NEW LAYOUT

Robert, I want to make sure I understand. From what you just said and what I've gathered from past discussions. you have the following:
- 1 LT O72 switch
- 1 RT O72 switch
- 1 LT O48 switch
- 2 RT O36 switches
- various other straights and curves???

I believe you also said at some point that you don't want to buy any more switches. Is that all correct?

If so, here's what I see you working with as far as switches go.

2 right o72

1 left o48

2 right o36 

I can buy more tracks.

Sorry, but given the limited number of switches and O72 ovals, I'm not coming up with much. There aren't enough switches to make a double crossover, so that means that once you go from one oval to the other you can't go back without backing up or at least reversing the engine. It's the same with only 1 reversing loop. If you're running diesels that's not so bad, but steamers will be more difficult.

Love that!

might grab 2 left o72 and 1 more left o48. There on sale at the place I get them. Was going to make the o48 elevated after the switch from the center circle.

Okay, Robert, here's a clean version of you buy the 2 O72s and 1 O48 switches. I noticed you didn't include the O36 switches.

As I'm sure you'll notice, I moved the crossovers to the corners on the curves. This will let you run faster speeds and transition through the crossovers without any hint of "S" curves between the switches. You still have the problem of only 1 reversing loop, but at least you'll be able to transition back and forth between mainlines.

I removed o36s but ill just toss them in for a yard since their manuals. Good idea on the corners for o72s.

Well then, try this on for size.

I think this should work and I think you'll be proud.

That's a good way to use what you have and looks like it will work. I'd probably change the 1 3/8, O48 7.5, 1 3/8 and 10 segment following the O48 switch to a 1 3/8, O48 7.5, 1 3/8, 4.5 and 5 for a little better fitment. Of course, there might be enough give for either combination to work.

If I added 1/2" of that foam over my table would knock down the noise of track.

I believe most say the rigid foam doesn’t do much if anything about track noise, it’s mostly for landscaping. Some use carpet padding, others use ceiling tile, carpet, etc. The foam added to the noise level with my RealTrax.

Im waiting for the track in the mail and will send a few when it gets here. Should I grab some of the woodland scenics roll out mat?

I have no experience wit anything but the foam that I used on my Christmas layouts. I intend to switch to GarGraves or Atlas this summer, assuming something doesn’t set me back again.

Worked!! Still got to clean it up but looks pretty good.

Moving right along. 😀

Would putting MTH catenary work on the outer ring if so how many sets would I need? I think they come in 8 packs and spread 20” between posts.

If this is the design you built, the outside Blue line is just over 504". A catenary set with 8 poles/wires is 160" and a set with 4 poles/wires is 80".  Therefore you'd need 3 sets of 8 and 1 set of 4 to give you 560". However, if you added the Gold spur, it's another 120" making the total 624" and you'd need 4 sets of 8 to give you 640", assuming you want to cover both the Blue and Gold lines. I think the calculations are correct, but I could be mistaken.

Sorry just the outer loop would be catenary. Stupid of me not to be more specific. You are the man Dave.  Would it work with fastrak?

MTH description says it works with any track, just can’t use the RealTrax lock-on.

I guess the hard part would be finding it now. 

Robert Cushman posted:

I guess the hard part would be finding it now. 

It looks like JustTrains in Delaware may have some 40-1035 (8) and 40-1036 (4 add-on).

Do you want that for Amtrak engine?  Build your own Northeast Corridor...

Yeah and I got an Acela as well to go with it. Thanks for that.

also what is the distance between posts on the catenary?

Robert Cushman posted:

also what is the distance between posts on the catenary?

Well, the wires are 20”, so on the straights the posts would be 20” apart. However, because they’re outside the outer ring, the arc will be a little larger than the center rail of the tracks, so they’ll be a bit further apart on the curves, but it won’t be by much.

Yeah and I got an Acela as well to go with it. Thanks for that.

also what is the distance between posts on the catenary?

Looks like their out of stock everywhere and not making because the lack of orders eventhouhh they’re in the new catalog. Talked to MTH and a few dealers. Guess I’m out of luck.

Here’s a tread from a few years ago. You might get some ideas from it.

https://ogrforum.com/...oes-anybody-make-one

Dave I got some! I'm trying to figure out a way to throw in a different elevated section o36 at minimum for a subway line on the trestles I have. Big thing is that it cant go over the loops because of the pantographs on Acela and GG1. Also I think I forgot how to upload scarms on here again.

Bob, not sure if this is what you mean, but thought I'd post it to see how close I am and we'll go from there.