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Thought I would post some pictures as this was an interesting repair to upgrade the bad 5V board to the 3V.  The 5V board is upside down and has to fit between the metal wire guide.  Because the rectifier is positioned towards the front connectors, positioning the heat sink for the 3V rectifier required the heat sink to be positioned in the opposite direction.

 

After some trial measurements, I hung the 3V board inverted from the metal wire bracket.  I modified the original 5V heat sink to attach to the 3V rectifier and face rearward.  I drilled and tapped 3mm holes so I could properly attach it to the frame.  It was a neat fit since the rear of the guide is raised with spacers, and this allowed me to slip the heat sink under the wire guide and direct attach to the frame.

 

Replaced speaker, added new charge port and mounted new battery with double sided tape and tie wrap for extra security.  Rerouted wires as originally placed.  G 

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Originally Posted by Ralph4014:
Looks great. I've had to get creative quite a few times with some engines I've put full upgrade kits in also. The  toughest one I did was a K-line tank engine. I'll have to find pics and post them.

Again nice job!

Ralph

I'd like to see the K-Line Tank Engine upgrade, I have a pending question about doing an upgrade on one of those!   I was wondering how the board set would fit, it appears it could be tight in there.  With no tether, I'd think maybe a diesel kit makes more sense than the steamer kit.

 

 

Originally Posted by GGG:

Thought I would post some pictures as this was an interesting repair to upgrade the bad 5V board to the 3V.  The 5V board is upside down and has to fit between the metal wire guide.  Because the rectifier is positioned towards the front connectors, positioning the heat sink for the 3V rectifier required the heat sink to be positioned in the opposite direction.

Thanks for this picture sequence, I have one of those, and I imagine it's only a matter of time before I have to do something similar.

 

Originally Posted by RJR:

GGG, unlike the Mohawk I spoke of a few weeks ago, the loco you show has access to the board.  On a steamer, the drivers block access.

RJR, I just looked at MTH instructions for a 5V RK Mohawk with the board in the engine.  I am pretty sure it fits and I think I did a locosound conversion.

I believe the engine shell has the clear insulator inside.  I would mount the board upside down just like the 5V with the connectors oriented the same way.  This puts the 3V rectifier forward towards the smoke unit.  I am pretty sure there is a screw hole or 2 there.  At least the chassis mounted regulator hole.  This is where the heat sink would mount.  The board will be fine upside down on a single heat sink mount.  Once the shell is in place the board is pretty stable.  G

 

GRJ, I beg to differ.  This thread is about updating 5-volt boards to 3-volt boards, which are different physically.

 

GGG: I'm sure it can be made to fit. No question. I agree a single heat sink mount is adequate.  The chassis mounted regulator hole was under the smoke unit, which had to be unfastened for access.  The lesser accessibility make it harder.

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