Lionel Fastrack Manual Switches HELP

Stick with a hook works for a few feet but seven feet...Remote switch is the way to go.

I thought about doing something like this. but I would have to put a hole in the metal underside of the switch and drill a small hole in the arm of a manual switch. so with the fastrack switch being 46.00 approx. price and a tortous machine aroung 19 I think you would save about 10 bucks per switch ( if it works ) but have the labor of doing it too .

7 feet !?  I have seen manual push\pull throwbar actuator rods under the layout, but they were nowhere near 7 feet long.

Like a tortoise motor setup at the switch with a looong rod.

opps forgot to add the link to a video of what I was talking about

If you remove the switch stand you should have access to the throw rod.

You could then use the Bullfrog manual switch control. The problem is that there is only a 36" cable available.

This is where the 7' causes the problem. You need to get creative with a cable or rod to operate the switch and still keep it inexpensive.

There are go kart throttle cables 54"-56" long or brake cables(very heavy. large diameter) that are 64" for a few bucks.

Those two would be about $10 a switch. That plus the cost of a manual puts you very close to a used remote switch. If you are patient, you will find deals on the used remotes.

Look up a product called "Sullivan Gold-N-Rod"

It's for model airplanes, but it is a flexible plastic pushrod in a tube that I have used to actuate several O-27 manual switches on my layout. While you can only get 48" lengths, you can connect two together using the included short threaded rod to get any length you want. As long as the force required isn't too excessive and the outer tube is held down at regular intervals, it will transmit the motion/force to the switch.

Thanks Matt, may use this info sometime...

In 2008, I authored an article which described a ridiculously simple way to convert manual Fastrack switches to remote. Would be glad to supply details. 

by all means supply away I would love to hear it. I have about 10 manual switches I need to convert. it started out as a simple layout and now with all the switches I am needing to convert a few and buying 10 remote switches will be costly figure new ones now are almost $100 can find deals at about $78 so even at that it still is $780 bucks for switches. these in the pic are all manual switches well you can't see the switches but the spirs have switches going to them just in this area there is 6 switches all manual.

Bob

   If you can please post the article, I would love to read it.  I am looking for a few more FasTrack 072 Command Control switches, at reasonable prices myself. Picked up a 060 & 048 just recently from a OGR member, I am trying to hold the cost down on these CC switches, your article definitely interests me.

PCRR/Dave

Please do Bob!

The conversion article is on pages 17-20 of The Bulletin Vol.43 No.2 (March/April 2008). Posted is a recent update used to check out a controller from a new company offering model RR products. Diagram 1 shows a panel mounted DPDT switch which can be some distance from the relay/controller/track switch. The controller and relay can be mounted under the layout and small structures can cover the servo. Diagram 2 shows an optional wireless approach using an R/C receiver.

Isn't it easier to just get the Fastrack remote switch?  That looks like a lot of work to make a silk purse out of a sow's ear.

Guns,

   I afraid I have to agree with you, although his engineering looks like it will work, the amount of time required to rework the switches I am not going to spend.  I will continue to pick up the Command Control Switches as they become available.

PCRR/Dave

Lirr

--just for giggles--

Not recommending you do this---but I did install a kluge remote on to a fast track 036

switch. Out 0f 8 switches-it was the only remote switch necessary for me. So I found an old HO switch solenoid( in my parts drawer). I picked up the challenge and installed it(under the table @ the track switch).

I had to remove some parts in switch and used a piano wire---- between solenoid swing arm and the throw bar of the switch. I used a double throw electrical switch to activate it.

I finished about an 1 1/2 hours later-so do not recommend. I've since removed 036 switch kluge with a Lionel remote 048 switch. Found old/used switch on this forum.

But must say--the solenoid solution worked well. I believe it needed 12vdc to throw it.

Floyd

I have no doubts that it would work, and I've done many things that it made a lot more sense to just buy a canned solution.  With that in mind, I guess I shouldn't be panning any of these solutions.  

Sometimes we do this stuff just because it's there, kinda' like mountain climbing.

your probably right but for instance if you use my layout as an example. I have 7 manual switches all in an area close to where I sit and run trains all 7 are bought and paid for. 40+ dollars. there on the layout and work fine. but the layout has changed direction since I bought them and having remote switches would be a better option then having manual ones which in the beginning were fine. so now I have to make a choice pull all 7 switches try to sell them for atleast close to what I have in them which we all know isn't going to happen so let say I sell all 7 at 50% of what I paid that is approx. $140 that at current remote switch price is 1 3/4 switches. because they range from approx. $70 to $120 for command lets take the cheaper of the 2 prices 70 X 7 =$490 - $140 leaves $350 more to spend on remote switches. or with my idea of the tortious switch machine I haven't tried but really think it would work. and be all hidden under the layout. 20 x7 $140.00 in switch machines. and if I ever move away from fastrack I have switch machines. the time involved is a mute point to me. for instance there is a guy who built a Washington station and it took something like 4 years to do it. time involved isn't justified in that situation either. but its a hobby and we do what wh have to to get the job done.  what I am trying to say is for someone who already has the investment in manual switching out to remotes are a costly adventure so coming up with other ideas sometimes are needed.

Jhanier,

   I can understand your thinking, and if you have the time go for it, me I want the Command Control switches, I have no manual FT switches so buying them and then reworking them, seems a big waste to me, and most times I am not paying $70.00 for CC FT Switch, I have been picking them up for $60.00, including shipping.  I know this will probably come to an end shortly, however I keep looking around and so far I have been lucky.

PCRR/Dave

and once switched over I can plug them into my aiu and control them with the remote now the other 11 switches I have are all remote switches and I am slowly adding them to the aiu. but I surly need some glasses to work with them wires my eyes are not what they once were. that's why I keep putting it off can't see the wire's or the hole in the aiu to put them in  wow never realized I have 18 switches .

I certainly agree that sometimes the motivation isn't monetary, and like I said, I do lots of stuff that would be far cheaper to just buy the product.

The manual switch conversion is really quite simple. When you add the cost of the servo/controller/relay/switch ($20.00) to the cost of a manual switch, it's quite a bit below the cost of a remote, especially the command control version. The operation is very realistic and you do get additional contacts for lights/signalling if needed. But, I like experimenting with my layout and I agree, this approach is not for everyone.

Gentlemen,

   In my case I am trying to eliminate layout wiring, not create more of it, I would rather pay for the Command Control Switches and eliminate the AIU wiring & switch wiring all together, and I do realize that the technology in this case drives the cost up for the layout.  For this exact reason I have been shopping around for my Command Control switches.  I though there might be a way to up grade the FT manual switches into becoming a real Command Control low voltage Switch, that operated on track power.  In my case re-engineering the switches like you are doing does not really help me.  It's not a bad engineering idea, I just can not use it on my layouts, I am trying to eliminate wiring thru technology, the less wiring the better.

PCRR/Dave