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If you are mechanically and electrically adept, you may be able to add an external electrically powered switch machine to your switches. Don't know if this has ever been done, as it is cheaper/easier to replace the switches with powered ones. The Lionel service manual (here) tells how to create insulated blocks to keep trains from running into an incorrectly set switch. The block will stop the train, but cannot throw the switch.

 

Larry

Thanks for your replies.  I might be confused on the model #.  The top near the throw lever says "No. 1022 Switch" but stamped on the underside is "Model 1122 (E)".  They're definitely manual switches.  I was wondering if I could add a spring to convert them to non-derailing but I suspect not.  It sounds like it would be cheaper and easier to replace them with powered switches.

 

Thanks again.

 

 

Originally Posted by ADCX Rob:

You are correct - these are 1022 switches if the bottom plate says 1122(E).  They used the same part.

 

The only way to make them non-derailing is to motorize them and set up trigger sections to activate the switch motors.  It's a rewarding project to take on, and not expensive.

 

[video]

Rob- any advice on where to learn how to motorize them? I'm interested in learning more but haven't found anything searching the forum, and there's nothing on the YouTube page for the video you posted. Thanks!

Originally Posted by Jeremy723:
Rob- any advice on where to learn how to motorize them? I'm interested in learning more but haven't found anything searching the forum, and there's nothing on the YouTube page for the video you posted. Thanks!

Forum member David from Dearborn  is the one who devised & built this modification and made that video. 

 

His construction article on how he did this appeared in the October/November 2012 issue of O GAUGE RAILROADING MAGAZINE.

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