  Although I don't use them often, it's very handy when they're the right fit for the job.

Whatever Dremel model you buy, make sure it has speed control and sufficient power for the job.  I still have a little one that I've had for 30 years, I forget the model.  It's good for lighter work, but it's not up to some tasks.

Used Dremel's for many years at work and at home and worn many out.
Cutting out metal and grinding polishing drilling, great tool! 
(Suggestion: When cutting metal try not to do it in a single cut. I run my Dremel cutting wheel over the spot many times removing a layer of metal at a time).
I used to use two. When I was doing some intricate cutting with the cut off wheels the Dremel would get very hot. Then I would switch to the other as the first one cooled.
Also had the connection of the motor to the output shaft spleen'd sleeve break after many years of use. Order a new sleeve and it worked.
Dremel sells repair parts and working on them is not difficult.
My wife just got me two more Dremels (one variable speed and the other with 2 speeds) for Christmas as the others were worn our and beyond repair and were tossed out.
I only use 115 VAC wired Dremel's and would not get any other brand.

Mallard4468 posted:

There are dedicated power-carving tools available - depending on the amount of work you plan to do, they might be worthwhile.  I use a corded Dremel, but the cord would get in the way for delicate work.  I've thought about a cordless version, but haven't done anything yet.  I don't think comparing it to your 18-volt DeWalt tools is valid - the battery for the rotary tool will be much smaller, which means less power and runtime.

Sorry, I wasn't trying to compare the Dremel to the DeWalt tools.  I just wanted to denote my personal preference to battery powered versus corded.   

I cannot do without my Dremel. I bought my first one back in the 1970's. That lasted me for years and years until I stupidly used it to cut dry wall and the gypsum shorted it out. I purchased a new one and still have it and use it all the time. I use the sanding drums, cut off wheels, grinding stones, wire wheels and cones, drills, and polishing discs all the time. All of these attachments are easily purchased on line via Amazon or through your local Lowes hardware center. I prefer the Variable speed model as it allows slower speeds for more delicate work like polishing, or higher speeds for cutting and grinding. Wonderful tool.

Tin

I picked one up at the flea market. It is great for polishing, but I can't figure out how to drill or cut with it...

IMG_20161227_072355

All kidding aside, I use an older, 5 speed corded model 395. It is great for cutting track and "heavy" work, but I think I would look at a smaller cordless model if you are trying to "sculpt" or do fine detail. Mine has pronounced "gyroscope" tendencies at the high speeds, you move it up and down and it wants to go sideways too, which is a pain. I suspect the smaller ones would do less of that.

For cutting rails, I use a cutoff wheel to make a rough cut and then the sanding drum to square the ends. Its amazing how fast the sanding drums can remove metal, so be careful.   

 

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Whatever you do, don’t get one of the cheap cordless ones.  If you go cordless, get a better model.

I had a 7700. I only used it for cutting track.  After about a year, I had to get a new battery as the original would not hold a charge.  Also, the speed switch stopped working.  I could only get low speed.  After the second battery went bad, I got a 4000 corded model.

Lehigh74 posted:

Whatever you do, don’t get one of the cheap cordless ones.  If you go cordless, get a better model.

I had a 7700. I only used it for cutting track.  After about a year, I had to get a new battery as the original would not hold a charge.  Also, the speed switch stopped working.  I could only get low speed.  After the second battery went bad, I got a 4000 corded model.

Exactly, that's why I went for the Dremel 8220, it's a brute and the lithium batteries last a very long time.  I actually used a 7700 that someone else owned, but it was a wimp.  I refuse to buy any battery powered tool that uses NiCad or NiMH batteries nowadays.  I prefer the exploding Lithium batteries!

Mallard4468 posted:

There are dedicated power-carving tools available - depending on the amount of work you plan to do, they might be worthwhile.

This is a very good point.

IMHO, the Dremel is like a Swiss Army Knife. If you have one, you can do almost anything ... poorly. If you want to do a lot of something, you should probably get the tool made for that purpose.

I have a 4000 model, plenty of power and works great. But for most tasks it is the tool of last resort. I do reach for it first when I need to make a cut in track which is already installed on the layout (using the 90-degree attachment) or when I want to hit something with the wire wheel, or when I need to just take a little off of something, and I can't get a file onto it. And it has been a godsend a few times when I needed to work on something that I couldn't bring to the bench. Other than that, the little noisemaker / gritflinger stays in its case.

I've got one of the larger corded models and I love it.  I use it most often for scenery and hacking apart plastic toys for greebling. For rough cutting, shaping, etc, you can't do better than the 543 cutting/shaping wheel. It's thicker than other cutting, so if you need both sides of the cut maybe use a cutoff wheel, but it cuts fast and is neigh indestructible.   I've used the same wheel for years now.

Last edited by Eilif
Eilif posted:

I've got one of the larger corded models and I love it.  I use it most often for scenery and hacking apart plastic toys for greebling. For rough cutting, shaping, etc, you can't do better than the 543 cutting/shaping wheel. It's thicker than other cutting, so if you need both sides of the cut maybe use a cutoff wheel, but it cuts fast and is neigh indestructible.   I've used the same wheel for years now.

From the Dremel description

 

  • Comprehensive offering for general purpose to specialized high performance applications
  • Consistent performance from wheel to wheel through superior manufacturing processes Tested for balance
  • This product is made of high quality material
  • Use the edge of the wheel for cutting and slotting.
  • Use the "face" of the wheel for shaping.
  • Do not use on metal.
  • Cuts 33% deeper than former Cutting/Shaping Wheel...up to 1/2"

 

Since I cut a lot of metal, I use the fiber reinforced cutting wheels.

 

Tinplate Art posted:

DIESELER: WOW! BEAUTIFUL craftsmanship!  :-)

Bob i would get one you cant go wrong and they are great for model trains in my opinion.

The variable speed ones are nice.

Buffing postwar journals and bright work like railings , siderods etc.

Have used it on a 820 floodlight car searchlights to make them really nice again.

Some of the small type of vinyl brushes come in handy for cleaning spoke wheels and the steam chest on low speed.

 

There good for many things and the cuttoff wheels often come in handy for small jobs but glasses a must as i have had several shatter on me when caught up -safety first.

Also thanks for comments the dremel i used is  395 model type 4 have had it for good while, i have taken it apart several times to clean out the dust especially after carving out those pipes pictured.

They buffed out nice with bee's wax useing the dremel.

Whats nice is at least this model you can easily change out the brushes which i have an extra set by just unscrewing on each side. Has large commutator easily cleaned .

 

Just one comment, use goggles or some kind of substantial eye protection.  I had a near miss that learned me a good lesson almost the hard way.   

The one thing I have never been able to find is a good adjustable 3 jaw chuck for the dremel to use with drill bits.  The dremel brand chuck is a waste of time and money. 

I have  a +/- 20 year old Craftsman "Rotary Tool" that appears to be a re-branded Dremel that has served me well.  I have a flex shaft attachment which helps get in close to work.

I use the fiber-reinforced cut-off disks, which are great and have a larger diameter that the regular ones, which helps in cutting already installed rail.  The little cut-off discs tend to shatter.  (always wear safety glasses)

Also great are the sanding drums which cam remove a lot of material fast.  The abrasive buffing wheels do a good job for cleaning, polishing, paint and rust removal.

I have found the stones not to be terribly useful, and the carbide cutting bits tend to burn up faster than they can cut.

All that said, i have found it a very useful tool. 

I have 2 of the 120 volt dremel tools, the newer one is model 300. Mainly use them for drilling holes on the layout to mount track screws or hang shelves on the wall. The dremel tool is better for tight areas and if you use the flex tool extension bit you can get around some corners or tight areas where a straight drill won't get to. Also got a dremel tool kit box(has a lot of accessories for the dremel tool)with the first dremel tool I bought almost 14 years ago.

Lee Fritz

gunrunnerjohn posted:

When I picked up mine, I got this kit 8220 Series 12-Volt Max Lithium-Ion Variable Speed Cordless Rotary Tool Kit (32-Piece) $79.  I principally bought the kit for the carrying case so I could take it on the road.

John is right -Model 8220 is one of the best and right now the complete kit is on sale at Lowes.com for $79.99.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Dreme...e-Rotary-Kit/3824383

Sean

When you are shopping around stick to the Dremel brand rotary tools. There are plenty of knock-offs/clones that are cheap but most aren't worth the cost of the cardboard box they come in. The shop I work in has given several brands of rotary tool a chance, due to considerable savings, but much like a sandcastle at high tide none of them ever last. The knock offs typical end up with bearing failures on the output or switch failures. My favorite cheap clone actually came with bushings for the output and lasted about six minutes before it seized and smoked a motor! For the price, albeit considerable for a hobby tool if you get one with several bits and attachments included the 4000 is close to $100 kitted out most places, they are worth every penny.

Mine was purchased for my R/C hobbies as I needed something for making motor mounts in aluminum and for the price of a decent miniature mill I decided its either an old worn out bridgeport or a dremel and some patience. I'm still working on the patience but the dremel was much easier to get in the basement! 

I bought the Dremel XPR 400 about 5 years ago about the 3rd time I used it, barely a month old, it caught on fire and I had to toss it and run for the plug!  Not everything Dremel makes is bulletproof.  To Dremel's credit, when I sent the XPR 400 in for warranty replacement, they had the good sense to send me the 4000 as the replacement, that one is still alive and well.   If you look for smoking Dremel XPR400 you'll see my experience was not unique!

Many years ago I bought a cheap clone from Lowes for $20, it got hard use for 4-5 years, and the switch died.  It's still being used by my daughter with a replacement switch that I grafted in.

I don't use the very expensive Dremel disks, but my brand-X fiber disks cost much less and work just fine.  I can manage the little screw for the difference in price.  The EZ456 disks cost close to $10 for a 5-pac, and I buy them from Widget Supply, $13 for Reinforced 1.5 inch Cutoff Wheels - 100pc.  They may not be quite the Dremel quality, but they work great for about 5% of the Dremel price.

gunrunnerjohn posted:

I don't use the very expensive Dremel disks, but my brand-X fiber disks cost much less and work just fine.  I can manage the little screw for the difference in price.  The EZ456 disks cost close to $10 for a 5-pac, and I buy them from Widget Supply, $13 for Reinforced 1.5 inch Cutoff Wheels - 100pc.  They may not be quite the Dremel quality, but they work great for about 5% of the Dremel price.

Oh yes the dremel brand cutoff wheels shatter easily.

When it comes to buffing pads the no.414 and no.429  are excellent and i have yet to find aftermarket ones to match as i have tried and when using them they wear very fast and leave your clothes full of small pieces of material from them unlike the dremel brand.

Same with the bristle type brushes the aftermarket ones are not good and wear very fast along with twisting into a ball where as the dremel brand i can wear them down to practically their metal casing without twisting up into a ball .

Last edited by Dieseler
gunrunnerjohn posted:
Eilif posted:

I've got one of the larger corded models and I love it.  I use it most often for scenery and hacking apart plastic toys for greebling. For rough cutting, shaping, etc, you can't do better than the 543 cutting/shaping wheel. It's thicker than other cutting, so if you need both sides of the cut maybe use a cutoff wheel, but it cuts fast and is neigh indestructible.   I've used the same wheel for years now.

From the Dremel description

 

  • Comprehensive offering for general purpose to specialized high performance applications
  • Consistent performance from wheel to wheel through superior manufacturing processes Tested for balance
  • This product is made of high quality material
  • Use the edge of the wheel for cutting and slotting.
  • Use the "face" of the wheel for shaping.
  • Do not use on metal.
  • Cuts 33% deeper than former Cutting/Shaping Wheel...up to 1/2"

 

Since I cut a lot of metal, I use the fiber reinforced cutting wheels.

 

That's probably wise.  

I've used the 543 on lead and pewter and it does well, but I've not put it up agasint hard metals and as you say it isn't really meant for that anyway.  For plastic and wood though, it's amazing.

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