Lower level staging vertical clearances and grade to reach it

I use a grade of 1/4" per linear foot. (i.e.: 20' = 5" clearance. ). That would be enough for the train clearance but not for lifting and moving rolling stock.

The previously mentioned 1/4" per foot translates to ~2% which is a very safe grade. You could probably get away with 3% if you had to. I wouldn't go with less than 12" from top of rail to bottom of benchwork, 15" would be better.

How many tracks were you thinking of for staging?

2 or 3 tracks, including the lower level main loop

Pat,

Here's a plan I made for my 12x12 room that I'm considering:

I used 090 curves for the main loop and 072 curves on the inside.  I'm still debating to do it using upper/lower mainline loop or use a 22-1/2 degree crossing as shown.

With a 15x15 room and a bit of rearranging some staging could be installed.  The liftout/liftup section at the bottom permits entry into the room.

This plan is for a 12x12 room upstairs, where I have an additional 2x8 space down the left hand side for a staging yard, that's why I didn't plan for any in the main room.

Good luck!

I wasn't working with "reach-in clearance", 6" level to level was the goal. It takes a good bit of distance to do 6" and twice as much to do 12".   The outside loop of my layout was either up or down with very limited level spots.  Only level spots are the double crossover middle top and the 1/2 loop lower picture.  Bridge grade part of the loop is about 13ft (156") of run.  Rock grade part of loop is about the same 13ft.
Grade   6" divided by 156" = .038   3.8% grade, relatively steep.  Room size not including the closet to the bottom is 12' 6" X 10' 6".  Best wishes with your project.

Mike CT.

Modified track layout for  Turntable and house.

I crossed a doorway with an Atlas double track Pratt Truss Bridge and added one more diorama to complete the layout.  The TT/RH and Coal Tipple Diorama are another room about the same dimensions as the first room.

Camera walk around.  Click on the underlined phrase to access.

Rock Grade.





First deck bridge done with an MTH Graduated trestle set.





Bridge Solutions bridge.

Camera walk around.  Click on the underlined phrase to access.

Rock Grade.

Mike,

The link comes up with:

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If you are just staging/storing trains, and not "fiddling" (put your  hands in there to exchange cars), 12 inches is a good clearance.    6 clears the trains - but you always have a maintenance problem in the hardest to reach places.   If you are going to put switches under there, I sugguest 10-12 inches clearances to allow for maintenance work.  

If you are going to fiddle with the car by hand - I suggest 12-15 inches.   You need the clearance to avoid banging the cars on top of each other on other tracks when you move them in and out.   

the 3% grade is pretty safe too.    If you use short trains, you could do 4%.   3% is about 3/8 inch per foot.    4% is about 1/2 inch per foot and pretty steep for trains.

Make a grade gauge.    Cut a piece of wood about 26 inches long.    At precisely 25 inches from one end, drill a hole and install a bolt loosely with a nut on the bottom side.    25 inches is 100 feet in O scale.   1/4 inch is one foot in O scale.   So you can adjust the nut to provide the % grade you want but its depth.   1% is 1/4 inch, 2 % is 1/2 inch etc.    You put the wood on the base board with the nut side down and put a level on the top.   When the level is level, the grade is whatever percentage you set with the nut on the bolt.

Rather than a grade gauge, I just do the math prior to construction.

If the room is 15 x 15, you have 180" down each side. If you go around all 4 sides that gives you 720". At 3% over that distance, you could get a little over 21" of separation from top of benchwork upper to top of benchwork lower. 21" may seem like a lot, but you need to allow for the thickness of the upper benchwork which you will have to pass through. With 1x4 construction and a plywood top you're looking at about 4", leaving about 17", a very comfortable space for what you want to do.

If you don't think you need that much separation, you could decrease the grade or only use 3 sides of the room.

Thanks everyone...I'm really awed at the amount of information and advice you provided. You guys are aces!!

Mike, I'm impressed with your rock formations. I'll be getting into doing some and wonder if you would share how you did them? Thanks, Stu

They are Woodland Scenic Rock Molds.   Here are a few construction pictures. 

Nice! Thanks. I'll have to work with foam layers on mine.

Here are some useful tools to calculate the grade and distances you need for a grade:

Grade Calculator

Grade Chart