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I found this great little battery online and thought I'd share.
For background, I like to install my batteries in the engine and charge while in the engine (so, no remove and replace).
It's also no secret that I'm a big fan of Lithium Ion (LiIon) batts with PCB protection for under current and over charge.
I have been searching for a 3 cell LiIon 11.1v battery with 1,500 mah or higher that could fit into my AtlasO SW9.
My typical go to batteries would not fit. Either too large or not in the proper configuration.
Then I found this Airsoft gun battery. I thought it was a LiPo with a balance lead, but it is LiIon. One lead if for charge and the other lead is power to the engine. PERFECT. And the fit is great. It even comes with its own USB charger.
At 2,000 mah, I was hoping for 90 minutes of continuous run time. To my surprise the engine ran for 1 hour and 57 minutes before reaching the PCB shutoff for under current.
This might be a great solution for small engines.

CLICK HERE to purchase them.

VICMILE Airsoft Battery 11.1V 2000mAh SM2P Plug with USB Charger Compatible with Airsoft Gel Water Bead Blaster Rechargeable Batteries 2PACK

vr
Ron
Last edited by Rich Melvin
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Very interested in this battery. I have 2 switchers that I would love to do the same. Ron would this battery be good candidate for a 44 toner ? It looks like the charging jack is going to be hard to disguise unless you can put it along side switch.

Bill,

I have not looked into use on the 44 toner, but since I have 2, I might.  I agree the bulky charge cable could be an issue.

Also some times price scares me. Do you have any information on quality?

No more information than the reviews on Amazon.  80% of the reviews are 4/5 Stars.

A few of the 1 stars had some failure issues.  Bad battery?  Incompatible with product?  Misuse?  I don't know.  I can tell you that I have used it twice and charged it twice.  I treat it like a LiPo and only charge when I'm present.

After almost 2 hours of run time the battery was cool to the touch.  Not even warm.  Same after a charge session.

But you have to make the best decision for you and be comfortable with it.

Ron

I text MTO batteries to see if they can make the same size to install in smaller diesel engines.  Gave them information on size from the Amazon web sight you provided. They said they can build in house any size. I also mentioned that I felt there were folks in deadrail / Battery powered  that would be interested in this size. Of course price is a issue. Waiting for their reply.

I text MTO on making a battery to fit smaller engines . Gave them the Amazon details. They said they went to the Amazon site and that is a LiPro battery and they do not make that type , but if I could give them the dimensions of what would be a good fit they could build it ,  turn time is  5 to 7 days. I was wondering if you out there who are deadrail / Battery  power would give me some dimensions that would work for your smaller diesel.  Remember your system boards and wiring needs also for a. Good fit. I will collect the info and send them the information. I will see if they would build and have in there product line up.

Last edited by Bill Grafmiller

Just received  a reply from MTO batteries on difference in lithium.

Lithium is a very generic phrase and can encompass many different variants of lithium batteries.  The ones on Amazon  are definitely Lithium polymer. We know this based on their physical size as it is not a standard size for Lithium ion cylindrical cells  like we would use. Lithium polymer is cheaper to manufacture and does not have as long of lifespan.

Still not believing Bill... Sorry.

Specifically how can I tell the difference between a lithium ion battery and a lithium polymer battery?
ChatGPT

Distinguishing between a lithium-ion (Li-ion) battery and a lithium polymer (LiPo) battery can be challenging, but there are a few key differences you can look for:

  1. Physical Appearance: LiPo batteries are often pouch-shaped and flexible due to their polymer electrolyte. Li-ion batteries are typically more rigid and can come in cylindrical or prismatic shapes.

  2. Packaging: LiPo batteries are usually enclosed in a flexible foil pouch, whereas Li-ion batteries are commonly found in hard-shell cases or cylindrical shapes.

  3. Weight and Size: LiPo batteries tend to be slightly lighter and can have a higher energy density, which means they can pack more energy into a smaller size compared to Li-ion batteries.

  4. Voltage: Li-ion batteries usually have a nominal voltage of around 3.6-3.7V, while LiPo batteries often have a nominal voltage of 3.7V per cell.

  5. Applications: LiPo batteries are commonly used in remote-control vehicles, drones, and other hobbyist electronics due to their flexibility and ability to deliver high currents. Li-ion batteries are found in laptops, smartphones, and various portable electronic devices.

  6. Charge and Discharge Rates: LiPo batteries can often handle higher charge and discharge rates compared to Li-ion batteries.

  7. Internal Structure: If you can safely disassemble the battery (not recommended unless you're experienced), you might be able to identify differences in the internal structure, such as the separator material and electrolyte.

  8. Labeling: If you can find any labels or markings on the battery, they might provide information about the chemistry.

Yes and no.  I actually did finish the install of lights, switch and charge port.  Then disaster hit and I had to repaint.

In this 1st pic, you will see the "Y" in Company came off.  It happened I guess while handing installing the lights and switch.  This was strange because I clear coated the model with Tru Color Clear.

Pic 1

So, I added another Y and decided to give the engine a generous coat of clear using Krylon Colormaxx Clear.

WARNING!!! DO NOT EVER USE KRYLON COLORMAX CLEAR ON DECALS.  For myself, I will never use anything but model paints from now on.

The Krylon went through the clear coat and ate the decals.

Pic 2

I ruined the paint trying to remove the decals.  So, I gave it an alcohol bath and started over.

So now this is where I'm at.  Primer and a thin coat of silver for the stripe.  At least I'll get the stripe correct the first time.  Those following a different thread on the subject will recall my stripe dilemma.

Pic 3

When will I learn, short cuts are never short.

Ron

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Last edited by Ron045
@Ron045 posted:

Ahhh.... What?  My post and your reply have pictures.  Maybe clear your cache or something.

That’s because the images reside on your system (including the one in my reply). You probably dragged and dropped the images or used some other method (shortcut) besides the one that Rich Melvin has outlined in his post linked in my previous reply. I’ll bet no one else who views your post can see those images, either.

Last edited by Training Wheels

That’s because the images reside on your system (including the one in my reply). You probably dragged and dropped the images or used some other method (shortcut) besides the one that Rich Melvin has outlined in his post linked in my previous reply. I’ll bet no one else who views your post can see those images, either.

Fixed... Where were you when I had the Kyrlon in my hand?

Very interested in this battery. I have 2 switchers that I would love to do the same. Ron would this battery be good candidate for a 44 toner ? It looks like the charging jack is going to be hard to disguise unless you can put it along side switch.

I had to open up my 44 tonner to replace a light.  There is no way this battery is going in the MTH 44 tonner.

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I went into the website of your friend at GSI it's a new website. Looks to me he has a few new batteries.  I might be wrong on that. I emailed him to see if he had any information that I could transfer a battery from my tender into the NW2 legacy switcher. I think I could do it with my NW2 lionchief I never put a railpro module in it so I would like to also strip it out and see if the battery and module would fit. I was hoping that your new battery would work in a 44 tonner.

Last edited by Bill Grafmiller

Ron . Did you get the conversion done? Like to see some pictures.

Sure did... Making a video now.  Here are two photos for a sneak peek.  I tried to put the Blunami in the cab which is plastic.  I could not get the shell to sit right on the frame.  So I had to move it to the hood which is metal.  So far no operating or connectivity concerns on my 15' x 33' layout

The 2200 is mounted to a piece of styrene to keep off the metal hood.  I made my speaker and power wires detachable so I could remove the hood from the frame for maintenance.

The battery is in the hood also.  Charge port and on/off switch are accessible through a removable smokestack hatch.

vr
Ron

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Last edited by Ron045

Hey @Ron045, if I wire the two airsoft batteries in parallel, will I get roughly 2X the run time? That would be decent for 2 motor GPs locos, I think.  Also, do you (or anyone here) know if a pair of these wired in parallel can be charged together via one charger?  And will the usb based charger included work for this?

Thanks in advance!

i've been bit by the deadrail bug... enough to play around at least!

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