OOPS--I'll only make this mistake once!

I applied the raised vent (decals) on my scratch build of a SD70ACe. I taped off an area and ripped them right off when I was done. I should have primed them first. I thought being O scale vents, the primer would hide them too much. Well ripped off hides them better!

We learn....

Ouch!  that 3M blue tape was brutal on those decals!   Glad to hear you have more decals and can recover.

@T.Albers posted:

Ouch!  that 3M blue tape was brutal on those decals!   Glad to hear you have more decals and can recover.

Ditto from me. Masking is not something I have ever come anywhere close to mastering. And wanting to re-do or improve on first efforts is a real hazard!

P.S. You've mentioned the NP domes before and it is nice to see them taking shape. Fine job, Carl.

Carl, temporary setback.  Your colors NP are perfect!   

A tip for all of your next painting endeavors requiring delicate masking, and or multiple colors/striping……3M’s fine line tape part # 06525 is a paper tape, that is not overly aggressive…..3M’s blue painter’s tape is really designed for the latex world ( house painting as we call it) and is very aggressive. Also, use as minimal tape contact to the work piece as possible. I make masks from printer paper for the model railroad stuff, so even 1/4” tape is only on the work piece no more than half. The other trick is to never try to pull straight up on your mask, but roll it back on itself, as you remove the mask, Your workpiece should be properly abated before any top coats are applied, and this will greatly reduce the risk of lift off of top colors. Your base should be abated before primers are applied, then if working on top of primers, they too should be abated before applying any top coat. Paint will not stick to a smooth, slick surface…..period, ….if you attempt to mask a painted surface that’s not properly prepped, you’re almost guaranteed the dreaded lift off,….below pic is 3 different colors and lettering applied in the above mentioned manner,…note the crisp lines, and bold lettering, and as near factory finish as one can get in a DIY setting,…..

Pat

I really admire your efforts to repaint those Lionel 15" cars. I could never do that. A number of years ago I picked up a set of K-Line aluminum 15" NCL cars (with engines), one of my all-time favorite paint schemes. Obviously much easier than painting and decaling a set! I hope you post some photos of your set when you have it completed.

I've got the passenger set, but need to paint some F3 shells to match using light and dark green. What paint mfg and colors did you use? Anyone?

@harmonyards posted:

Your workpiece should be properly abated before any top coats are applied, and this will greatly reduce the risk of lift off of top colors. Your base should be abated before primers are applied, then if working on top of primers, they too should be abated before applying any top coat. Paint will not stick to a smooth, slick surface…..period, ….if you attempt to mask a painted surface that’s not properly prepped, you’re almost guaranteed the dreaded lift off,….below pic is 3 different colors and lettering applied in the above mentioned manner,…note the crisp lines, and bold lettering, and as near factory finish as one can get in a DIY setting,…..

Pat

I am probably the only one, but I don't understand the word "abated" used in this context.   Could you please explain?  Thanks,  NH Joe

I've had the best success with Tamiya tape as well.

But if you are in a pinch and need to use the box store blue or green tape, put it on your shirt first.  Then pull it off and apply to your model.  It removes just enough glue.

It also helps if your previous paint coat is fully dried.

Ron

@New Haven Joe posted:

I am probably the only one, but I don't understand the word "abated" used in this context.   Could you please explain?  Thanks,  NH Joe

Sanded or lightly scratched surface, ….I’m a firm believer in a mechanical bond between layers. Paint applied to a slick surface will almost guaranteed lift off with barely any effort, let alone tape pulling on it ……on plastic model shells, such as freight and passenger cars, gray scotchbrite and a scrub with soap & water is sufficient to prep a surface for new paint,…..an abated surface is one that is lightly scratched, ( in our cases 800 grit or finer) completely deglossed, and ready for top coat,…

Pat

@Lynne Carper posted:

I've got the passenger set, but need to paint some F3 shells to match using light and dark green. What paint mfg and colors did you use? Anyone?

Scalecoat II NP Light Green, #2060 and NP Dark Green #2061 from Minuteman Scale Models.

@VistaDomeScott thanks for the compliment.  I used a dull coat finish when I painted the original four cars and LIONEL PW F-3A and B units 25+ years ago and will do so again.  But man oh man, these four and the baggage car look good to me in gloss SCII finish.

@New Haven Joe posted:

I am probably the only one, but I don't understand the word "abated" used in this context.   Could you please explain?  Thanks,  NH Joe

I read it and thought he meant "abraded."

@breezinup, photos will come.

Latest development is adding large door baggage car to the consist.  The train consisted of only four cars 25+ years ago so it used a combo car.  With the 4 domes being added, it gets a real baggage car.

Note:  That's the re-done 558 at the top of the photo.

Clear coat to be applied tomorrow to the domes.

@Pingman posted:

I read it and thought he meant "abraded."

Indeed it is abraded,…..spell check decided sanding is a hostile act,…😉

Pat

Try drafting tape instead.  Designed to be removed easily.  Been in use by artists and draftsmen for more years than I can count:

Low adhesion:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q...rtists-1202689088%2F

Medium adhesion:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071...rtists-1202689088%2F

John