Magnetic ring placement

I use Loctite 416 gel CA Adhesive.  I've also used Walther's Goo.  Either will do the job.  Make sure the magnet ring is securely seated in the groove and totally secure before installing the flywheel.

gunrunnerjohn posted:

I use Loctite 416 gel CA Adhesive.  I've also used Walther's Goo.  Either will do the job.  Make sure the magnet ring is securely seated in the groove and totally secure before installing the flywheel.

Hey John,

This particular ring just rest on the flywheel and there is no groove for it to fit in.  The ring sits on the flywheel with a little over hang.  Do you know of a way that I can center this ring onto the flywheel?  Some forum members said that they had to make a jig of some sort to properly align this ring,  however,  I was unable to find how they did it.  I’m afraid that if there is any sort of unbalancing,  it may cause damage to the motor.

There's always a groove for it to fit in, I've used a number of the fix-it flywheels,

There are three steps on the flywheel, the magnet sits on the second step.  It has a bit of "slop" there, I use four cardboard shims to center it so it doesn't wobble or vibrate and then glue it.  you can just cut the shims flush after the job and leave them there as long as they're spaced evenly and the same size.  Also, thoroughly clean the flywheel before you attach the magnet ring to make sure the glue sticks to the flywheel and not the dirt.

We are talking about Part: 620-8523-102, right?

gunrunnerjohn posted:

There's always a groove for it to fit in, I've used a number of the fix-it flywheels,

There are three steps on the flywheel, the magnet sits on the second step.  It has a bit of "slop" there, I use four cardboard shims to center it so it doesn't wobble or vibrate and then glue it.  you can just cut the shims flush after the job and leave them there as long as they're spaced evenly and the same size.  Also, thoroughly clean the flywheel before you attach the magnet ring to make sure the glue sticks to the flywheel and not the dirt.

We are talking about Part: 620-8523-102, right?

That part number is correct John.  I’ll give  this a try.  By the way,  there isn’t any paint markings on either side of this ring.  Which side needs to be facing the sensor board?  

The magnet "bumps" on the ring face AWAY from the sensor board.  The smooth side of the ring faces the sensor.

gunrunnerjohn posted:

The magnet "bumps" on the ring face AWAY from the sensor board.  The smooth side of the ring faces the sensor.

Thanks John!  Remember when I said that you can't carve rotten wood?  Well,  it looks like you're doing a heck of a job in carving it.  LOL

Blake

I guess I have to wait to see if the wood carving turns into something recognizable!

If in doubt test the ring before assy with a screw driver to be sure the magnetic side of the ring faces the hall effect sensor.

Carl Tuveson posted:

If in doubt test the ring before assy with a screw driver to be sure the magnetic side of the ring faces the hall effect sensor.

Thank you Carl!  I’ll give it a go.

Blake

Interesting factoid.  The new rings they're shipping now don't have the dimples, but they have a red dot painted on one side.  That side goes away from the sensor, the magnets are on the other side.

gunrunnerjohn posted:

Interesting factoid.  The new rings they're shipping now don't have the dimples, but they have a red dot painted on one side.  That side goes away from the sensor, the magnets are on the other side.

The ring that I got doesn’t even have a red dot on it,  but it was suggested that I find the magnetic side using a small screwdriver and mount that side facing the sensor.  I’ll try that as well.

Blake

If it doesn't have the dot or the dimples, then I'd do the screwdriver test.  Yes, the magnetic side faces the sensor.

 

gunrunnerjohn posted:

If it doesn't have the dot or the dimples, then I'd do the screwdriver test.  Yes, the magnetic side faces the sensor.

Well guess what,  I’m not getting the required 5 volts across the sensor board and all continuity is present.  I did all the resets as well.  I guess Ill be going for CCM from ERR.  Do you know if ERR got all the bugs worked out with their newer CCM’s?  Remember,  you had to send mine back because of a firmware issue.

Blake

I suspect only Scott at 3rd Rail can answer that question.  AFAIK, they have it sorted out, but I'm just a guy in the chain.

gunrunnerjohn posted:

I suspect only Scott at 3rd Rail can answer that question.  AFAIK, they have it sorted out, but I'm just a guy in the chain.

Alrighty then!  As far as I know,  that Kline pacific that you repaired for me hasn’t had any issues so far.  We’ll see what happens.  Thanks for the help John!

Blake

I have replaced the magnetic ring on the flywheel (magnetic/smooth edge to sensor) and I am trying to find the right position or gap between the ring and the pickup.. the RS-11 I have still does not have any speed control .. can anyone share what that gap may be rather then me do trial and error?  Or can anyone give me a suggestion on a next step .. I did reprogram the R2LC boars to restore all features, just in case..

@Larry Martin posted:

I have replaced the magnetic ring on the flywheel (magnetic/smooth edge to sensor) and I am trying to find the right position or gap between the ring and the pickup.. the RS-11 I have still does not have any speed control .. can anyone share what that gap may be rather then me do trial and error?  Or can anyone give me a suggestion on a next step .. I did reprogram the R2LC boars to restore all features, just in case..

Sometimes if you had a failed magnet, the sensor takes the hit for the team,….a lot of us don’t even bother attempting to fix that antiquated system,….when it fails, most of us opt for Cruise M, and do away with the Oddesy oddities,…..M is a much better ( and easier install ) than trying to breathe life into Oddesy,….

Pat

It could also be the sensor as Pat suggests, the wiring between the sensor board and DCDS can be broken, and of course the DCDS can fail and cause the same symptoms.