Homasote vs Cork

I covered all the plywood with homesote. Where the mainline would reside I added cork or Vinylbed on top of the homesote. I found it easy to shave the cork using a coarse rasp to transition from the mainline to the yard areas. The one advantage to homesote. It holds nails or screws pretty well.

The issue is securing the track without having the screws reach the plywood. If you are gluing down your track then it may work but if you plan to screw it down, the cork roadbed (which I believe is only 3/16) may not be enough to hold the track in place.

We still covered the plywood with homasote, and used cork to elevate the mainlines. Sidings and industry tracks are spiked directly to the Homasote. Easy way to give the added elevations like real track work, and have a soft base to mount everything else to.

Plywood, Homosote, cork.  My  standard approach.

Pull through passenger station, multiple tracks.  Homosote only over plywood.  However I raise the plywood   equal to the thickness of the absent cork to provide a flat smooth transition when leaving the cork/Homosote R.O.W. to mount the track directly on Homosote.

For freight yards and sidings I replace the Homosote directly under the track with 1/2" plywood sitting on sandwiched in spacers made out of what ever road bed product I am using.

Then I flex it down  with a gentle vertical "S" curve to share the Homsosote only surface over a distance of 30 +/- inches much like prototype settings.

All Homosote seams are floated with a Portland leveling product like Ardex feather finish using a 12" to 14" flat trowel. 

Note step in subroadbed plywood in upper right corner of photo,  This is where the mainline loses it's cork roadbed as it approaches a double crossover at a passenger terminal area.  1/2" Homosote covers all this area, just no cork in station area.  lower plywood subroadbed bottom right side comes from the passenger storage yard which has track directly mounted on Homosote.

The Tee nuts will provide ease of disassembly from below when that need arises.  Shown are the installation bits & fastener pcs.

Pieces of scrap cork roadbed are sandwiched between the gusset splice and the double crossover subroadbed which provides an accurate transition.

Benchwork, plywood subroadbed on risers, Homasote 440 (moisture resistant) roadbed, with Gargraves screwed into the Homasote, but not touching the plywood underneath.  Works supergood!  Quiet.  Clean.

What is Homosote?

Recycled newspaper.  Hence the color.

We used 5/8 plywood, 1/2--to--5/8 Homasote, 1/4 cork and made sure all was leveled and flowed smoothly. Atlas O screws directly into the homasote ONLY.  The very most important part of your Layout is The Track, and The Wiring of Your Layout. You must allow for Clearances on Parallel Trackage, Curves near Tunnels and Bridges....Now, although Your Trains may have Railsounds, which are absolutely Wonderful, Sometimes it's FUN, To turn Off the Sounds and see and Appreciate the Really Quiet sounds of Silence.......Thanks for Asking.

Milwaukee Road Rob posted:

Question I have 3/4" bench work, and I have always used 1/2" homasote on top of bench work.  I am doing a new project and I am thinking about using 1/4" cork underlayment instead.  I have had no issues with homasote, just wondering if cork is better.

The cork would have way less seems to deal with, and I think I will still add 1/4" cork or 1/4" vinyl on top of the cork underlayment.  Any feed back would be greatly appreciated.

Mark:

You have overkill with 3/4 inch plywood.  The homasote is used as "sound-deadening" material on layouts--it's purpose and is easy to get nails/screws into v. plywood.  TOO expensive!  Use fiberboard--sold at Menards at about 1/2 the price.

The cork roadbed is for "sound-deadening" and also for realistic appearance.

I think you should save yourself money and use 1/2 ply, 1/2 fiberboard and cork...

Its not overkill if you have to walk, crawl, or stand on the layout. Portable/modular layouts are a whole different aninmal. If your layout is permanent, you can't over build it. No dips, sags, or warping down the road.

Anyone would be wise to carefully consider alternatives vs. crawling on a layout.  It is very inconvenient, unsafe and risks destroying/damaging the trains and scenery.   

Lots of good advice here. I skipped the Homasote. Way too messy, it likes to absorb water and play with the track height too, you have to paint and seal it or depend on a good dehumidifier in the basement.

I use 1/2 plywood with midwestern cork roadbed. Avoid large pieces of plywood that will resonate. I cut only the track base in plywood and make sure its separate from the rest of the scenery,  if you remove the screws after you glue and ballast the track down, its very quiet.