Operating Instruction Manual for a MTH 20-2030LP

I checked https://mthtrains.com/20-3020-1 (I'm assuming you did too), and it doesn't show a manual as being available.  However, it sounds like you might be having a PS-1 issue - have you tried looking for PS-1 instructions for a different loco?

No, I am not familiar with the various sound systems used throughout the MTH years.  I wouldn't know one from the other. Thanks for checking.  I just want to know how to make the engine go forward, using a Lionel TW transformer. Thanks.

@Russ Dolbear posted:

No, I am not familiar with the various sound systems used throughout the MTH years.  I wouldn't know one from the other. Thanks for checking.  I just want to know how to make the engine go forward, using a Lionel TW transformer. Thanks.

Suggested first step is to find the manual for any PS-1 engine and follow the troubleshooting / reset instructions.  The process for resetting to default is somewhat convoluted - multiple on/off turns at a certain voltage - way too much to put into a post.  IIRC, it includes pressing the bell and whistle buttons (while standing on your head and touching your nose), so I'm not even sure if it's possible with a ZW.  At the very least, you'll need a voltmeter to know if you are hitting the correct voltage.

Protosound operating instructions are common in most of the PS/1 manuals, try this manual, it's the same boards.

https://mthtrains.com/20-3034-1

Thanks John.  This will help,....... I think. An initial reading of the 25 pages or so, indicates a very complicated system of operation, apparently using the MTH controls and transformer.  Neither of which I have.  Trying to set things to my liking will require an understanding of things like, Preset 23, 27, 40 etc., clanks, clinks, PFA (passenger sounds I think) Proto couplers, Squeaking Brakes, Engine Volume, Battery Changing, and something called a DCRU Reverse Unit.  My lord.  All I want to do is get my locomotive to run forward, and it could even stay that way, but I'll have to re-read the correct portions to figure out how. To further complicate things, my tender does not have a volume screw, nor an on off switch.  There is a rectangular hole for one, but no switch. There IS a switch under the trailing truck on the engine, which I think is for the smoke unit, if memory serves me right.  But I thank you just the same.  I now have a much better understanding of what I face to figure out how to make it work, and have printed out all the instructions.

Hi Russ,

One of the "incentives" to moving their product lines to command control (with Lionel to TMCC, and with MTH, to DCS, e.g. PS2) was that it would uncomplicate the situation you're experiencing. PS1 is very complicated, mostly because you only have three buttons, direction and whistle/horn (on traditional transformers) and bell (on newer transformers), and a throttle, to use in configurating and operating a locomotive's advanced features. Hence the need for sequences of button pushes, and corresponding 'clinks' and 'clanks'.

If the previous owner of your piece didn't configure too many features using this method then it should start right up and go using the following steps:

1.) Setup -- With the unit on the track apply track voltage, using the throttle, to a high setting, say 95% of full throttle.

2.) Charge -- Wait for the internal rechargeable battery to charge. If the unit has been sitting for months this may take a couple hours. If it's only been a few days this will be quick. If it's been many years you probably need to install a new battery (the so-called "green" battery from MTH) before following Step 1 above. In a pinch you can use a common 9v alkaline battery, but only temporarily and for only a short period, to see if the unit is functional.

3.) Ready -- Lower the throttle to around 8 VAC. How you determine that you're actually at 8 VAC is up to you. I would recommend using a Volt Ohmmeter (VOM). With classic transformers like a TW or ZW the reading you take will be quite accurate, with modern ones it should be close enough. But you may have success by simply moving the throttle to half (50%), or a quarter of full (25%). Why 8 VAC? It seems to work best with all my PS1 equipment and the suggestion comes from reliable sources. When you get to 8 VAC you should hear a 'woosh' followed by a 'thunk' that kind of sounds like the transmission on an old car dropping into drive when you shift it to 'D'.

4.) Run -- You're now in the first position of the traditional sequence Neutral - Forward - Neutral - Reverse. Cycle the throttle down to zero and back, or push the direction button, and it should begin rolling down the track just like a normal traditional locomotive. If for some reason the previous owner had locked it into one direction, or another, F or R, it won't cycle through the sequence N - F - R - N etc. but will only go one direction. Worse, if it was locked into 'N' it won't go at all without being reset using those button pushes, and clinks and clanks.

At this point as long as you don't shut the throttle off for more that about 30 seconds you'll continue to be in this mode for your entire operating session. If you go to zero volts for more than that time you need to go back to Step 1 above.

Is this ridiculously complex just to get the train to move? Maybe. Does it work? Most of the time, but not always. I can get mine to roll, using this set of steps 9 times out of 10, on average. Not bad, but not perfect either.

Mike

@Mellow Hudson Mike posted:

...

2.) Charge -- Wait for the internal rechargeable battery to charge. If the unit has been sitting for months this may take a couple hours. If it's only been a few days this will be quick. If it's been many years you probably need to install a new battery (the so-called "green" battery from MTH) before following Step 1 above. In a pinch you can use a common 9v alkaline battery, but only temporarily and for only a short period, to see if the unit is functional.

...

Great info in that post, but want to add...

Quite possible that the old battery won't hold a charge.  Strongly suggest replacing the battery with a BCR for long-term reliability.

I had a train that would only go in reverse. This was when I posted and was able to fix the problem. https://ogrforum.com/...nly-moves-in-reverse

Ross I just tried the MTH website and I used20-3020-1 3 Rail and 20-3020-2 for 2 rails and the 3 rail manual is on the website and can be downloaded. I found the MTH numbers used on the website in a MTH Price Guide I picked up in 1999. I had the same issue with a RAILKING J AND HUDSON listed under MT Numbers.

Thank you to both of you.  With Kidney removal surgery forcing me to retire and move out of a big mortgage house into a much smaller (paid off) house, I currently do not have an operating layout.  Extended running sessions are probably a few years away, as I have to eliminate tons of stuff in the 2nd floor of the garage to gain floor space.  Currently I am working off a set of roller bearing test track conditions, as shown in the photo in my original post.  But I do have access to a ZW. When I have a couple hours to digest all this info, and go digging for access to a battery, I shall be eternally grateful for your sage advice.  By the way, the surgery was successful.  I lost a kidney, and adrenal gland, and about 5 lymph nodes, but at age 70, I am in pretty good shape, and glad to be alive to continue to play with trains.  My life's goal is to purchase two Lionel #600 4 wheel pullmans, IN ORANGE.  I have the maroon version and once owned the green. I have more ORANGE Trains than should be legally allowed. Including a Custom decorated Museum  Quality Trolley.  I will attempt to attach a couple photos.  Thanks again, guys.

Thanks Rick.  I'll give it a try using those numbers.

Russ,

Glad to hear that you've come through that ordeal.  Best of luck with the new space.

Keep us up to date on your projects; and good luck with them, and your health.

M.H.M.

Hey RJT!  I got it  But. when I did the MTH website searching under those two numbers, the 20-3020-1 version was the only one to come up, and I could see the Document Search Icon, but it was not active.  The cursor wouldn't activate it.  But you had said YOU FOUND IT, so I figured it had to be in here somewhere, so I did search under J-1e and the same loco came up, but on THIS one, the document search was active!  Ta Da.  I printed off all 36 pages, and my printer ran out of ink on the last two pages to print which was the table of contents and the front cover.  Nothing lost there.  A quick read showed me where the volume screw was on the bottom of the tender, and I got that to work, and I FINALLY GOT IT TO RUN IN FORWARD AND REVERSE ON MY TEST STAND, by turning the throttle AlMOST off, and then back up, it sequenced through neural, reverse, neutral, FORWARD (HURRAY).  I know there is a way to lock it into forward, but right now, I don't want to mess with success.  When I get some track laid again, I will tackle it again.  NOW: CAN ANYONE TELL ME WHERE TO GET A TENDER PART FOR THIS LOCO?  PART NO.    GA-1100074  Front Diecast Tender Steps.  (I found the Parts List for the loco and tender too) .  MHM, Thanks for the Best Wishes.  I am doing pretty good.  No pain, no cancer, got my second Covid Shot today, weight holding steady at 171, and I made it through the winter.  I feel Blessed.