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After reading a post earlier this week regarding simulating rust I checked out one of the products that was discussed is a link to another forum. The product is called "Rust Antiquing Set" by Sophisticated Finishes. It is a 2 part process. The first is a paint that has suspended Iron filings in it. It works on just about any material. You just paint the object with the paint and let it dry for at least 12 hours. Once dry you brush the solution onto the surface. I can only figure that it causes a reaction with the iron filings and soon you can see the rust developing. Directions state that the solution can be applied directly on iron to cause the rust. Best part of all it is available at Micheals Craft stores. Cost was less that $10.00 with my wife's coupon and the kit will cover 3 sq. feet.

rust 4

 

This picture shows the process as applied to the plastic girders that

are usually included with the Lionel Tractor Trailers. Note the differant

variations in the "rust". I believe this happens when three is more of

the solution that pools up or is applied havier. It is possible to go back

and apply another coat of the solution as well. The surface even has a

rust texture to it.

rust 1

 

Another picture showing the variation. Just like mother nature does it!!

 

rust 2

 

The picture below shows the process as applied to one of the chrome

culverts that are supplied with the operating culvert cars. The rust texture

is unbelievable on these. Also shown is the 2 bottles included with the kit.

rust 3

 

Also in the picture above you can see the ends of some girders that I painted

last night and had just applied the solution to.

 

Give it a try. I think you will be pleased with the results

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Last edited by Strogey
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Greg....you gotta try this stuff. I believe that is actual rust. Just sit back and spend the evening painting. Come back the next night and start adding the solution wash. There are no odors and the stuff cleans up with water. I do it at my desk in the living room. I tried some without waiting the full 12 hours, more like 4 or 5 and those are the ones that are darker with less of the yellowing. They claim it can be used on wood, just seal the wood first.
Originally Posted by Dave Zucal:

How thick does this stuff go on? Is it heavy like latex paint, or is it thin like spray paint. Sometimes heavier paints hide details in the item there used on (like wheel sets). It sure looks like it would work great on tracks.

Dave...It is pretty thick and I am sure that if you had really fine details you would indeed cover them up. I have thought about trying some on a spare wheel set as well as a spare section of track. I was thinking the same thing as far as track. What could look better than actual rust. On the girders I painted with solution last night I kept the solution on the light side and the rust is a darker color with much less yellow rust. I have also noticed that when the solution has air bubbles trapped in it once appied it will leave a spotted effect as seen in the picture above showing the 2 girders.

 

I think the hardest thing about this stuff is not going overboard with it. Last night I was thinking of putting it on the structure portion of my Gantry crane and just about everything else that represents metal!

I wonder if you thinned it and used the correct nozzle, if it could be sprayed on in layers. I just got back from a Michaels in Ohio and found some bottles of copper and iron on the clearance rack for $2.99 ea.(normally $9.99) they did not have the two bottles in the box like you purchased, and said they are no longer going to sell it. What can I apply to this to make it rust?

Originally Posted by Dave Zucal:

I wonder if you thinned it and used the correct nozzle, if it could be sprayed on in layers. I just got back from a Michaels in Ohio and found some bottles of copper and iron on the clearance rack for $2.99 ea.(normally $9.99) they did not have the two bottles in the box like you purchased, and said they are no longer going to sell it. What can I apply to this to make it rust?

Dave....The directions state"Do not thin." Guess it does not hurt to try. I don't use an air brush but I would be afraid of the Iron fillings causing havoc on the nozzle. You can acuatally feel the filings in the surface of the oaint once it dries. The ingrediants of the solution are Amonium Chloride and Copper Sulfate if that helps. Only warning on the package anywhere is the wear gloves. If you want I can check our store again and pick up a kit for you. Contact me via email if you want. Brother love did me a big favor and I promised to pay it forward so let me know.!

Originally Posted by Ray Marion:

Hello Everyone

 

     So what are your opinions about this product? I have been using it on trucks and couplers with great results. It seems waiting about 4 hours will create a very light color. More time and it goes darker.

 

Ray Marion

 

  

 

I am still using it when appropriate. I was doing a batch of Girders and Culverts just last night! Here is a picture of the crane area on my layout. If you look you will see culverts in the one trailer as well as one hanging from the crane truck. Also all the rusted girders were done using this product!

 

 

crane area

 

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Last edited by Strogey
Originally Posted by Norton:

Thanks for posting. I plan to get a set and try it with my 6 dollar Harbor Freight airbrush set.

 

Pete

Pete...trust me on this, you will not get this stuff through an airbrush! The gray paint with the actual metal filings in it is thick and the instructions specifically say not to thin. Of course you are free to try but figured I could save you some time.

Originally Posted by Arthur P. Bloom:

I take old iron nails (free) and let them stand for a few weeks in water (free) in a coffee can (free),  then I brush the liquid on the object. It looks just like rust!  Sometimes I add a little white glue as a thickener (almost free).

Great Idea!

 

My only question is will the rust cause rust?

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