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Hello--

 

I have my 4' x 8' table built, and the Super-O tracks are all preliminarily laid out. I've purchased California Roadbed homasote that I plan to run under the track as the next step. A few procedural questions to those who've done this, if you wouldn't mind:

 

1) Do I run the homasote strips over the timber bridge, or just the track directly atop the bridge?

 

2) I will be wiring small light bulbs into each of the two scratch-built buildings. Am I better off using "traditional" 14w bulbs, or should I go with cooler-operating LED bulbs?

 

3) It's a single-line layout that essentially has track running the perimeter, with a figure-8 in the center. The only twist is a hidden loop at the base of what will be the mountain, and I will have it appear for about two track lengths before it runs back into the mountain before exiting out the other end. At any rate, there is about an 8.5% downward grade to accommodate this hidden loop, and my test runs show that the locomotive has no trouble making the drop with the throttle at 12v. (I will only ever run the train in one direction.) My plan is to isolate the entire decline section of the layout and running it at a set 12v using the D-U portion of my ZW. For the incline--which is never more than a 3.5% upward grade--I will run it at 16v using A-U. The incline/level section makes up about 2/3 of the entire layout. Do I need more than one contact point to power the track from the transformer? I seem to recall reading that one power connection for every 10 pieces of track is necessary to supply even power, or something like that.

 

4) Gantry Signal #452. Though I'm trying to keep everything postwar, the 153c contact seems to be too problematic, and I'm thinking about one of the MTH IR (motion sensor) units to trigger the 452 signal. That way, I can conveniently mount its ugly self inside the mountain loop, where the train will trigger the light to change from green to red just before it appears out of the mountain. Can anyone confirm that the MTH IR sensor is in fact compatible with the postwar 452, and if so, does it have a delay like the Lionel IR unit that's 2x as expensive as the readily-available MTH?

 

5) It seems that screws would make more sense than tacks/nails for affixing the track to the homasote roadbed, and it looks like #4 screws fit in the Super-O track holes. The "fluted"-head screws distort the brown plastic holes in the Super-O track if tightened too snugly. Am I better off using #4, 1/2" round-head sheet metal screws?

 

6) Is there anything else I should look for before tacking in the cardboard strips that the sheets of plaster will cover over? I've run the locomotive with 5 cars behind it quite a bit, and I have no clearance or derailing issues. I have a trap door at the bottom of the table where I will be able to access the inside of the mountain structure.

 

Any/all tips or suggestions appreciated! Thanks.

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Hello Dale--

 

Thank you for that thorough response; I hope I have the brainpower to process it all. One thing that jumps out at me is your response to item 3)...

 

<<

3) You will get the pickup rollers jumping the blocks. A and D will be connected together when this happens. This can damage the transformer and is not breaker protected. A better approach is to use a single tap and relay system system with a voltage dropper made from diodes. You would need one relay for each grade and maybe 5, 25 amp bridge rectifiers. Dropping voltage with diodes is shown here

>>

 

I've been told by everyone that "track isolation/dual power source is your best friend" regarding the incline/decline situation. You're saying that placing one of the plastic Lionel-issued bus bar connectors at each end of the track section I want to isolate will result in transformer damage? I'm not sure what "pickup rollers jumping the blocks" means. (Forgive my naiveté; I used to set up these very trains around the tree every year as a kid in the 70s, and I'm just now getting around to building the bona fide fixed layout I've always wanted.) I do have two very old prewar Lionel rheostats that likely belonged to my grandfather. Could these be used in this situation?

I have a couple of old Netgear wall warts that put out 12VDC up to 1.2 amps.  I run those through a Stepdown converter to make sure I am getting only 12VDC.

 

i buy the converters off eBay from China, it takes about a week to two weeks for them to arrive.  AC/ DC to AC / DC Converter Board Step-Down Voltage Regulator Input Module 8-48V. This one is similar, but I need to look for the exact one I bought.

 

i have  about  40 LEDs on each wired in parallel so I don't have to think any harder.  I guess I could go to 60 LEDs, but I have a box full of wall warts.

Originally Posted by Desert Center CA:

Hello Dale--

 

Thank you for that thorough response; I hope I have the brainpower to process it all. One thing that jumps out at me is your response to item 3)...

 

<<

3) You will get the pickup rollers jumping the blocks. A and D will be connected together when this happens. This can damage the transformer and is not breaker protected. A better approach is to use a single tap and relay system system with a voltage dropper made from diodes. You would need one relay for each grade and maybe 5, 25 amp bridge rectifiers. Dropping voltage with diodes is shown here

>>

 

I've been told by everyone that "track isolation/dual power source is your best friend" regarding the incline/decline situation. You're saying that placing one of the plastic Lionel-issued bus bar connectors at each end of the track section I want to isolate will result in transformer damage? I'm not sure what "pickup rollers jumping the blocks" means. (Forgive my naiveté; I used to set up these very trains around the tree every year as a kid in the 70s, and I'm just now getting around to building the bona fide fixed layout I've always wanted.) I do have two very old prewar Lionel rheostats that likely belonged to my grandfather. Could these be used in this situation?

The bridge rectifiers are a much better solution. They will drop voltage pretty much the same regardless of load. I would not use the old  rheostats, which are wirewound resistors for a lot of reasons.

 

When an engine or lighted car with 2 pickup rollers crosses the adjacent center rails,one roller sits on the block connected to "A" and the other one sits on the block connected to "D". Thus the A and the D are connected together via the 22 gauge wire which connects the pickup rollers inside of the car or engine. This creates a  problem in the transformers secondary winding which is not protected by the circuit breaker.

To demonstrate this effect take a PWZW. Set "A" tap at 18 volts and set "D" tap at 6 volts. Touch a wire to the A and D terminals,it will heat up very quickly and start to burn. (Remove it before it does damage). The same thing can happen to your pickup roller wiring if it is parked that way or stays there too long. It is also hard on the transformer.

 

Make sure your old transformers are in good working order before using. Check the line cord for deterioration,especially where it goes into the casing. Check the circuit breakers by shorting it out,a wire across A and U for example set at 12 volts or more.

 

 

Dale H

Last edited by Dale H
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