Need a set of remote turnouts for o27

I have two right and two left manual 027 switches that I never used if you can use them. I was going to integrate them on my O gauge layout but don’t have the room.

Dan

I also have the brown colored manual o27 switches as mentioned but I'd like to have them remote.

You might look at Marx 1590 switches which have a small foot print and are widely available at low costs.  They also do not have lights on switches or controllers and a pair of mini push button switches will work with them.

Charlie

@Roddyrex posted:

...a set of the original 1122's which have the insulated track built in and apparently cause a lot of stalling issues...

Use the 1122(E) switches that followed the original issue 1122 models. They use insulating pins like the 022 to eliminate the troublesome built-in insulated rail segments, as well as a few other improvements(the two actually share very few parts in common).  These were also issued as 5121/5122 & 65121/65122 pairs after 1970 with the brown bases like the manual types you have now.

I used to have a pair years ago, and I mean YEARS ago! LOL! Let me see if I still have them, you will have to provide the wire, but I'm pretty sure I have the remotes. If I do their yours for postage. I don't plan on ever using them again. But first I have to find them.

So I ended up purchasing a pair of the 5121/5122's and upon opening them to wire for constant voltage the coil wire is really tight and too short to pull out as the lionel video shows of course so it looks like I'll be drilling out some rivets to access them. 🤬🤬🤬 Also the controllers that they came with have a green and red jewel lens for a light but there's no actual light or socket inside!! WTH??

@Roddyrex posted:

So I ended up purchasing a pair of the 5121/5122's and upon opening them to wire for constant voltage the coil wire is really tight and too short to pull out as the lionel video shows...

There are other methods. This is the 1122, but yours are similar.

That's great!! Thanks for your help Rob, I'll try that method this weekend 👍

@Roddyrex posted:

Also the controllers that they came with have a green and red jewel lens for a light but there's no actual light or socket inside!! WTH??

@Roddyrex,

You're probably not aware of this but this issue has come up many, many times before.

In it's later days, as a cost-cutting move, Lionel Corp. sold these switch sets with controllers that didn't have lamps, or sockets for the lamps.

Mike

@Mellow Hudson Mike posted:

In it's later days, as a cost-cutting move, Lionel Corp. sold these switch sets with controllers that didn't have lamps, or sockets for the lamps.

Not really a cost cutting move. These modified 022c controllers were furnished with 1122L & 1122R single switches only.  1122 pairs always had the illuminated two-lever controllers. If the bulbs were used in the 022 controllers with the 1122 switches, both coils would remain energized at all times.

@ADCX Rob posted:

Not really a cost cutting move. These modified 022c controllers were furnished with 1122L & 1122R single switches only.  1122 pairs always had the illuminated two-lever controllers. If the bulbs were used in the 022 controllers with the 1122 switches, both coils would remain energized at all times.

Sorry.  My mistake.

To me and most people who've commented on this issue in the past in several threads the lamps are clearly a missing feature that at one time added value, although perhaps only for O22's, and then didn't.  @Roddyrex has expressed concern over this apparent "loss" in his post.

As far as the coils being energized, they are part of the circuit in two ways (and remember that all of this is done over just three wires per switch):

1. When the controller lever is moved to throw the switch, the corresponding lamp is shunted and full power is applied to the corresponding switch coil to cause it to move, if it's not already in the desired position beforehand.
2. When the controller lever is in the center position (not moved) the corresponding lamp is in series with the switch coil, allowing it to light, but not supplying enough current to the corresponding coil to activate (energize?) it.

I don't see how separate vs. combined-in-one-housing for the controllers affects this.  How could both coils be energized (you mean at full power I assume) at all times?

Two controllers in one housing are just two single controllers side by side, with no electrical interaction between them.

Am I missing something?

Mike

@Mellow Hudson Mike posted:

Am I missing something?

Yes.

The bleed current through the bulb is correct - not enough to throw the switch but enough to light the lamp, at just about track voltage(save for the relatively low coil resistance).  The 1122c & 1121c controllers bleed the current for the controller illumination from just one of the four switch coils in the pair. If a 022c controller with bulbs is used, that current is bleeding through both switch coils, posing an overheating condition that Lionel wanted to avoid with the O27 switches, so they omitted the bulb sockets for the "single" controller packed(most often seen in the clear "blister" packs) with the 1122R & 1122L.

The overheating issue is compounded when it's considered that once the controllers leave the factory, they have very little control over which bulbs the end user will put in those sockets. Even if the wrong bulb is put in the 1122c controller, it can cause unintended operation of the switch.

This isn't an issue when used with 022 switches, as one coil is always shut off completely by the sliding contact switches built into them.

@Choo Choo Charlie posted:

You might look at Marx 1590 switches which have a small foot print and are widely available at low costs.  They also do not have lights on switches or controllers and a pair of mini push button switches will work with them.

Charlie

I second that recommendation.  They are easy to refurbish and are very reliable.  Power with auxiliary power.

John