Need help activating and placement of a Lionel scale semaphore

At the bottom of web page, Toy Train Layout Wiring - Switches, Page 1  see instructions for the Track Trip that is almost invisible.

The position governs the track block or blocks ahead of the signal.   So anything from stop(red)  then  proceed at restricted speed.  Approach (yellow)  reduce speed and be prepared to stop at the next signal..  Clear..(green)  away you go track at  speed.

We had a permanent" yellow" on one of the subs  approaching a swing bridge. 

If I understand your question Z stuff's DZ-1008 relay attaches to the DZ-1000 switch machine and provides relay-contacts that reflect the switch position.  This relay could then activate your semaphore.

What about insulated-rail triggering like the Lionel 153E?   One useful feature of most IR detectors is a time delay which both suppresses intermittent operation and keeps the signal active for some settable period after the train clears the detector.   This feature is also useful for any localized detector such as the invisible track trip method suggested earlier.

There are IR detector alternatives that place the optical sensors in the track bed aiming upwards.  This makes it less obtrusive than the trackside structure of 153IR-like detectors.

Thanks, I was looking at Z stuff's web site and looks like there are many options to consider.

Well I was looking to wire this bad boy up this past week end and of course I packed the boxes up and they are up in the attic hidden with the Arc of the Covenant... Can anyone direct me to how wire the 3 wires?

red is power to the motor- block activation

black is power to the light

white is ground to the light

how do I hook these up?

Thanks,

Well I hate to answer my own questions here but after some research I was able to hook up the semaphore as described below. Unfortunately, though the light goes out when the arm travels down. Is this the way its supposed to work?

J Daddy,

   Looks like your track activation is working correctly per Lionel, both the other FasTrack Signal/Gate Systems I have seen loose the light, when the gate comes down, I ask about this exact same thing ,cause in reality, that is when the USS signal solid and blinking lights should really be light up and blinking.  I do not know if you can alter the wiring in some way, on your FasTrack connections to make it work as the Union Switch & Signal real engineering does.  I am currently looking into this auto Signal gate myself, if I can not make it work with the lights on when the gate is down, I will not install it on my layout.  My understanding is the MAS 6-12029 is the key to they entire system.

Got to admit the FT signal/gate does look cool & seems to work correctly, except for the light.  

PCRR/Dave

Dave,

Thank you for the confirmation that I am not going crazy.

I here you. I will not be purchasing any more. Not sure what they were thinking.

Has anyone been able to keep the light on while the flag travels down with different wiring or sensors?

J Daddy,

   It's almost like the unit is wired backwards, however I do believe the electrical power flow may not be able to be reversed hence the backwards operational lights.

PCRR/Dave

J Daddy: I'm just going on memory, but I had three semaphores working nicely back on my Ohio layout. The ground and light (black + white0 wires need to be powered at all times, and the "red" "motor' control wire needs to be wired to a "NO" stud on a 12V relay which I used for all my accessory activation needs.

 Naturally, a insulated control rail was used to activate the relay itself.

Perhaps not your version but it appears Lionel at one time had the technology to keep the light on when the semaphore drops... 

from youtube:

Just to answer the questions above...

Yes I reversed the polarity and the the light still goes out.

D&H 65-

"I'm just going on memory, but I had three semaphores working nicely back on my Ohio layout. The ground and light (black + white0 wires need to be powered at all times, and the "red" "motor' control wire needs to be wired to a "NO" stud on a 12V relay which I used for all my accessory activation needs."

I did the first step with the black and white wire - the 12 volt relay I did not own one ... suggestions?

The semaphore works fine its just the light does not light after the arm travels down. I am not sure a 12 volt relay will change this?

Stan-

Yes - the hook up for the older semaphores are different...

Out of curiosity then, on the "new" design does the dropping semaphore physically rotate a different colored lens over the lamp when active?  If so, then since one presumes there is provision to replace a burned-out bulb, then you should be able to go in and re-wire the bulb to always get power from black/white (or at worst add a 4th wire to do so).

I'm no expert on signaling but it seems to me that the light should always be on such as for night operation when you can't see the semaphore arm position?

J Daddy & Stan: The light should remain lit at all times as the blade drops from the free aspect to the yellow to the red aspect. It is independent of the arm movement. If the light goes out during blade movement, I wonder if the operating rod is somehow rubbing and thus shorting the feed wire when the operating rod moves(????).

The relay I use was a radio Shack common item - a 12VDC relay rated @ 10A @ 120V. Mine are in a blue plastic case about 5/8" X 1/2" X 1/2" high. It has "NO" + "NC" contacts + 12V power in leads for relay activation from a rectifier pod. The leads are perfect for mounting to a piece of PC board which I also used to mount the rectifier pod.

no, no electrical short of any kind. The motor has a slight hum when the blade travels down which is normal. Just the light goes out when the blade moves. Like I say not sure, but it seems like that is just how this one is designed to operate. 

I will hook it up to a spare IR detector I have and see if I get the same results....