How to attach track to WS Inclines?

I used Professional TightBond Wood glue for everything on our layout, i.e. glued the Vinyl road bed down, then glued the Atlas O track & turnouts down on the road bed. Any screws that were required to keep the track in place, were later removed after the glue dried.  

"What kind? Will "Liquid Nails" work?"

    Just make sure it's a foam safe adhesive as some can damage foam. I use acrylic caulking compound for my flex track on cork, never tried using those foam risers so I'm not sure if the caulking compound would hurt them of not....DaveB

Thanks for the replies. I guess what I'm getting at is that screws are not an option. Not even temporarily as they would have to be several inches long to get through the roadbed, the foam inclines and into the wood table substrate. Dunn'o if there's even such an animal as a four to five inch # 4 or even #6 woodscrew?

So I see adhesive as the only option, using weights to keep the track in place until the adhesive sets up. Ugly thing is, with adhesives, there is "no going back." Seems that expensive track is  effectively "ruined" for any future use? Appreciate the tip to be sure any adhesive is "foam friendly."

Not sure how you would use them with track, but I think Woodland Scenics has some long push type pins for doing similar things with their foam stuff while the glue dries. Might ask them if they have any further tips or check their website?

The wood glue and caulk suggestions might also be good for later removal? Seems like the liquid nails might be more difficult to remove? If you make changes and ballast your track the glue may not matter as it would probably be covered up with the ballast. 

You can use drywall trim screws.  These have a thin head and are about three inches long.  All you need the screw for is to keep the track from sliding sideways.  I put a piece of one inch foam on top of the Woodland Scenics risers to fill in all the gaps.  I only used the risers on one side and the other elevation I used foam that I had taper cut.

 "Seems that expensive track is  effectively "ruined" for any future use?"

   The acrylic caulking will peel off the track with some work but if you re-use the track a bit of caulking residue doesn't matter as it will be glued down again anyway. I just pre-fit the track then when I'm sure it's all cut correctly I spread the caulking in a thin layer and place the track on it and let it set up. One can move it around for a few minutes to align everything. If it needs to be held in spots I just set some weights on it using things like books or canned goods or whatever I have on hand.....DaveB 

all my inclines on foam have a small strip of luan on top.  This one shows the hump yard

by having it run past the incline and screwed to the base level. Since its same height as road bed acts as replacement for it over that section.  In this case the spaces were filled in with great stuff which also holds everything together until the scenery layer.

I start with luan because it bends properly and can be adjusted for the  transition to grade, simply by adjusting foam underneath. Once set, the foam is locked in place.  the remainder of grade can be anything you want.