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The modern ones feature a maintenance free DC can motor and two large gears which provide smoother operation over the noisier AC motor of the prewar/postwar version. The only downside of the modern era ones is that the wiring terminals are clips underneath the base, whereas the older one had terminal thumb screws on the top of the base.

I have no experience with the original Bascule bridge but the modern version is a very nice looking and functioning accessory.  I like the hook-up being underneath as it makes the bridge look better.  For ease of wiring, I create a wire harness from the clips under the bridge and run the wires to a terminal block under the table.  Should the bridge need removing for service (which it has not needed) I just disconnect the wires at the terminal block and lift bridge straight up.

 

Good luck on you choice and happy railroading,

Don

My post-war one worked fine! The primary problem with the post-war ones is that they are not tall enough to allow schnables, stack cars, and  electrics like the acela with  pantographs to go through them!!! I had a post-war one and increased the clearance as per the following article:

 

https://sites.google.com/site/...dge/basqual-bridge-1

 

I would only buy a modern one with the high clearance!!!!!

 

stan

 

I have an original and both modern ones. For operation I vote for the modern versions.  They are quieter and more reliable.

 

One modern version uses the same colors as the Pre-War/Post War bridge and the other one is painted in more subdued, "realistic" colors.  I am willing to bet you can get the one with the more realistic colors for less money.

 

As previous posters have discussed, one thing to keep in mind is that the Lionel Bascule Bridges were not designed to take the larger, modern equipment many of us run today, so there are certain restrictions on where you can put them on a layout.

 

Hey, that makes it more interesting.

 

Ed Boyle

Thanks for all the feedback. Modern version it is.

 

Ed,

This will be in a harbor setting leading to a dead end industrial area, so nothing big running through there, just switchers.

I am interested in an earlier post about different height clearances. Since you seem to have all of them, are there any differences between the two modern versions?

 

Thanks

No, I don't believe there is any difference in clearance height for the three bridges.

 

As I recall, there are some issues with how the tubular track mates with the new and old  versions, but I don't think that is a factor in terms of your proposed use.

 

Given the scene in which you want to place the Bascule Bridge, the "realistic" colors may work better for you. If you want things more authentic in terms of a tin plate look, then the original color scheme for the bridge makes more sense.

 

Ed Boyle

I picked up a pre-war version with the gear drive. Base was all cracked and metal was bent. Under a $100. On the Bay A bit of epoxy, a little tin knocking, clean and greased the gear boxes, polished the commutator, dressed the brushes, added a repro light cover with flashing LED. Adjusted the brass leaves on the reversing unit. Weathered it to look like the abandoned one that I have seen in photos on this forum. Got the 0-27 adapters from Lionel. Yes 0-0-27 pins still do exist. I run it with an accessory motor controller or simple push button. Nothing that one wouldn't do to any other of the post war stuff. Runs like a top. Super slow and fast. Not sure why you would pay more for a modern version. The old ones were built to last. And to be rebuilt. I think the new ones use plastic gears.

The thing to watch with the pre/post war bridge is the counterbalance spring.  This is a heavy spring that helps the motor lift the bridge.  In the down position this spring pulls up one corner of the bridge frame.  When the bridge is stored the spring is supposed to have the tension relaxed.   If this does not happen, the base can be warped.  Other than being noisy, I have never had any trouble with the post war bridge I have. The clearance is tight.  If the clearance is 4 5/8", that is only 18' 6" high.  That would give any railroad trouble. 

The original bridges are Collectible and Operational, a little loud and old technology. The newer versions are very nice, smoother operating, and possibly able to be controlled by the latest Legacy/TMCC Remote Controllers. The one common denominator is neither of the Bascule Bridges allow the Scale Cars through. They are fun to watch in action, but would restrict Rail Traffic to some degree. I really wish Lionel would make a newer Bascule Bridge in 1:48 Scale. This would be a Have to Have Bridge for the new direction Our Hobby is Growing. WOW.

The latest Bascule Bridge (6-37920) appears in the signiture catalogue for 2007 !! The overall dimensions are larger than the postwar bridge 313 and it appears to be taller from the pic. 

Could someone who has this bridge measure clearance ( top of rails to under side of of top beams) ????   

This is the one I would recommend if clearance is more than 4 5/8 " 

We have the black-painted version of the modern bascule bridge.  It sits side-by-side with the 213 lift bridge.  Both work flawlessly.

 

Never had a PW bascule.  I seem to recall that zinc-itis and spring loading would/could induce a warp to the bridge's base, rendering the accessory poopie in the long run.  That might be something to check visually firsthand if you do find yourself shopping around for a PW unit.

 

Re the clearance topic...

 

Been there, faced that.  For me it was part of the realization that my accumulation of RailKing double-deck automobile carriers with the nifty diecast autos was never going to make it across 'the river' into the yard district.  Ergo, they went to the auction block.

 

I recall the modification suggested to the bascule bridge to increase clearance.  However, the lift bridge is the gateway to the freight yard, bascule to the passenger terminal.  And there's no easy way to improve the clearance on the lift bridge. 

 

I chalk all of that up to 'providence'....a hard-and-fast reason to NOT buy certain equipment.  It helps to constrain 'billfold bleeding'.

 

KD

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