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This is dad's and I first layout. I have been working on a couple of models and this one is the most promising out of all of them. If you would like to mess with the layout send me a email to dshupe171@gmail.com.

 

The layout is 24ft. and 8in. by 24ft. and 8in. Please keep the layout inside the red lines because of it is the table.

Red:Track 1

Blue:Track 2

Pink:Track one, two transition 

Light Green:Main Yard, Left side Freight, Right station and passenger yard

Dark Green:Connection of track three to the rest of the track

Purple:Track 3, point to point track

Yellow:Small yards and stops

 

If you like you can remove track two and keep track two at 72 turns or higher.

We are using Gargraves track and Ross switches after a lot of research.

I thank everyone for the support.


P.S. Ask as many Questions as you like.

 

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  • Our Layout 3D
Last edited by thetrekki
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We are using Gargraves track and Ross switches after a lot of research.

 

That is always a good choice.  You get great reliability and design flexibility with Ross switches.

 

As Rich noted:

 

You even included a switching lead...off BOTH ends of the yard.

 

That is very good.  But it looks like your leads are shorter than your yard tracks which means a switcher pulling out a full string of cars will have to foul the main.  You could extend the lead on the South (bottom of the drawing) end of the yard by going to single crossovers between main 1 and 2.  I would suggest moving the double crossovers to the inside of main 2, that would give you reversing loops on the lower level.

 

Next, consider your equipment and track spacing. 

 

What defines your train length?  For many of us it is a 5 to 10 car passenger set.  Are your yard or station tracks, sidings and reversing loops sized to handle your longest standard train.

 

What defines you track spacing on curves?  Do you have any scale passenger cars or auto racks?  How about scale articulated stream locomotives or electrics?  The combination of locomotive overhand and car encroachment will define your track spacing.  Six inches is needed on O-72 plus tracks to clear all the equipment out there today.

 

How far out from the walls are your outside tracks?

 

The tracks in your yard are parallel.  They could likely be closer giving you more working yard space or car storage.  Curve replacement switches (O-72, O-54, etc.) are not space efficient for yards.  Look at Ross #4s or Ross regulars for yards and sidings on parallel tracks, the may give you another track of two in the same space.

 

Is this an around the walls layout or can you walk behind the west side?  If it is an around the walls layout, congratulations for making the most of your space but consider how hard it will be to reach the turn table.  Now consider reaching the back side of the yard let alone the main lines.

 

The good news is that you have enough space in the center of the room to reconfigure your yard and/or your locomotive service facility.  Consider moving the turntable and roundhouse or even the yard to a peninsula that comes out into the center of the room and reduced the reach in on the west side of the layout.

 

Also...

 

Ross curved switches are great space savers and look fantastic.  If I planned a layout without one I'd look to see why I hadn't incorporated any. 

 

And consider one of Rich's favorite scenic tips.  Since you are using Gargraves you can introduce some gentle curves.  Running main tracks with broad curves or tangent sections that aren't quite parallel with the walls adds visual interest. 

Originally Posted by Ted Hikel:

We are using Gargraves track and Ross switches after a lot of research.

 

That is always a good choice.  You get great reliability and design flexibility with Ross switches.

 

As Rich noted:

 

You even included a switching lead...off BOTH ends of the yard.

 

That is very good.  But it looks like your leads are shorter than your yard tracks which means a switcher pulling out a full string of cars will have to foul the main.  You could extend the lead on the South (bottom of the drawing) end of the yard by going to single crossovers between main 1 and 2.  I would suggest moving the double crossovers to the inside of main 2, that would give you reversing loops on the lower level.

 

Next, consider your equipment and track spacing. 

 

What defines your train length?  For many of us it is a 5 to 10 car passenger set.  Are your yard or station tracks, sidings and reversing loops sized to handle your longest standard train.

 

What defines you track spacing on curves?  Do you have any scale passenger cars or auto racks?  How about scale articulated stream locomotives or electrics?  The combination of locomotive overhand and car encroachment will define your track spacing.  Six inches is needed on O-72 plus tracks to clear all the equipment out there today.

 

How far out from the walls are your outside tracks?

 

The tracks in your yard are parallel.  They could likely be closer giving you more working yard space or car storage.  Curve replacement switches (O-72, O-54, etc.) are not space efficient for yards.  Look at Ross #4s or Ross regulars for yards and sidings on parallel tracks, the may give you another track of two in the same space.

 

Is this an around the walls layout or can you walk behind the west side?  If it is an around the walls layout, congratulations for making the most of your space but consider how hard it will be to reach the turn table.  Now consider reaching the back side of the yard let alone the main lines.

 

The good news is that you have enough space in the center of the room to reconfigure your yard and/or your locomotive service facility.  Consider moving the turntable and roundhouse or even the yard to a peninsula that comes out into the center of the room and reduced the reach in on the west side of the layout.

 

Also...

 

Ross curved switches are great space savers and look fantastic.  If I planned a layout without one I'd look to see why I hadn't incorporated any. 

 

And consider one of Rich's favorite scenic tips.  Since you are using Gargraves you can introduce some gentle curves.  Running main tracks with broad curves or tangent sections that aren't quite parallel with the walls adds visual interest. 

Working on the yard to fit more tracks going to see what i will do to the rest so it will be less strait.Could All the tracks are 1 inch apart or more, would you recommend bringing them farther apart.

Last edited by thetrekki

Hi thetrekki,

Looks great! Would attach the SCARM file for us to work with?

 

A SCARM note: study the Ross switch details carefully. SCARM is still in beta and I believe that the divergence curve extensions are not included in the library yet. I don't work with Ross switches that often, so this is my recollection.

 

How will you operate your trains? Command, conventional or both?

 

You have a high percentage of track to scenery. You haven't left many locations for buildings. Even the spacing for the roundhouse area looks tight if you plan on installing one. Consider that for your final plans.

 

Finally, think about the train room area, now that you have your layout close.

Any lighting, ceiling work, wall finishing, backdrops and such should be completed first.

 

What a great project to work with your father. You'll always cherish this time.

 

Last edited by Moonman
Originally Posted by Moonman:

Hi thetrekki,

Looks great! Would attach the SCARM file for us to work with?

 

A SCARM note: study the Ross switch details carefully. SCARM is still in beta and I believe that the divergence curve extensions are not included in the library yet. I don't work with Ross switches that often, so this is my recollection.

 

How will you operate your trains? Command, conventional or both?

 

You have a high percentage of track to scenery. You haven't left many locations for buildings. Even the spacing for the roundhouse area looks tight if you plan on installing one. Consider that for your final plans.

 

Finally, think about the train room area, now that you have your layout close.

Any lighting, ceiling work, wall finishing, backdrops and such should be completed first.

 

What a great project to work with your father. You'll always cherish this time.

 

I have noticed that the 0-54 0-32 switch is off. I was going to use it but it does not fit correctly. We are going to be using DCS barely any convetinal

Last edited by thetrekki

Me and my dad were doing more talking and we wanted a mountainous railroad. This was the one closest to the final product. We tried to fit a roundhouse into the layout. It would not fit without dirtying the main because we run almost all steamers so I think I might me able to fit a Ross transfer table but i cant find all the dimensions. So here is the new layout design hope you like and I still would like criticism.

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  • 3D version 4
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Last edited by thetrekki

Nice big layout.  What is the scale. The small boxes are not 1' foot.  What size curves will you be using? If you have the room add a tt & round house within one if you dog bone curves, you would need to rework the curves to fit them in. And or instead of a C shape layout to add a turntable and rr make the layout shape an E. Books by John Armstrong are always a good idea, he describes givens and druthers. Things that are important to you & not what others think are important. Also what is the purpose of your layout.

Originally Posted by thetrekki:

We tried to fit a roundhouse into the layout. It would not fit without dirtying the main because we run almost all steamers so I think I might me able to fit a Ross transfer table but i cant find all the dimensions.

 
thetrekki, I agree with Seacoast. I think if you run almost all steamers then a TT/RH is the way to go, since transfer tables where used more by diesels, but in case you decide to go with a transfer table here is the dimensions of ours. 
You and put up to 6 tracks off each side of the table depending on track spacing and building door spacing if you decide on using those.
 
 
Dimensions 247/16"(W) x 28 3/4"(L) x 6"(D)  
 
 
 
 

 

Originally Posted by Seacoast:

Nice big layout.  What is the scale. The small boxes are not 1' foot.  What size curves will you be using? If you have the room add a tt & round house within one if you dog bone curves, you would need to rework the curves to fit them in. And or instead of a C shape layout to add a turntable and rr make the layout shape an E. Books by John Armstrong are always a good idea, he describes givens and druthers. Things that are important to you & not what others think are important. Also what is the purpose of your layout.

The middle of our Layout is living space so we won't be able to turn it into a E but I did find that I could fit a roundhouse inside of the curve but my dad does not want to dirty the main. We are using O-72 or more on track one and O-54 or more on track 2. It is O Gauge.Each box is 5 in.

Last edited by thetrekki
Originally Posted by Seacoast:

Ok, I see that you have a turntable in the 1st photo with tracks. 072 will let  you run many large steam engines. What size are your blocks (one block/box = how many inches? in the layout plan.

Each block is 5 by 5 inches the problem with the first layout is that there is not enough pop outs.

Seacoast,
To further clarify. We are not going to do the first layout because of many limations. Look at the 6/14 post. That is the current version. The only thing missing is the round house. Which will be worked in later. Likely will have to expand the loop at the end to fit it.  I am working with Treki on this and it is the first time either of us have built a layout.

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