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I have had a long history trying to come up with a vacuum car that would actually vacuum the track. My first model shown below was a combination vacuum/ balast-er car made from an Allis Chalmers car, that had some height over the tracks to fit the vacuum and the spreader. This car was pre-3D laser printing and laser cutter. There was a 9V battery in the front end  that powered a small impeller. and a pipe in the rear to hold an spread ballast.

vac ballast2vac ballast1

vac ballast

Sad to say that this did not work out. However, Lee Willis' vacuum car using a portable MooSoo vacuum was enlightening. So I set out to design a car to fit the vacuum and like Lee's have spaces for the battery charger and other accessories to ride with the car. I wanted the vacuum to be removable so I could use it beyond the tracks.

I needed to create a car that could fit the MooSoo. The car would be laser cut out of 1/4" clear acrylic. I needed a scoop attachment to the MooSoo to make a right-angle turn down to the tracks; that I 3D laser printed.

For fun I added a rear control dome, with a space for an operator to sit in front of a control panel with four(4) screens (fake not real) to view the track; illuminated with four lights again pointed  doing to the tracks ( real).  Below is the cardboard laser cut mock-up. I cut in cardboard before committing to expensive  acrylic. (Covid has made acrylic costly and scarce.)

vac car 1

Below is the Scoop attachment. Note the brush that comes with the MooSoo attaches to the scoop to loosed the dust before the vacuum. A bit of over-kill since the MooSoo is real powerful!

vac car 2

Here are the various rear end dome control areas I designed and discarded; the last one is attached to the cardboard mock-up. As I said, I plan and cut first in cardboard before laser printing the acrylic. Each dome has 4 front lights and two top  blinking LEDs not yet wired; see the mini pipe where the wires will be inserted going up to the LEDs.

vac car 3

These are drawings from Rhino6 of the items to be 3D printed in relation to the Acrylic to be laser cut.

vac car 1 [1)

vac car 2 [1)

See fake monitor screens on the panel.

vac car 3 [1)

vac car 4 [1)

Here is closeup of the front MooSoo hold down, it too has two blinking LEDs that will be wired from the below c-slot. Both front and rear trucks have pick-ups where the wires will move in the c-slots.

vac car 6

For side  panels, I first designed a truss (top) but later designed side panels to resemble  UP's EC-4. (Below.)  The EC-4 text over the "futuristic arrows"  is TODAY'S DATA, TOMORROW'S TECHNOLOGY" not  the usual "Building America."

up EC -4

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The panels will be cut from yellow acrylic and fit into the line of slots on either side of the MooSoo. The Arrows logo will be cut in vinyl  or a sticker from a Silhouette or Cricut. (Haven't decided which)

Next step  is cutting the Acrylic. I'll be back.

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My not sophisticated Moosoo vacuum and magnet gondola.

I shortened the handle without disturbing the on off switch.   I put the little black cover back on the end.

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I used the original straight rubber suction piece by cutting the rubber so as to bend it in an approximate 90 degree angle.    I made the opening facing the rear truck after removing the coupler.     I did surround the area somewhat to concentrate suction at the middle of the truck for best suction on curves.

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I wanted to make a simple system for removal as the Moosoo needs to be charged with it's charging station.  I just used two velcro strips and a piece of very light material to help deflect exhaust air.     I also modified parts of the gondola to cradle the vacuum better because of those fin looking thing-a-mabobs.

The length ends up being 14.5 inches .   I have no trouble with several parts of the layout having O31 curves.

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DAVE......if you make one of these things.....make it pretty

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@Clarko posted:

From what I've been reading, the MooSoo K12 runs on 12VDC. I would assume with a rectifier to go from AC track to DC vacuum and a voltage regulator (or running at 12v conventionally) that you could power this from the track. Seems like a neat idea!

But it's a brushless motor, and depending on the speed extremely high amperage draw. Realize that on high it drains the 18650 a cells depending on the exact type capable of somewhere between 10-30A of current.

So no, a 12V regulator from a variable track voltage is not really practical, and while you in theory could charge one, the circuit is specifically designed to not run and charge at the same time.

I wanted to remotely control the vacuum. I could not figure out a way to start and stop the vacuum using the coil coupler circuit on the mini commander 2 to operate a simple plunger to activate the vacuum on-off switch.

I resin printed and laser cut the UP EC-4 parts but could not add the on-off controller to the vacuum.



EC details3

if I can figure out how to mount the plunger I'd be done.EC-4 1 [2)



EC-4 3D wiring

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My hacked out variation. Not pretty, I'm not in any way saying this is the best way, just the way I did it. I took the unit completely apart, removed the original battery, added a connector, and used aluminum strips and some spare trucks to make the unit.

AKA- minimalist design.



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Last edited by Vernon Barry

But it's a brushless motor, and depending on the speed extremely high amperage draw. Realize that on high it drains the 18650 a cells depending on the exact type capable of somewhere between 10-30A of current….

You make great points! Hadn’t thought about the high demand, especially at startup. I will see what it takes to run it directly on one of our power supply/ammeter setups at work, bypassing the internal batteries, when my $30 shipped eBay one arrives. Thanks for the input, Vernon!

@Clarko posted:

You make great points! Hadn’t thought about the high demand, especially at startup. I will see what it takes to run it directly on one of our power supply/ammeter setups at work, bypassing the internal batteries, when my $30 shipped eBay one arrives. Thanks for the input, Vernon!

By all means, happy hacking. It's not a bad platform, the entire motor assembly could be put into your own design of housing and so forth, you could repackage the components and make a shorter unit and more sized and shaped for our use as a track cleaner.

I am greatly impressed by @AlanRail's design and the details and lengths he is going to. I was inspired by this entire topic to build mine some time ago.

Sorry, wish I had taken more pictures while taking apart. Used a picture to show the how and where to begin accessing the screws. There is also a screw under the charging cap if I remember right?

I hadn't considered removing the fin looking  "thing - a - mabobs"  Vern.

Screenshot_20221026-080118Screenshot_20221026-080016

Does this fin removal affect the efficiency of the Moosoo or was this just a styling exercise ?    If the vacuum is not affected by removing that area then I have an idea for a shorter railcar design.    I can't wait to get started on this project.

I really like how simple your design ends up being.    I have to keep the Moosoo horizontaly situated for my tunnel portals and overhead bridges.

Thanks for sharing.

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#1 mine clears my bridges just barely but clears them. That was the intent of the angle and shortening of the vac using as much original as possible. My bridge http://www.lionel.com/products...russ-bridge-6-82110/

#2 Correct, that plastic molding that emulates the look of a cyclone style vac (Dyson) has nothing and I mean nothing to do with airflow. It's simply cosmetic housing around the battery.

#3 The battery was directly soldered to the control board wiring with no connector. I cut the wiring, insulated it one side at a time to prevent any chance of shorting the battery, removed the battery, removed the housing, and then put easy connectors (XT60) battery connectors on the battery leads. The battery pack does have a BMS (Battery Management System) PCB on the end to balance the cells during charging and perform other BMS functions.

#4 As you can see also, I removed the control button with LED indicator from the handle. It is is plug in already with a long enough wire for remote mounting.

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