My final track plan.

I think you need to add a pair of switches to exit the the inside loop without backing up.

A elevated line would add interest and another train run.

Yep, a pair of turnouts on the right side, connecting the two loops would assist a lot in enter/exit inner loop.    It would also allow a by pass when switching on the side tracks on the right and bottom sections. 

Jesse

AHHHHHH  the final track plan is never final! : )

You can smooth out the flow into the sidings by moving switches from the straight portions of the mainlines to the curves.  It will remove the "S" curves and [lengthen the sidings.  Also some tracks will be closer freeing up some space.

What software did you use and can you post the file?

Jan

I used scarm.

As mentioned above, the bottom siding can be started on the right side curve, then run straight into the bottom left corner. The left hand siding can be started on the curve and run straight up the side. This will eliminate the curve on the industrial sidings, which end up causing uncoupling issues. (it is difficult to couple or uncouple cars on a curve in O-gauge).

The inside sidings can be started prior to the curve, rather than after the curves, thus increasing the length of the siding without taking up any more space.

Looks like a good switching layout.

I would try to incorporate a reverse loop.  As it is now the train(s) can only travel in one direction.

This looks like fun IF:

1. You are intending to build a toy train layout (loop runner) with several operating accessories, and

2. You are building it high enough so that you can crawl under to the doughnut hole you will need in the middle to reach the occasional derailment or maintenance issue.

Good luck,

Chuck

I agree 100% with Chuck.  ALSO, disregard if you are building a toy train layout or a just run them layout.

If you are building a model of a railroad I can't tell you if you have a good track plan or not.  Because in order to do that I would need to know: Who (name) this railroad is(even if you made it up), where it is located, why (purpose) is it, what it is doing (freight--what kind?, passenger service) and very most importantly what you and others will be doing to interact with it versus just standing there and watching.

There is nothing wrong with a toy train layout, or a display layout, or a realistic setup.

Regardless, it would be very helpful to know exactly what your design intentions are prior to judging a track arrangement.

Lastly, whatever this is suppose to be, ensure that EVERYTHING is within 30 inches of reach.  Access openings should be 24" in diameter.  Climbing on a layout is a terrible idea and sooner or later will become an issue.  Trust me.  Be there, done that, have the T-shirt. 

The name is the Pennsylvania and southern short line railroad. It's a local freight and interchanges with Pennsylvania and Northfolk and southern. It also has a local passenger. It is meant to be a TOY train layout so operating accessories are going to be a big part.

My original O had those wonderful operating accessories.  Just be sure you can reach everything without ducking, crawling or climbing on your table.  You will be glad that you did that.  :-)

I played with your plan to remove the "S" curves and got a little carried away.  All mainline curves and switches are O36.  There's a long passing siding where you can store a train.  I would think about adding a exit route from the O48 inter loop.

Jan

Okay,  Just too much time on my hands.

Thanks I appreciate the help I was redoing my layout to incorporate 036 switches for the mainline but it seems if you done it for me.

Your are welcome.

I left the O31s for the sidings as they save some space.

Jan

Okay...well this is embarrassing how do download a Scram file....

Right click.  Save As...

Thanks for all your help on the layout!

Looks good. Not entirely different from my 8' x 11' layout currently under construction. Not a lot of scenery, just operating trains and accessories.

At the yard on the extreme right eliminate the wave into the inner track by removing the two switches.  Keep the outer track and make it straight and have a switch from the lower mainline lead into it.  To do so you must eliminate the two bumpers at the bottom and the tracks leading to them.  There is no access to those two points anyway and you would only need to remove two 10 inch sections, but you will have a functioning 2 track yard.  Take a look at my subway yard.