Lionel Vision Line PFE Reefer's

The couplers on all of the sound cars that year (the VL reefers and the Ps-1s) are among the most unreliable ever.  Unless you have a need for an electrocoupler on a freight car, just glue it shut and be done with it. 

I have this issue on mine, anything ahead of the hind end 5 cars it opens, I just glued mine like BM above.

The VL Reefers use the RCDR with triacs to control the electrocouplers.  These are sensitive to electrical noise.  If you're still interested in having the functionality of the coupler, consider a 1uf 50V non-polarized capacitor across the RCDR outputs to the coupler.  That may fix the issue if it's electrical noise.  If it's mechanical, the fix is either to repair the coupler or replace it.

gunrunnerjohn posted:

The VL Reefers use the RCDR with triacs to control the electrocouplers.  These are sensitive to electrical noise.  If you're still interested in having the functionality of the coupler, consider a 1uf 50V non-polarized capacitor across the RCDR outputs to the coupler.  That may fix the issue if it's electrical noise.  If it's mechanical, the fix is either to repair the coupler or replace it.

GRJ just wondering haven’t had this issue with with the VL reefer but both me and a friend have issues with roughly 2010-2012 era legacy steamers that do the same thing. Would a cap across the coupler help in this case as well? 

As stated never had issues with the electro coupler but the mechanical couplers on these car are terrible. Almost all of mine have a rubber band around it

Do NOT put a cap across any Legacy locomotive coupler that uses the RCMC, it uses DC on the couplers and the cap is bad news for those.  For earlier Legacy with modular boards you can try it, but I've been told that the cap is already in the design for those, but I have never verified it.

Many times the coupler issues are mechanical, the fix is either take the coupler apart and shine up the parts or buy a new coupler and hope that one is better.

To isolate it to mechanical or electrical, just unplug the coupler from the electronics and run them.  If they still uncoupler, fix the mechanics.  If they don't uncouple, then it's most likely electronic in nature.

I put some liquid cement on this am and so far so good. I would like, eventually, to get it repaired properly but I have 2 engines down right now with Gunrunnerjohn John working on one! 

Work has gotten slipped a little as the expert help for the layout arrived and I am kinda' trying to get that laying flat before he escapes.

gunrunnerjohn posted:

Do NOT put a cap across any Legacy locomotive coupler that uses the RCMC, it uses DC on the couplers and the cap is bad news for those.  For earlier Legacy with modular boards you can try it, but I've been told that the cap is already in the design for those, but I have never verified it.

Many times the coupler issues are mechanical, the fix is either take the coupler apart and shine up the parts or buy a new coupler and hope that one is better.

To isolate it to mechanical or electrical, just unplug the coupler from the electronics and run them.  If they still uncoupler, fix the mechanics.  If they don't uncouple, then it's most likely electronic in nature.

Ok understood thanks for the clarification. When a coupler is tore apart what’s the best method to remove and replace the rivet? 

I remove the rivet using a pair of cutters, the stock aluminum ones cut easily.  If they're the steel ones, I nip it off with the Dremel, most cutters won't take the steel ones without a fight..

Putting them back on, I usually use my Brakeman's Riveter.  If I'm working with the press already, I will sometimes stick that tool on and use it.  Replace the knuckle spring as well unless it's a pretty new coupler.

Thanks for sharing the great information!  What are good sources / part numbers for the coupler rivets?

Contact The Train Tender, Jeff has the rivets and springs in stock.

Thanks!!