Most Efficient O scale Train Display size?

No matter the size, make sure you fasten it securely to the studs.  

Is the 18" dimension is shelf height or height between shelves, or what ?

(seems like an awful lot for height between shelves)

I'm probably not understanding, though.

'Preach on it' for me. 

This display is 72" X 31". The display shelves are spaced 5"

Additional shelves spaced 5".

Thx Mike, that looks great.

I was going to use about 6" spacing between shelves but the 5" looks great too. I wanted to have enough room to be able to place and remove locos easily with 6" spacing.

My cases need to be easily removable for future move.

Given you are in California, The Earthquake State.

I would consider glass doors or a guardrail to keep train on the shelves, during the big one.

Doors also reduce the need to dust as often and help keep uninvited hands off.

Don't forget to allow for the thickness of the shelves. Assuming a material thickness of 3/4", the overall height would need to be 21". This allows for three shelves with full 6" height (18") and three inches of total material thickness for the top, bottom and the two shelves. 

i can attest that glass doors do not keep dust off models.

you haven't mentioned depth.  you have 8" lumber (7.25" actual).  that's very deep for a single layer.  two suggestions... rip it down the middle to have a fraction over 3.5" deep shelves or keep the whole board depth but at the rear of the shelf add a 1" step.  you will lose some visibility with the rear row, but you will be able to pack more models into the same space.

regardless of what you decide, as long as you are using 1" (3/4" actual) shelf material, use a router or table saw to cut track grooves into the shelves.  it will greatly help display alignment and help hold the models to the shelf in case of a slight shake.

i would make the shelf length the longest possible, though any shelf material must be supported every 2 - 3 feet or else you will eventually get sagging.  you have already put your finger on the problem of shelf length... unless you have a good deal of similar items (ie: a 6464 boxcar collection) it is next to impossible to display an assortment of equipment (especially modern scale) without spacing gaps.

gaps in model spacing can be minimized with other rolling stock (many cabooses are well under 10"), low signals, small structures or people that can complement a purely locomotive display.

true it is your own home display but you may also consider mounting text cards with model information for guests or just your own recollection.  this also helps display a model more fully.  if you have the pilot of a steam locomotive butted right up against a side panel, much of the detail of a 3/4 front view is lost.  leave 3-4" in front of the model for a data card and you have a reason to leave that viewing gap.

good luck...gary

All great info. I guess I'll have to make one and give it a try.

I have to get my table saw up and running for routing the rail grooves in, need a good blade for that one, good excuse to go back to the tool shop....

My shelves are 6" high.  Each shelf has twin grooves at flange spacing, deep enough so tread rests on wood.  The face is about 1 1/2" high with a shallow groove up, deep groove down.  Plexiglas strips are then slid into the upper groove and allowed to drop into the lower groove.

Looks like someone went shopping in HArbor Freight!

Sam,

I wrote out all my measurements and headed out to my Home Depot. I had the lumber sales clerk layout and cut all of my pieces. Including the grooves for the wheels of my Std & O-Gauge pieces. All of the cutting was not as expensive as you would think. I helped the clerk lay everything out and stack the pieces. It took over three hours for which I was charged an additional $22.75. All I had to do at home was assemble everything.

I see, so you have a Plexiglas for each shelf sepreratly? do you mind telling me how much was each plexiglas shelf cost and did they cut it for you or you did? Thx.

LOL...I went to Sears and saw that they had a $599 similar saw for sale at $340 plus tax, 8.75%...I almost bought it but it was too much, so I headed over HF and they had a sale coming up next week but the saw was $135...I asked the clerk if he can apply the Future sale today, he agreed with a smile....$111 for an awesome saw...Luckily I had a great 12" 80 tooth blade (not included with saw). They also gave me three free items....

In the name of everything dear to me, I can't figure out how they make these things soooo cheap AND still make a profit with having physical stores, no mail order only sites????? ( they do  mail order too)

i made s few practice cuts and the saw is good, no dynamic breaking like the sears but for 1/3 of the cost, I am cool with it.

So, I saved over $200 which now will go to complete my set of SD70Ace!

If this is not an addiction, I don't know what is

OK, good they did that for few $$...

For the $120 w/tax for the saw, I think it is good long term de-vestment, a good excuse to add another tool...Can you tell I am also a tool junky as much as a train junky

Now the whole family has many wood projects for me to do around the house.....Shucks!!!!

Safety meeting of the day  No machine made, has any respect for a human being.  I heard that at least once a week as a young adult on the farm.  Same still applies, be careful.  

Table saw, add-on.  If you are uncomfortable with a cut, find another way.

 Mike CT

The cut to length shelf sections were done for $1 per cut before they were shipped.

Glenn Snyder Display Systems  Click on the underlined phrase to link.

BigBoy4014

I built mine out of 1x4's, with grooves cut into the shelf top's to match the wheel flanges. This makes it very easy to line up the engines and cars and keep them in place.

I have three such sets of shelves, and each one's length was made to either fit the rolling stock I wanted to display, or the space available. The 5-inch distance I used between the shelves (actual opening) works fine. 

(Click on pictures for better details.)

Spacers (1/4" thick) between the shelves provide support for the shelves above the bottom shelf.

Support for all consists of a 1x2" with three heavy, long screws into the wall studs. This 1x2 is attached to the bottom shelf only, and the thinner spacers between the shelves hold the other shelves at the centers.

To keep the shelves firmly against the wall, not to support them, I used three or more angles brackets fastened to the top shelves and the wall.

The shelves fit into grooves in the sides (dado cutter), and this provides ample support for the shelves.

I added a piece of plexiglass (may be acrylic) to one set of shelves. The glass slides on aluminum angles attached to the sides, and can go all the way down to clear the shelves. It works fine.

Here is the last one I built.

Good luck!

Alex

Thx Alex, looks great....

I got some more wood today and once the assembling of saw table and building its table are finished, I will start making saw dust...we will see how it goes...All great ideas ya all, keep 'em coming