Remember this, as a future layout site?

Great start!  Keep on posting.

Zac

Tom, that looks really nice. Would you mind posting the SCARM file so I can take a closer look? I take it the one section will be removable for entry. Is it going to be a lift-out? I notice there are 4 tracks at different elevations and 2 coming out of a switch, so I'm curious how you plan to handle that. Also, did you use trim screws to attach crossmembers, etc., and do you find they hold well? Any glue or just screws? May I ask where you bought all the hardware online? I'm struggling with building a layout in 2 bays of our 3-car garage. I have an around-the-room design that uses most of space, but it requires a lot of preparation, removable of a workbench/cabinets and shelving units, and then I'd need to work around my ShopSmith, bandsaw, etc., so I'm considering paring it down to use only half the space. Now my wife wants a smaller loop2loop type layout in a corner of the sewing/craft room, so I'll probably change priorities and try to get that done in time for the holidays. That means work on the garage layout will be delayed until next year, makes me wonder if it'll ever get built.

Excellent planning and execution of the plan! 

I recall from the layout planning discussions that your vision of the layout was an interesting one.

Thanks for showing us the layout coming to life!

Thank you all for your great comments...

DOUBLEDAZ:  

Here is my SCARM File.  I trust I attached it correctly.  On a separate layer I built my module grid.

Yes, the 4 suspended tracks will be a wooden multi-level trestle for low weight.  I haven't decided if it will be a lift-out (manual) or raise vertically  on bearing rods with counterweights.  I have all sorts of headroom here, so that would be the ultimate. Three of the tracks will be level and one will be inclined.  Sounds terribly hard but I feel I can handle it.  

As far as the hardware is concerned, go thru e-bay and put in keywords such as "elevator bolts", etc.  I tried to forward my contacts to you but the individual store websites looked much more pricier than dealing directly from e-bay.  I paid less than $1.00 each for the leveling bolts.  Try and find a leveling bolt at a hardware store for under $3.00...  Nuts, bolts and washers were very reasonable.  find these on e-bay too and plan on having spares, as the bulk quantities are the most reasonable.  Oh, and shipping is free too.

Cross members used a combination of 3" brass woodscrews I picked up at our local trash transfer site someone threw away.  There were about 300 of them (all new) and being the miser that I am, couldn't let them go to waste.  All joints were glued with carpenter glue.  All screws were pre-countersunk and pre-drilled.  None of my 3/4" plywood delaminated.

By the way, delivery at HD cost me $20 for the HD truck rental.  Total wood and Homasote cost was $500.  Be sure to watch the thickness of Homasotte, as it varies.  Also, my 2x4's were all 4" shy of 8'.  That didn't hurt me, as I  have 2 differing levels.  1/2" plywood was glued and nailed with finish screws.

Hold well? - Yes, as I am walking on it, but doubt I will try to walk on the river module.

Difficulty - None really, except moving around the 4 x 8 sheets of plywood and Homasote.  I could never have gotten the accuracy if I ripped the plywood on my table saw.  A skill-saw and straight edge is the way to go.  My 3/4 ply was cut to a thickness of 4"  and my chop saw only cuts to 3.5" so I had to finish each cut with a hand saw.   I fussed quite a bit to be sure all the 90 degree angles were 90 degrees and the angle cuts took some time and finesse.

Hardest Part - Laying out the trackwork with proper 1" from Radius to tangent.  I did back off from 45" and 36" radius to 42" and ? because I didn't build transitions into SCARM.

Good luck to you and your craft room and garage projects.

Thanks to all...   Tom

Tom, thanks for the answers to my questions, but I was hoping to get the actual .scarm file, not just the picture of the layout.

I'm also considering ripping sheets of 3/4" plywood, only into 3" widths, but I'd have HD cut it in half lengthwise to make it easier to handle getting it home and on the tablesaw. I plan modules too, so I guess screws and glue would work. I was thinking of using pocket holes too, but that seems like a lot of work for real little benefit.

If someone can advise how to cut and paste the program (not a picture) in SCARM, please advise.

Thanks...   tom

DOUBLEDAX:

Well what do you know?  There it is and I have no idea how I did it.

Thanks...   Tom

Thanks Tom. You uploaded it the same way you attached the photos using the "Add Attachments" menu. The only difference is you pointed to the .scarm file instead of the .bmp or .jpg file and you don't "insert" it into the body of the post.

Tom, I didn't notice looking at the photo, but as I was reviewing the file, I see there is only one way to go between levels. If you come out of the yard going clockwise, the only way to get to the lower level is to back up where the white/yellow tracks meet by the river in the lower left. If you're going clockwise, you can go down easy enough, but then you can't go back up unless you turn the engine or back up. I assume you already know this, just thought I'd point it out in case you didn't. This might be by design and I can see how it can adds some operating interest forcing you to turn engines to go between levels.

DOUBLEDAX:

You are absolutely correct.  I can see from your comments that you really have studied the layout.

My main excuse is space.  I thought long and hard on that prior to deciding just as you guessed that this would cause more engine turning and car shifting.  

The upper deck will house a number of long passenger cars that most likely will stay on the top.

I originally had a 3rd loop but soon experienced the bain of all 2-rail enthusiasts (space).

Also I had originally  planned on 45 and 36 inch radius curves but that has deteriorated to 42 and 32.  But, I have managed some nice easements to help make up for the tighter curves.  I don't own nor plan to own any really long locomotives.  I have brass 0-6-0, Hudson, RS-3, GP-9, SW Switcher, RDC and a Loco Workshop 2-4-4-2.  I also have a scratch built Rail Diesel and a 40T modeled after the Lowville and Beaver River RR from the Adirondacks.  My layout will be loosely modeled after the Boston and Main. New York Central and New Haven.  I grew up at the intersection of the NH and the B&M in Sudbury, Mass.

Thanks...   Tom

Sounds good to me, just didn't want you to overlook it.

Hi Tom, Just wondering if you ever finished your layout?