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Here's what worked for me:

PARTS
- Package of four 3" L-Brackets, including screws
- Nylon wire-tie (or ties, if too short connect 2 or more together). I used 24" ties.


DIRECTIONS
- Mount the L-Brackets loosely, 1 & 1/2" apart for Z-500, 2 & 1/2" for Z-1000, with the "L" part of the bracket that sticks out on the bottom (like a shelf).

- Slide a nylon wire tie behind the loose brackets, between the bracket mounting screws.

- Tighten the 4 bracket screws.

- Place the Z-500 or Z-1000 on the brackets, then cinch the wire tie around the brick firm, but NOT tight. Cinch slowly, testing your ability to slip it over the top (for removal/replacement).

- Cut the excess wire tie end and discard.


POSITIVE ATTRIBUTES
- Simple to build
- Minimal parts

- Very sturdy, even for the Z-1000

- Holds very firmly, including no possibility of sliding left or right
- Inexpensive
- Easy access to reset switch
- No modifications or damage to brick
- Plenty of ventilation

 

FOR MOUNTING UNDER A TABLE (Not vertical as shown)

- Add a 1" nylon spacer held in with a 1 & 1/2" screw (depending on board thickness)

- See last picture. Use two spacers if more support desired.

- Holds in every axis, and only requires removal of a single screw for brick removal.

 

(Note: I shot these pictures to help understand my directions, but the upward angle I used makes their mounting look shoddy. However, from a normal face-on view, the brackets aren't visible and the wire tie is straight, though they appear crooked in these pictures).

 

IMG_20140806_152943053

IMG_20140806_162008649

IMG_20140806_165148213_HDR

IMG_20140806_171409061_HDR

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Images (4)
  • IMG_20140806_152943053
  • IMG_20140806_162008649
  • IMG_20140806_165148213_HDR
  • IMG_20140806_171409061_HDR
Last edited by Dave_R

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