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You will no doubt get a few opinions but our club uses Gargraves track on cork roadbed over plywood. Then glued on ballast. Pretty effective. Most all you hear here is metal wheels on metal rail.

Pete

Welcome aboard!  You can use the search feature to find postings on this very topic, there have been many.  Short answer is "Homasote" between the track with or without cork or rubber roadbed and the 1/2 ply will help to deaden sound.  How quiet do you want it figures in verses cost to add the homasote.  The roadbed also helps with the sound.  Lastly if you do a "cookie cutter", rather then a solid top, it can help to lessen sound amplification of the plywood.

Jesse...I moved this to the proper category / forum.  Since you are new, I suggest that you take a look at all of our categories and then post your topic in the one that best fits the main subject of your topic.  In this case, you are talking about planning a layout thus the reason why I moved it here.

Welcome to the forum Jess!

You mentioned that you want to run postwar trains with TMCC. That is possible. I don't have Postwar trains, but I do run a conventional train with command-control. All you need is a Powermaster (TMCC or Legacy) or a TPC300 or 400 per loop of track. The Legacy Powermaster is easiest to find and works with the classic TMCC Cab-1/Base-1 system, the Cab-1L/Base-1L, or the Legacy #990 Cab-2/Base-2 System like I have on my layout. Depending on the transformers you plan on using, you will need a PM Adapter Cable to connect each PM to the transformer outputs. Postwar trains with AC Pullmor Motors use more amperage than modern-era O-Scale trains with DC can motors, so I'd recommend a 180W Powerhouse Brick per loop of track. The 180W PHs output 10A. With a Legacy Powermaster 360 and 2 180W Bricks, you can get up to 20A. Plus, the LPMs and PH Bricks have great circuit protection.

As for the track, you can use either cork or foam roadbed under the track for sound quieting. Screwing or nailing the track down is a good idea, but I have seen people glue the track down, too. You don't need to glue the roadbed down if you use screws or nails; just lay the track on top of the roadbed and secure it. Ballast will help with the noise, too.

One more thing: TMCC will allow you to control any accessories and/or switches from your Cab-1 Remote. You just need SC-2 controllers or TMCC ASCs. You can even control insulated track blocks using TMCC with a BPC.

Good luck with your layout build. If you have any questions, let us know. Also, I'd like to see some pictures of your layout as you build it.