Foam over Quiet Brace

Jeff....I am not sure why you would want to apply a layer of foam over the Quietbrace.  I used Quietbrace on my layout and then painted it to seal in the asphalt coating.  Then just use a good cork roadbed under the track.  Since you already have used table top construction (I am assuming), and are wanting features well below track level, then you may want to consider cutting out sections of the table top.  Or, you could raise the track using blocks then a layer of ply and cork followed by the track ....

  Trying at the help desk for product compatibility is where I normally start. If they don't know, they can usually supply good info to contact the manufacturer.  Anything else is a guess. 

  A coat of primer should do the trick, but a laytex primer seems like the one I'd definitely look into for compatibility.

Jeff

I also used Quite Brace over plywood. I see no reason to go the foam board on top of that. I actually replaced  1" foam board with Quiet Brace.

I used about 10 pieces of 4x8 foot sheets of Quiet Brace and due to how messy it is I painted it with  cheap light green flat Latex paint from home depot before I even brought it in to the train room.lol 

Good luck with your project and mostly just have fun with it no matter what route you go.

Larry

Thanks for all the replies.  My original intentions were to just use the Quiet Brace over 1/2 inch plywood, but I really wanted to have the track elevated above the table top a couple of inches, to permit me to have more undulating terrain for the scenery.  During the imagineering phase, I thought I would cut out the plywood directly under the track, and insert short 2X2's perpendicular to the track to raise it off the plywood, or plywood/Quiet brace table top. I could see where this was going to be a lot of work, and then looking at the discussions of the 2 inch foam-- I thought that would be a lot easier, and I could just dig out the area's where I wanted the terrain to be lower than the track. Then, I thought-- heck I've already got this quiet brace, and that will raise me another half inch, I 'll just go 1/2 inch plywood, 1/2 inch Quiet Brace, and then the 2 inch foam.  My layout is around the room with a short line flavor, so I wanted to have lot of hills and tunnels, and bridges. Maybe something with the feel of a back woods narrow gauge, done on the cheap kind of operation. 

I really think the latex primer / paint would stop any deleterious effects of the asphalt coating.  I appreciate all the input and feedback. 

Jeffrey

Jeff,

Like Alan says, just paint the Quiet Brace with latex paint, then glue your 2" foam on top. That gives you a fill 2 1/2" depth before you hit the plywood, which should be plenty for what you want to do. You will likely need some long drill bits to get down to the wood so you can run your wires.

Chris

LVHR

6" & 12" length small diameter  drills, aka aircraft drills,  are available at Grainger.

From Tom Tee:     "Eternity is a long time to have been wrong."

I don't know if you came up with that-- but I really like it. 

I am going to use tortoise switch machines, or maybe some RC cable setups, and the need for long drill bits has crossed my mind. Harbor Freight has some really long ones really cheap, but they are also not very sharp. Never knew about "aircraft drill bits" so again-- this forum has been very helpful. 

I will post pictures when I get cranked up. Working on the Masonite backdrop at this point. 

Again, Thanks!

I just looked at your profile LehighLine-- and I see that you ARE a chemist!  I asked for one and got one! 

I knew someone on here would have the expertise.

Thanks again!

Jeffrey

Jeffery, the only good signatures I have used were borrowed.

Like,  "I am not an expert, I only play one on the forum."

The Grainger A/C  drills are reasonable priced and hold their edge.  Don't know why,   but many  holes for what ever reason wind up needing to go through a stack of wood. 

Harbor Freight can be  a hit or miss with the level of their quality.  On our tile and stone forum there is a detailed description of the inflated  manner by which H/F rates their electric motors.