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I am having a bad case of CRS, and I've forgotten how to fix this issue:  I have 11 Ross switches and I am activating them by the push button switch as well as the DCS remote.  Four of the switches don't align with the arrow indicators on the DCS remote.  In other words, if the switch is in the straight-through position and I want to change the direction, I have to push the button on the remote that corresponds with the straight arrow instead of the bent arrow.  Once activated, I need to select the bent arrow button to return the switch to the straight position.

 

I have attached a simple schematic of my wiring, one for a double switch connection and one for a single switch hookup.  I have tried every combination I can think of to configure the connections so that they will match the remote's command, with no luck. The wiring on the AIU has not been modified because I flipped that connection at the switch end.  The LEDs have been switched around as necessary on the switch motors to match the switch direction, and the push button switches' LEDs have been changed to indicate the switch direction.  However, the LEDs on the push buttons that control the switches in question are reversed in relation to the other switches that operate correctly.  The correct switches have the green LED on top (the opposite end of where the wires enter the housing).

 

I have consulted the Ross diagrams, the DCS manual, the AIU manual, and Barry's book, but can't seem to find the answer to this question of how to align the switch with the remote's correct direction symbol, so if you can help I would very much appreciate it.  Thanks in advance.

 

Mike

 

 (Terminal blocks are used to simplify the physical wiring of the switches)

SWITCH WIRING FOR FORUM

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MdMikey,

 

On your track diagram you show bolt wires going to inside switch track.
 
I think you need to remove the going to the left in side track where track meet going from one to the other
 
Its looks like you may be crossing  polarity's is the best way to explain it.        
 
That's why it may not be working right. 
 
Please let me know how you make out Good luck. John

Gregg's first sentence is correct.  Get the controller and the switches accurate first.  Then turn to hooking up the AIU.  If remote has arrows wrong, reverse the terminals 1 & 2 at the AIU.  Do not change the connections between the switch controller and the switch motor once you have the DZ1000 set correctly.  The DZ1000 switch motor has diodes inside, so the leads go only one way.  

 

I'm in the process of changing over my old switch motors to DZ1000's.  My standard is that, to throw the switch, I want to press the button by the light that is unlit, which means about half the controllers I have to switch the bulbs around.

Last edited by RJR

I have close to 100 DZ1000 switch motors on my layout, powering Ross and Gargraves turnouts. Each motor may be actuated by either an AIU SW port or DZ1002 pushbutton controller.

 

My process for wiring correct button/LED operation is as follows:

  • Connect the DZ1000 motor's middle terminal to accessory Hot
  • Connect the other two wires, temporarily, to the two outside terminals (or wires) on a DZ1002 controller
  • Connect the middle terminal or wire on the DZ1002 to accessory Common
  • Activate the switch track using the controller. If the buttons operate the switch track in the direction opposite of what's desired, reverse the two outside wires either at the DZ1000 or the DZ1002, but not at both. Then secure the wires permanently
  • If the correct color LED isn't next to the button that you desire, swap the LEDs in their sockets on the DZ1002
  • If the LED on the controller associated with a button doesn't light when pressing the button, remove the LED from its socket on the DZ1002, rotate it 180 degrees and reinsert it. It may be necessary to ream out the socket slightly to reinsert the LED.

If you desire to also activate the switch track from an AIU, continue below:

  • Connect the IN terminal of an AIU SW port to accessory Common
  • Connect the two outside terminals of either the DZ1000 or the DZ1002 to the same AIU SW port's terminals 1 and 2
  • Program the switch track into the AIU
  • Activate the switch track from the AIU. If it throws correctly, you're done. If it throws reversed, reverse the wires at the AIU SW port's terminals 1 and 2.

Note that if the DZ1002 is used to control Lionel Super O switch tracks, as I've done on my layout, a pushbutton will always light the opposite LED. You cannot easily correct this.

 

If the switch tracks are also wired for automatic non-derailing operation and use accessory power, you must  properly phase the track power and accessory power transformers with respect to one another, and connect a Common wire between them.

Last edited by Barry Broskowitz

Thanks so much, everyone, for your replies.  I think I have it figured out due to your responses.

 

I matched up all wiring colors per directions from each product.  In my previous layout, this worked fine, with the exception of switching wires when necessary to get the LED colors coordinated with the switch.  Also, I didn't care which location the LEDs on the controllers ended up.  This time, however, I want everything to be right.

 

Gregg, I have relocated several switch machines for various reasons and switched the yellow and green wires as necessary, along with the LEDs on the switch machine.  I'm sure that's throwing off the alignment.

 

John, it's interesting that you mention the connection of the anti-derailing wires.  When I bought the Ross switches back in 2005 the instruction sheet that came with the switch showed the connections to the inside rails as I drew in my wiring diagram.  (I still have the sheet.)  I recently purchased another Ross switch, and it shows the hookup as you indicate, so I guess it doesn't matter which rail is used as the switch, but I'm glad you mentioned it.

 

Barry, thanks for the detailed instructions.  From what Gregg said and you confirmed, I need to set up the switch and the controller first.  Then I will wire it to the AIU.

 

Thanks again, guys, for your help.

 

Mike 

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