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Not the 120 watts I am looking for, but is the 100 watts is good enough to run two traditional locos at high speed plus fixed voltage to 8 turnout switches?  I have 85 feet of track or so, and lots of track power connections (12).  I will use a separate small transformer for accessories.


And, how rugged/reliable have you found the MTH Z-1000 to be?    Some reviews say the throttle handle seems loose/fragile.

Is there any slow-down of the locos when pressing the whistle or horn buttons?   

I would prefer a brand new MRC AH-501  pure power, but the odds of finding one NIB or very lightly used seem remote.

It appears that I can still get a NIB Z-1000 for around $125.  I doubt my layout will ever get much bigger track-wise, because the 9.5ft by 5ft table top is already covered up with track, with little open space for buildings or towns, and I will never build a yard.

Thanks for all advice and experiences.

Mannyrock

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Manny:

I have two MTH Z1000 transformers on my modest-size, L-shaped layout. One is for track power and wired to the track with a REMOTE COMMANDER receiver and operated via hand-held controller; adequate for running one loco around a 15x19 layout with four lockons for track power distribution. The other Z1000 is designated for 14v to 10 switches; also adequate.

Both "bricks" have a fast-acting circuit breaker, and I've never fried a circuit board because of a derailment. They seem nearly bulletproof.

My opinion: ONE Z1000 may not be adequate for your layout -- for track power for two trains AND 14v for switches. My suggestion: install TWO Z1000 bricks and divide the use like I did.

Carry on ...

Mike Mottler     LCCA 12394

The brick itself is pretty reliable, however the throttle is not in my experience.  I got one with a RTR set about 10 years ago.  I used it for running two modern PS2 locomotives under the Christmas tree for a couple of years.  One year I got it out and the throttle, horn and whistle bells were unresponsive.  I'd say I got 5 years out of it.  I still use the brick to power other stuff on my in-progress layout.

Power-wise the brick was able to run four DCS/PS2/3 locomotives without a sweat when I used it with my DCS TIU and remote.  That said, I had nothing else attached to it.  Each of those engines draws maybe an amp or so.  If by "traditional" locos you mean post-war open frame motors, then it could probably run two of them - but I wouldn't load too much else on it.  Now, if they are like Williams type stuff with DC can motors or RailKing, then you should be fine.  I would just measure the current draw and keep it to 6 amps or less.  I think the breaker is rated at 7A.

Last edited by rplst8
Both "bricks" have a fast-acting circuit breaker, and I've never fried a circuit board because of a derailment. They seem nearly bulletproof.

Define "fast acting"?  The circuit breakers on the Z-1000 brick are standard industry thermal circuit breakers.  Fast is not a term that I would apply to them.  If you want "fast" for a brick, consider the Lionel PowerHouse 180 brick, that's a fast circuit breaker.

Thanks for the info.

Mike, thanks for that.  If I have to buy two, I might as well spend the money,  plus just a little more, to get something much better.

RPLS, you experience with the Z-1000 mirrors some of the other comments I found on the web regarding durability.   People  seemed to have problems right out of the box or after just 4 or 5 years.

I guess the Z-1000 will be of no help to me.  I doubt if anybody is in the business of fixing them.  And, mechanical weaknesses inherent in design really can't be fixed anyway.  :-(

I am only running 1990s and later, dual can motor, diesels, made by Williams, Bachman, and RMT.   (I have about given up on everything else.  :-)  )

Assuming it has dual motors, I MIGHT try a Lionchief Plus NW2 at Christmas, but somehow dread the complexity of it.

Mannyrock

For what it’s worth, in addition to three GW-180’s, I have also been using three Z-1000’s for over 14 years.  Two of the Z-1000’s are used for accessories, and one for running engines.  No problem with the controller for the engines, but one controller for accessories, which doesn’t get used much, seems to “corrode” inside.  Lights flicker as you move the handle.  I take the top off, spray with tuner cleaner, and it works fine again.  I have found the circuit breaker sufficient for protecting the electronic circuits in my engines.  Also, the finish on the controller can be scratched off.  Z-1000 is good, GW-180 is better.

Ron

Mannyrock- I have a Z-750 that I use for my Christmas layout. The controller is fine but the throttle control is a bit unusual since the dial has a very light feel when you move it. It's just different if you are used to post-war transformers. I've only had mine a few years so I can't speak to the durability.

I do not recall any issues with the horn and bell buttons.

Bob

Johnstrains,    If only the KW had a bell/whistle button, I would buy it.  The old ZW doesn't have one either.      The ZW-L has one, but it has a monsterous price and monsterous size.    The new GW would be perfect, . . if only it didn't have a pump handle for a throttle.  :-)

Based on everyone's excellent advice, I think I know what I have to do:

1.  Spend the next 60 days or so looking for a lightly used MRC AH501.

2.  If I can't find one, then suck it up, buy a Z-1000, use it run the engines only, and accept the fact that it will have a strange, light dial throttle, and that unlike the classic Lionel transformers that I grew up with, it is a mass produced, disposable item, that I will probably have to throw away in 4 or 5 years.

3.  Meanwhile, if I ever see an MRC 601 for sale at a bargain price, I will snatch it up.  I have a gut feeling that if one of those starts to go bad, then it can be repaired by someone.

Thanks again,

Mannyrock

@Mannyrock posted:

Johnstrains,    If only the KW had a bell/whistle button, I would buy it.  The old ZW doesn't have one either.      The ZW-L has one, but it has a monsterous price and monsterous size.    The new GW would be perfect, . . if only it didn't have a pump handle for a throttle.  :-)

Based on everyone's excellent advice, I think I know what I have to do:

1.  Spend the next 60 days or so looking for a lightly used MRC AH501.

2.  If I can't find one, then suck it up, buy a Z-1000, use it run the engines only, and accept the fact that it will have a strange, light dial throttle, and that unlike the classic Lionel transformers that I grew up with, it is a mass produced, disposable item, that I will probably have to throw away in 4 or 5 years.

3.  Meanwhile, if I ever see an MRC 601 for sale at a bargain price, I will snatch it up.  I have a gut feeling that if one of those starts to go bad, then it can be repaired by someone.

Thanks again,

Mannyrock

Sounds like a plan. I neglected to mention that I do own a Z1000 that came in a RTR set purchased years ago. As I recall, they stopped that practice shortly after and started including the Z500. With the caveat that it's not my primary transformer (I use a ZW on my Postwar layout)  it's been of good service to me through the years.

@Mannyrock posted:

Johnstrains,    If only the KW had a bell/whistle button, I would buy it.  The old ZW doesn't have one either.      The ZW-L has one, but it has a monsterous price and monsterous size.    The new GW would be perfect, . . if only it didn't have a pump handle for a throttle.  :-)

Based on everyone's excellent advice, I think I know what I have to do:

1.  Spend the next 60 days or so looking for a lightly used MRC AH501.

2.  If I can't find one, then suck it up, buy a Z-1000, use it run the engines only, and accept the fact that it will have a strange, light dial throttle, and that unlike the classic Lionel transformers that I grew up with, it is a mass produced, disposable item, that I will probably have to throw away in 4 or 5 years.

3.  Meanwhile, if I ever see an MRC 601 for sale at a bargain price, I will snatch it up.  I have a gut feeling that if one of those starts to go bad, then it can be repaired by someone.

Thanks again,

Mannyrock

Paint it black and bolt a Hurst shifter to it - problem solved.

FWIW, one of our Forum sponsors, C. Ro, has the Z-1000's for $99.95.

I'd recommend the 125 W Lionel LW ($35-$50 for a good used one) and a Lionel 6-5906 bell activation button ($10 - $20 used) and problem solved. The LW is rugged and has plenty of power. I used a total of 4 of these (phased) to power 4 power districts for over 25 years until i upgraded to 2 180 bricks. To my thinking, next to the ZW, they were the best post war transformer Lionel ever made. Just do some shopping around not expecting others to do your homework for you.

Last edited by modeltrainsparts

Manny

You've received good advice from OGR FORUM hobbyists, and it seems you are now ready to move forward.  I stand corrected about the Z1000 "fast-acting" circuit breaker. It's "fast enough" for me, but GRJ pointed out it is an "ordinary" device.

About sound buttons ...
I have a Lionel industrial switcher with "Lionel Steel" décor but it doesn't have built-in sounds. I added two Lionel sound buttons to the track power circuit to trigger the HORN and BELL sounds contained in a following RAILSOUNDS boxcar. Works great! One of the responders to this thread mentioned that option, and I "second the motion."

However, GRJ's recommendation of MRC transformer seems best solution overall - if you can find one.

Carry on ...

Mike
mottlermike10@gmail.com

Thanks for all advice guys.

Modeltrainsparts, buying an LW plus a lionel activation button was my first thought, but folks have advised me that the button is perhaps not a good solution because the engines will slow down when I push the button.   Maybe I am expecting too much, but I don't want my locos to slow down even a little bit when I activate the horn/bell.  Of course, perhaps some folks thought I was running Postwar engines, which is what I started out with a year ago, but I have switched to the more modern dual can motors.  So, I'm not sure what happens.

Maddock, thanks for the advice.  I know that the ZW-L is an incredibly superior unit.  However, the reason that I won't be going for a ZW-L is that after a year of work, my train layout is about 95% finished, I have managed to do the whole thing for around $1,600.  . That includes four engines, 28 cars, table, track, transformer, track bed, wire, switch outs, . . .the whole thing.  I did this by primarily buying used items that I have learned to repair, used track, sale items, and going to the train store flea market in my neighborhood and rummaging through old boxes once a month.    Generous members of this Board have also helped, by selling me VG+ cars and a BEEP (thanks John!) at bargain prices.

The only thing left for me to do is some structural scenery, and it will be sparse.  Happily, when the flea market train shop goes out to buy a used layout, they take everything (including the painted buildings).  Since nobody  is going to drive all of the way to this rural area to look for little buildings,  it is just put on shelves and price at around $5 to $10.  It sits there for months and months.

So, with my shoe-string approach, spending $800 plus on a transformer would be way way out of my league.  :-)  My collecting and trading expertise really lies in other areas.  :-)

But again,  Thanks to all.

Mannyrock



   

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