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Engine's symptom- changes direction on its own while running down the rails

 

 

I am repairing a Lionel 2-4-2 starter set steam engine.  It has a two position reverse unit.  I did all the normal service to it, cleaned wheels and pickup rollers, cleaned commutator, replaced brushes.  When the engine is connected via alligator clips the engine runs fine, when it is on the rails the engine's issue returns, and I have tried cleaning the track .

 

any ideas? I am stumped.  It can't be the e unit, when it is not on rail it runs fine, I did notice in reverse the engine will not change on its own.  Only when traveling forward? 

 

has anyone come across this?

Last edited by bbsfdl60
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What type of pick up rollers does it have ??

 

Early in MPC production, hollow pick up rollers were tried (and dropped) as they are very sensitive to the slightest bit of dirt or grime on the tracks, not to mention switches.  

 

If your engine has these hollow rollers you are best to lock it in the forward position.

 

Ken

Originally Posted by bbsfdl60:

no they are not hollow, standard rollers that connect to the brass rectangular strip.  Which I cleaned as best I can.  

 

I might have to just tell the customer that they need to lock in one direction

 

It happens sometimes, I have a 4-4-2 with the hollow pick ups that runs through anything that I throw at it, yet one of my 4-6-4's with PW style pick ups, that has been serviced, cleaned and them some, I have to lock in forward only.

 

Ken

Couldn't a capacitor/diode set up be used to help the E-unit coil from dropping out at the cost of holding the direction button longer?

 

The tech(non train) in me says swap the e-unit with a known good one, or bypass it and watch for motor hesitation or amp fluxuation to eliminate the e-unit as suspect. Coils can be finicky to power changes, fast amp draw could cause a drop out too.

 

A MARX Commador Vanderbuilt I have did this for years before it suddenly ran right again. All I can think of is maybe I moved the position of some wires during a clean & paint. I suspect they had been shifted over a bit during its one prior cleaning, landing them in a magnetic field area with enough "noise" to have the E-coil drop quickly.

The real pain was it had no direction lock!

 

Agree with the suggestions of loose wire or poor ground.  How about putting a pickup on the tender truck and supplementing power & ground with a two-conductor tether?  If the loco had the Electronic Mighty Sound of Steam from the factory, it might already have a single connector with supplemental ground on the Tender.

 

Also dirty brush wells or inadequate brush spring tension can cause this problem.

 

Finally do all four wheels sit squarely on the rails?  The MPC frames were light gauge compared to their Postwar predecessors.  A fall from the table or a collision could have skewed the frame such that all of the wheels no longer make contact with the track!

 

My $.02.  -Ted

AS others have said, it is the pick-up roller assemblies. Just replace them, they are inexpensive, about 1.50 each. They just snap in. You can add more tension if needed. Just lift the brass contact near the middle with a small screwdriver near the middle where the dimple is as slide out (after the rollers have been removed) It will come out without having to unsolder any wires. Bend slightly and reinsert. 

I have one (#8203) with the same issue.  Some of these 2-position e-units are just 'jumpy' for lack of a better term.  from what you are describing I don't think cleaning will do it.  I would recheck the grounds--testing it with alligator clips will not necessarily rule out the e-unit.  Also check the e-unit lever and the lug it contacts next to the solenoid.  If that is not clean and tight track vibration can cause a break in the circuit which will trip the reverse unit. 

Originally Posted by Tommy_F:

I have one (#8203) with the same issue.  Some of these 2-position e-units are just 'jumpy' for lack of a better term.  from what you are describing I don't think cleaning will do it.  I would recheck the grounds--testing it with alligator clips will not necessarily rule out the e-unit.  Also check the e-unit lever and the lug it contacts next to the solenoid.  If that is not clean and tight track vibration can cause a break in the circuit which will trip the reverse unit. 

This is the same engine, I will double check the e unit, the lever is tight.  If the e unit operates fine when powered through alligator clips then isn't it safe to assume it is ok?  I think it is something with the pickup rollers perhaps not making good contact with the brass bar.  I do not see an easy way to pop the pick up assembly off to look closer, I do like the suggestion of adding a pickup roller to the tender

Originally Posted by Chuck Sartor:

AS others have said, it is the pick-up roller assemblies. Just replace them, they are inexpensive, about 1.50 each. They just snap in. You can add more tension if needed. Just lift the brass contact near the middle with a small screwdriver near the middle where the dimple is as slide out (after the rollers have been removed) It will come out without having to unsolder any wires. Bend slightly and reinsert. 

I will try that..

Originally Posted by Chuck Sartor:

AS others have said, it is the pick-up roller assemblies. Just replace them, they are inexpensive, about 1.50 each. They just snap in. You can add more tension if needed. Just lift the brass contact near the middle with a small screwdriver near the middle where the dimple is as slide out (after the rollers have been removed) It will come out without having to unsolder any wires. Bend slightly and reinsert. 

After reading this I had a "ohh yeah" and slap in the head moment. I pulled the pick up rollers off, then gently removed the brass tab, bent it down a and replaced all parts.  The rollers were much tighter and no more problem. Thanks for the help.

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