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In the OGR uprade video, I believe it is a RailKing MTH GP9 (I've watched it, but not in a few weeks), so I'm sure this can be done. Mine is a Premier, but the size should be the same...

Short question/story - 8 lighting wires go to the shell (headlight, tail light, 2 mars lights, 2 number board lights, front and rear markers) 6 have associated ground wires (the marker lights each have 2 wires that go back to the harness). I can't make thewires fit, so I can put the shell back on. (About 6 hours of staring and rerouting. About 10 hours total labor and a few hours watching the video and reading.). Each wire ends in a pin that goes into a connector.I could strip that back, shorten the wire and re shrink wrap.
Do I need to shorten each wire?
Will that be enough?
I've walked away for the night, but i might gain a little space if I pigtail the couplers and cab lights near the base and pigtail the 6 shell lights.. Any thoughts on that?

The longer story:
No smoke, no overhead beakon - Associated wires gone.

In order to put the boards on the chassis, without raising them as shown in the video (I tried raising the boards first, but that left less wiring room), I have a BCR. It is nice and small.

This also eliminates the need for a charge port. As soon as i find a spot for the BCR, I am going to splice the battery/ charge port wire, so I can discard the charge port.

All other wiring (couplers, motors, tach, cab lights, speaker, volume) has been routed below the top of the PS2 boards, except enough to allow ground wire pigtailing of the couplers and cab lights.

I'm getting a bit frustrated with the process (glad it is a hobby). A always, I appreciate any suggestions
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quote:
Don't button it up tight yet. You're going to need a battery installed when you download a sound/personality file. The BCR won't work for that step.

Gary,
I haven't tried it yet, but according to J&W:

With the new 2.1v downloader, when downloading a sound file, the download will not fail with the BCR2 installed
quote:
Originally posted by Dale H:
I hope you are wearing a grounding strap when handling the boards. Static electricity discharged from your body can damage them.

Dale H


Well.... Nope.... I read the warnings and if I blow it (I should know by tonight or tomorrow), I will kick myself,I all owed myself to get lazy. I've never had a computer board, or a components of the laboratory equipment I work on go as a result of static, I just got unreasonably indignant that the boards would be designed in such a way that they are susceptible. I will eat my crow with ketchup, if need be. And I certainly won't post that since I got lucky, you can too.
Now if I could just get the silicone to hold the dang marker lights and headlights in place.
Welll... i have direction and the test sounds!
I did toast the red marker lights..... dang dang dang. and my frnt and back are reversed. rewiring the motors, no problem. The LEDs are a PITA
But wait, while I would love the right PN, it dawned on me I had 2 sets of bad red markers. In this case 2 wrongs madea right!

Here's the rub. Marker lights from MTH, both in the kit and when I ordered a replacement have the individual legs shrunk wrapped. This makes them too bulky for the hole. The LEDs from the PS1 and the LEDs I burned out in my Steam tender were shrunk wraped in such a way that there was a single shrink wrap, that easily fit in the hole to allow the LED to protrude. I figured out how to reproduce the single wrap, but would prefer to order a proper marker light. Does anyoe have the right number? I have CC2040000
Last edited by Marty R
I shorten all the wires too..well not really as I make my own wiring harnesses as I have all the PS2 connectors as well as all the molex stuff that used at the lights.
Silicone?? eww..that's to messy for me as I use a hot glue gun and as soon as I put a dab on some wires or lights I give a shot of air from a blow gun as that speeds up the setting process.
I have plenty of red marker lights that come with the PS2 kits. Shoot me an email and I'll send you some.
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